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100 Years of Rolex

October 5th, 2008

Rolex doesn’t seem to make too much noise about their 100 year anniversary, but Guido and Franca Mondani do! Yet another great book from the famous publisher Mondani is this “100 Years of Rolex“-book, written by himself and his wife.

100 years of Rolex by Guido Mondani

This book covers the Rolex-story (about founder Hans Wilsdorf and the Heiniger-family who are running the Rolex organization since 1963) from 1908 till now, including the introduction of the Rolex Deep Sea-Dweller during the Basel fair of 2008. The book covers all important Rolex watches of the last century by publishing great detailed photographs of these watches, where Mondani also favors Rolex collectors by putting much effort in capturing details of bezels, bracelets, boxes and papers. All texts in this book are in Italian as well as in English.

100 years of Rolex by Guido Mondani

As the pictures above and below indicate, the book has a nice and almost complete overview of watches that were introduced in a certain year. Besides that, the book comes with a smaller booklet with estimates of modern and vintage Rolex wristwatches. Additionally, Rolex dealers (authorized and unauthorized) placed ads in this booklet which might be usefull when you are planning to buy or sell your Rolex timepiece. Our own blog sponsor SubGMT is also listed in this section.

100 years of Rolex by Guido Mondani

This book is limited to 4000 pieces, which makes it even a nicer ‘wannahave‘. Gone is gone I guess and I am more than happy to have my copy. It is a nice addition to Mondani’s ‘Collecting GMT-Master watches’ and ‘Collecting modern and vintage Rolex watches’ books, but certainly interesting when you don’t have either of these books. 100 Years of Rolex covers all watch series produced by Rolex, either vintage or modern and is very up-to-date.

SubGMT sells 100 Years of Rolex (over 340 pages and an extra booklet with collectors price guide) for the special price of 299 Euro (normally 350 Euro)!

Click this link if you are outside The Netherlands. SubGMT is a trusted party for all your (modern and vintage) Rolex purchases.

IWC’s versatility?

October 1st, 2008

Sometimes, a watch has more than one face or ‘look’. It is all in the eye of the beholder ofcourse, but the photos below support this comment really well :)

If you look at your watch from different angles or when being in different locations, it can become a watch with a totally different look. The first photo below show the Ingenieur being this raw, rugged tool watch and the second photo shows this fine shiny sophisticated timepiece that refers to the first GG designs from the mid-1970s. To me, these photos demonstrate that this watch is suited for casual as well as more formal occasions. A Rolex Sea-Dweller (or Milgauss? :)) and Yacht-Master in one so to speak. The photos have been taken by Cinq, visitor of the IWC forum at TimeZone.

IWC Ingenieur 3227-01 Photo taken by Cinq

Ingenieur 3227-01 photo taken by Cinq

GMT-7

September 28th, 2008

Last week we (my gf and I) returned from my vacation in the United States. Going from GMT-7 to GMT+2 (daylight saving time included) resulted in that I still am a bit off-beat. During my holiday, the Rolex GMT-Master proved itself to be very useful when making phonecalls to The Netherlands.

Rolex GMT-Master II ref.16710 in the Grand Canyon

Rolex is also the brand that I spotted the most in the US, both in shops and in the wild :) Especially in the watch shops in Las Vegas, they had large collections of them. One of the stores that impressed me the most was the Tourneau store in Ceasars Palace. Besides having enourmeous displays full of Rolex, they also had Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Cartier, Omega, Tag Heuer and a lot of other brands for sale. The sales lady told me that this was their largest store in the US (I don’t know if Tourneau is also located outside the US). The one thing I didn’t like about Tourneau, is their ‘Certified Pre-Owned’ collection. Their prices are way too high (2995 USD for a used Breitling Aerospace for example) and these watches do not come in their original box and papers. But, according to one of the sales people, it does come with a nice Tourneau certificate. Ahum, as if that tells me anything. ;)

In San Francisco, the city that I liked best during our trip, I bought a copy of Revolution Magazine. I bought a copy in Singapore earlier this year, and I like it a lot. Too bad it isn’t available in Europe (you can get a subscription for a ridicilous price, 200 USD for 4 copies a year) but that has been solved thanks to Ariel Adams. Thanks mate!

Revolution Magazine has great photos (and not the press kit photos you see in most magazines) and on top of that, really interesting in-depth articles I only know from the German watch magazines. I noticed that photoshoots (of ladies in bikini wearing watches that are just exotic as they are) and articles (diving watches) in my US issue of September have been copy/pasted from the issue I had bought in April in Singapore. Anyway, the other articles and the extra magazine that came with it made it all good again.

Oh well, back to work and back to writing watch related articles again. :) Thanks for the comments and e-mails I received during my holiday. I also noticed that during my stay in the US, the number of members of the ‘a Passion for Watches’ LinkedIn Group went over 560 and the discussion feature is being used quite well. If you are not connected yet, make sure you’ll do :)

Just before I went on vacation, I bought this great Omega Speedmaster Professional from 1969. I will enlighten you with some pictures soon :)

Vacation

September 7th, 2008

Just like Seiko Champion Harry, I am on a vacation. I’ll be visiting Los Angelos, San Francisco, Las Vegas etc. Because of the time difference of 9 hours, my GMT-Master II will join me. The rest is safely stored (I hope) at the bank. Although I can’t imagina getting in trouble with customs (when I return) with my Rolex, I will take my Dutch warrantee card to be sure. The stories about Dutch customs are horrifying.

Steve McQueen in Bullit, racing through the Streets of San Francisco

Anyway, I will return in the week of September 22nd. Hopefully back with fresh ideas and great blogging material :) (I hope I can get some Revolution Magazines over there…)

Event: Watch 2008

September 5th, 2008

Watch2008 - THE two day watch fair for the independent and innovative watch companies!

Kasteel Hoogenweerth

Watch2008, the 1st watch fair showcasing independent and innovative watchmakers, will be held on December 6th and 7th at Castle Hoogenweerth in Maastricht, The Netherlands. Visitors will have the unique opportunity to meet and talk to the watchmakers and experience their latest products.

“An event like this, mainly focused on the independent watch brands, is something we lack in the Benelux and maybe even in all of Europe”, says Ernie Romers, director and owner of Watchuseek.com, one of the organizers of Watch2008.

“A fair where pure craftsmanship comes first and the producers can share their knowledge and enthusiasm with true connoisseurs. That’s what Watch2008 is all about!”. In the opinion of the organizers, the glamour and location of Castle Hoogenweerth make it a fitting surrounding for this gathering.

The list of watch brands include: ACE, Aristo Vollmer, Blancier, D.Dornblüth, Cyclos, Fifth Avenue, Limes, Jörg Schauer and Stowa, JS Watch co., TB Buti, Kadloo, Kremke Watch Co., Kudoke, Archimede, MKII Corp., Rainer Nienaber, Pita, Steffen, Thomas Ninchritz, Quadtec, Marcello C, Pierre Junod, Anonimo and Svend Andersen.

There will also be several “round table meetings” on specific subjects like watch seminars and how to recognize counterfeit watches.

Tickets for this unique event are EUR 35.00 including food and beverage. An early bird discount applies until October 1st.

Please visit www.watch2008.nl for updates, links and subscriptions.

Hysek X-Ray Perpertual Calendar

September 5th, 2008

Jorg Hysek, designer of watches and pens for Tag Heuer and Cartier. Hysek also manufactures watches under his own label.

As Hysek writes in their press release of the X-Ray Perpetual Calendar, this watch is a result of traditional watchmaking and high-tech style ‘n’ design. The X-Ray watch is made out of 18ct rose gold (including the folding clasp) and uses rubber for some parts of the watchcase as well.

This watch features a perpetual calendar function and an impressive dial which gives a view on the highly worked movement. Months and bissextile leap year indication at 12 o’clock, date indication at 3 o’clock, day counter at 9 o’clock and second GMT indication at 6 o’clock. An exceptional watch in perfect continuity to Hysek’s style which measures the eternal time.

Hysek X-Ray Perpetual Calendar in 18 carat rose gold

As for the watch’s specifications:

Case dimensions: 51 x 41 x 13 mm
Crystal: Anti-reflection sapphire dial
Water Resistance: 30 meters
Movement: auotmatic movement customized by Hysek, 28800 bph, PR of 42 hours
Strap: Black rubber strap with 18k rose gold H insert
Clasp: Double fold over buckle

URWERK: Black Platinum 103 Hexagon

September 3rd, 2008

A few months ago, I visited Singapore and noticed this incredible piece of art in the display of The Hour Glass shop in the Millenia Walk mall. This watch, an URWERK 103, was an incredible eye-catcher.

Last week I received a presentation of URWERK’s latest creation, the UR103 Hexagon. It also included a technical description of this time piece.

URWERK, founded in 1997 by Felix Baumgartner (watchmaker) and Martin Frei (artist), celebrates each new collection by 10 black watches. This year, URWERK introduces the new black platinum 103 Hexagon. The birth of URWERK’s «Black» limited editions goes back to 1999 with the presentation of a special version of URWERK’s very first watch, - the UR102 – which was clothed in black and called « Night Watch ». The concept was revived in 2006 with the now mythical « Black Bird », a creation with combat aesthetics and a name derived from military aviation. The « Black Shark » followed in 2007.

Today the UR103 « Hexagon » – a limited edition of only 10 pieces – takes its turn under the spotlight, with its black platinum case.

URWERK 103 Hexagon

Four orbiting and rotating satellites display the hours, with each satellite indicating the time in a both analogue and digital fashion as it arcs across the minute chapter.T he four hour-satellites of the UR-103 are crafted in aluminium and are suspended under a grade-2 titanium orbital cross. The complication is mounted on a non-magnetic ARCAP P40 base plate providing superior strength and stability to traditional metals. The hour-satellites complete a full revolution under the orbital cross every four hours. As the satellite approaches the crown position, an internal Geneva cross causes it to undergo a 120 degree rotation on its own axis. This 120 degree rotation positions the next hour for its turn indicating the time at the front of the dial.

UR103 movement

As for the watch’s specifications:

Case: black platinum (PE-CVD treatment)
Dimensions: 50mm x 36mm x 13.5mm
Movement: Calibre 3.03: hand winding; 21,600bph/3Hz; 43 hours power reserve.
Triple base plate in ARCAP P40
Time indicated with satellites controlled by a Geneva Cross
Control Board: Titanium; power reserve indicator; time regulating dials indicating 15 minutes and seconds; precision adjustment screw.
Strap: black alligator leather

Thanks to Yacine Sar of URWERK for documentation. URWERK has an official forum hosted by Horomundi.

Rare Omega Speedmaster Professional

August 26th, 2008

The Omega Speedmaster Professional is the watch that seems to be the back bone of my watch collection and interest in mechanical wrist watches. It is the watch that started the whole madness for me. That’s probably why it is in the header picture of this website anyway :-) I have to admit though, that there are periods that I almost never wear mine and that it gets almost no attention at all. However, with the slightest trigger the whole obsession with this watch start all over again. The latest trigger has been a small GTG with a few long time watch friends. One of the guys was wearing this very rare Speedmaster Professional ref. BA 145.022. He also brought the original box which is a relief “Lunar surface” box which is probably even more rare. Although this watch is not considered to be Omega’s holy grail Speedmaster, it is highly sought after.

In 1969, after the moon landing, Omega created a gold version of the Speedmaster Professional (caliber 861) to commemorate this spectacular event. This watch has been produced in only small numbers (1014 in total), from august 1969 till somewhere in 1972. The first 28 pieces were given to the president of the United States (Richard M. Nixon at the time, who received number 1), the vice-president and the active NASA astronauts. According to Omega’s Journey through Time book, Richard Nixon refused the watch because it was a gift of too high a value. I guess the White House had a Compliance department in 1969 already. :-)

The first 28 pieces had the following inscription in its caseback: “to mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time”. Including the number of the watch and the name of the recipient. The other watches had the “the first watch worn on the moon” text (horizontally) engraved.

Photo by Watch Carefully

During a gala dinner on the 25th of November 1969, at the Hotel Warwick in Houston, approximately 26 pieces were offered to the NASA astronauts. The number 1 and 2 watch, offered to the president and the vice-president (Spiro Agnew), is on display in the Omega Museum since 1999.

Last saturday I had the opportunity to observe one of these 1014 special time pieces, and its original box. Please see the pictures below. This model has the “First watch worn on the Moon” engraving, filled with the maroon color. The first time pieces with this engraving, had a smaller font type and were only engraved (not filled-in).

BA 145.022

BA 145.022

The owner of this watch wants to remain anonymous. Inquiries are not appreciated.

Watch Industry Forum

August 20th, 2008

As written before, Johan and I set-up a website to support the LinkedIn Group ‘a Passion for Watches’.

Not too long ago, Johan and I added a forum, to be able to discuss the watch industry and watch branch. “Another forum”, I hear you say. Indeed, we are aware of that, but this forum has a slightly different approach. This forum is there to discuss the movements (nice choice of words RJ :)) within the watch branch/industry. What happens over at Swatch Group? How do you become employed in the watch branch? And most of all, it should be a forum where people from the watch industry, jewelers and customers meet.

a Passion for Watches

And yes, you have to register to participate. Blogs and forums are unfortunately the victim of spam and spam bots as well. You do not have to be signed-up on LinkedIn, but that is the place to get connected to other watch passionates.

Who is king?

August 16th, 2008

My blog friend Alon Ben-Joseph posted a great article on ‘who’s the king?’

“We all love ranks, lists, competition and knowing who is the best. In the watch industry many players crown themselves as the king of the industry. Consumers always want to own the best watch. But who is actually the king?”

Click the following link to go to the article:
http://watchfreaks.wordpress.com/2008/08/16/whos-the-king/

Don’t forget to bookmark Watch Freaks Blog!

Officine Panerai: Yet Another Panerai Forum

August 13th, 2008

Oh, shoot me. This Panerai Forum is something I set-up with the help of some Panerai enthusiasts. The Dutch Rolex Forum is quite popular, so I wondered if there would be space for a Dutch Panerai Forum as well. Panerai is a brand that I have the famous love - hate relationship with. I had this wonderful PAM 113 and sold it because I thought I could do without. Boy, I was wrong. I really missed the whole Panerai experience.. being a Paneristi, buying and changing Panerai straps once in a while (or too often). So, about a year after I sold it, I ran into this great looking Panerai 000. As good as new. And the enthusiasm was immediately there again. Anyway, as a result, I started the Dutch Panerai Forum. For Flemish and Dutch writing/reading Panerai enthusiasts. So if you are one of those, click and take a look at the forum!

http://www.paneraiforum.nl

PAM87. Photo by Gertjan, paneraiforum.nl regular.
Photo by Gertjan, visitor of the paneraiforum.nl site.

Rolex Milgauss, proven unpopular?

August 10th, 2008

I remember being very enthusiastic about the re-invented Rolex Milgauss watches in 2007. I am a regular visitor of several Rolex forums, and most active on the Dutch Rolex forum, as writing/reading posts in your mother language still works best. It occured to me that only few forum visitors/members have a Rolex Milgauss in their collection (or as their only watch). When I just visited the sales corner of ‘das R-L-X’ forum, I noticed quite a few for sale, including those with the green saphire crystal called Rolex Milgauss GV.

Rolex Milgauss GV

Although the odds were different one year ago, the Milgauss doesn’t seem to be an immediate hit as I expected it would be. The period where prices were over the list price is long gone already, except for the green sapphire model I guess. The regular models (white and black dial) start below 4000 euro. Although I don’t care much about block buster watches, I was clearly wrong about the future of the Rolex Milgauss. If you look at watches as an investment, it might be a good bet anyway. Rolex watches that do no sell very well at this moment, are probably the most sought-after watches in the (far) future. Think former Milgauss, 1960s and 1970s Daytona and (more or less) the Rolex Oyster-Quartz models. That is at least what I hope for with respect to my precious Yacht-Master :) Oh, anyway… for those who have a modern Rolex Milgauss, enjoy your watches!

Rolex Milgauss 116400
Rolex Milgauss 116400, a LNIB for sale at Bernard Watch Co for less than list..

Interesting book on this subject:

Just out of curiosity

August 10th, 2008

Today, I noticed an Omega LED wrist watch on someone’s wrist in an interior store. Now, if I would be in a watch shop or perhaps in a bar or something, I probably asked him more about this watch. Is he a collector? Is this his only watch? How did het get it? What about the history of this watch? Is he aware that he wears something ’special’? Does he have box, papers and the original receipt? You know the drill, these questions need to be answered if you encounter someone with a nice watch.

Omega LED wrist watch, picture taken from the LEDWatch.net website

Now, back at home, I still don’t know anything about this man and his watch. I think I will manage to sleep well, but it would have been nice to interact with someone who has a nice time piece. At least when he was aware of having one ;) I felt it wasn’t the right place to ask, this man was clearly occupied with shopping for interior with his family. What would you do?


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