This news came in yesterday evening, a new Linde Werdelin Oktopus model with a Moonphase Complication. The Oktopus was introduced during BaselWorld 2009 and during my interview with them I was able to fiddle around with it a bit. The bezel with embossed numerals reminded me a bit about my precious Rolex Yacht-Master, and which I therefore really like. This new titanium Oktopus features a solid rose gold bezel, together with the moonphase complication the ultimate luxury diving watch.

If you have a pale skin like me, you know you have to stay away from gold watches. However, a rose gold bezel on a titanium case will suit you fine. It is actually the only possibility for me to wear a gold watch.

Also this time, Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin got help from Svend Andersen (like he did with the SpidoLite SA models) to work on the complicated automatic movement based on Frederic Piguet caliber 1150. The moon disc is made out of Super Luminova, which will make sure it is visible during every time of the day (or night). Svend Andersen built this moonphase complication based on the date feature of the Piguet movement, allowing to show a countdown to the next full moon. The transparent sapphire case back of the Oktopus reveals the Andersen-modified Piguet movement. The titanium watch is water resistant to 888 meters and includes an automatic helium escape valve located on 9 o’clock in the case.

Normally, Linde Werdelin watches are limited to either 22, 44, 88 or 222 pieces each. However, the LW Oktopus is also a bit different in this aspect. It is limited to 29 pieces, connoting to the days before the next full moon. The Oktopus Moonphase Complication will be available for pre-order in September 2010.

And now, for the specifications of this ultimate luxury diving watch:

Size
46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 14mm (h)
Movement
Automatic mechanical Frederic Piguet movement calibre 1150,
Linde Werdelin & Andersen Geneve personalised oscillator
72 hour power reserve / 28 jewels / 28,800 bpm
Moonphase complication by Svend Andersen with luminous photorealistic moon
phases and moonphase countdown, manually adjustable by second crown position
Case
Titanium gr. 5, microbille finish
Screw on case-back with sapphire crystal
Rose gold unidirectional turning bezel with 10 minute markings & Super Luminova
marker at 12 o’clock
3.8mm anti-reflective sapphire crystal
Screw in crown with LW logo
Helium escape valve at 9 o’clock
Dial
Black matt dial
Arabic numerals rose gold plated applied indexes with Super LumiNova
Hands
Rose gold plated, diamond cut rhodium plated with applied Super LumiNova
Water Resistance
888m / 2913 ft
Strap
Black alligator strap with titanium ardillon buckle

The days of Maurice Lacroix being an entry level brand is long gone (click here), especially since the introduction of the Masterpiece collection. During BaselWorld 2010, that is going to be held from March 18 till March 25, Maurice Lacroix will be introducing a number of interesting models.

Most interesting are the two different Phases de Lune timepieces, since a moon phase is a complication that speaks to everyone’s imagination. The Phases de Lune are from different Maurice Lacroix collections, namely that of the Pontos and the Les Classiques.

First, the Les Classiques Phases de Lune Automatique. A classic shaped moonphase timepiece, with a day and month indicator near 12 o’clock, and a very stylish moon disc at 6 o’clock. The date indicator is the fourth hand on the dial, pointing to the day numbers on the dial. The dial is available in silver (as pictured below) or black, the hands are filled with luminova and the 40mm case is available in stainless steel or a 18ct gold/stainless steel combination, where the lunette is made out of 18ct gold. The case has been finished with both polished and brushed parts, giving it an extra edge when the (sun)light is able to play with it.

Maurice Lacroix uses a mechanical automatic movement (caliber ML37) for this Phases de Lune. This self winding movement has a 38 hours powerreserve and shows hours, minutes, seconds, day, date, month and moonphase. Maurice Lacroix uses this caliber in several other moonphase watches from their collection. The finish on this rhodium plated movement is quite nice, with its hand-decorated circular grain. The movement is based on the famous ETA2824-2 movement and uses an add-one module for all extra functionality.

The other Phases de Lune is the one from the Pontos collection and is called Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune, Limited Edition in full. It is significantly different from the Les Classiques Phases de Lune as you can see below, and probably aims more at the watch collector or buyer who loves a classic design with a twist. A fairly big twist.

As you can see, the moonphase disc is located on 4 o’clock, the hours are indicated by a disc, the minutes by a hand (and also the only hand on this watch) and the date disc is at 6 o’clock. Below the moonphase disc you’ll notice that there is another disc, indicating the day/night.

The titanium & sand blasted watch case has a diameter of 45mm and is therefore probably not suited for everyone out there. The movement ticking inside is the Maurice Lacroix caliber ML122, a self winding mechanical movement with a vibration of 28.800bph and a powerreserve of  38 hours. The finish is comparable to the ML37 as discussed above.

This Maurice Lacroix Pontos Décentrique Phases de Lune is limited to 500 pieces world wide. Prices on both models are still unknown.

In Basel, I had the pleasure to meet with Thierry Oulevay (CEO and co-founder of Jean Dunand) and one of his watches, the Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital. This tourbillon watch features a one-minute flying tourbillon that orbits the dial once per hour. Furthermore, it has this cool power reserve indicator in the case band and moon phase on the caseback. You really need to take this watch off your wrist if you are planning to show it off properly.

One of the things that struck me most, was the beauty of the dial and hands. I am not very much into tourbillons, so I focus a bit more on the dial and hands in these cases The sky scraper hands are one of the nicest pair of hands I’d ever seen on a watch.

This time, Jean Dunand pays tribute to the artistry of miniturist painters, who perform an art that can be traced back to the 14th century Persia. Eventually, this form of art was also found on the cases and dials of time pieces. Jean Dunand’s passion for the Orient is recreated today in this miniature line portrait of Confucius, Chinese thinker and social philosopher who lived from 551 BC till 479 BC.

The above picture was taken by myself in 2005 at the Confucius temple in Beijing. This temple was built long after his death, in 1302 to be exact. The temple was in bad condition a few years back, especially compared to a number of other large temples in the city. You can read more about Confucius and Confucian temples by clicking here.

Below, you can see the hand-painted portrait of Confucius on a very thin black onyx dial that has been inserted on top of a gold disk.

Countless hours of manual labour and fifteen kiln firings have been invested in this miniature. Because required precision, a brush with only a few marten hairs is being used for the brushes. Working from the face outwards with the aid of a binocular microscope, the artist applies the colours often repeating a stroke to increase volume that can be appreciated on Confucius’ beard or drawing out the stroke to achieve the nuance and gradation to render the curve of Confucius’ forehead. Each painting session is followed by a stint in a 90-100° C kiln culminating in a final kiln firing of 6-7 hours. The final result, a mere 3/100ths of a millimeter thick, is proof positive that complication and ornamentation, exceptional technology and consummate artistry do indeed produce remarkable results. You can find a number of interesting articles on the Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital Confucius in the Articles section at the Jean Dunand website.

As for the technical specifications of this watch:

The JD Orbital Tourbillon watches have a 110 hour power reserve, which is indicated by a gauge in the side of the case (as can be seen below).

Winding the handwound movement needs to be done by a folding key, located in the caseback at 3 o’clock. The 45mm case has a 15.3mm height and uses two domed non-reflecting sapphire crystals. I wouldn’t try it if I were you, but Jean Dunand claims that this watch is 3ATM water resistant

I don’t remember the price of the Tourbillon Orbital watch I have seen in BaselWorld, but I do remember that it cost a fortune. I guess that doesn’t matter for the watch connoisseur with only limited financial boundaries, these type of watches are for true fans of unique haute horlogerie.

Linde Werdelin is making fame for the last 6 months here at FratelloWatches. Between the lunch I had with Linde Werdelin’s managing director and their marketing manager in London and becoming so enthusiastic about the brand and ordering one myself (a 3-timer with brown dial) sat only a 2 or 3 months. The introduction of the new models I received during my visit to the Linde Werdelin booth at BaselWorld was overwelming, especially after seeing and trying the 3-timer.

Now, a few months after the introduction of their new LW models in BaselWorld, they not only started distributing the new SpidoLite models (with funky looking blue gold rotors) but LW also unveiled the new Hard Black DLC II watches. As I suggested before, that Linde Werdelin watches would be the perfect companion for James Bond’s adventures, this new Hard Black DLC II would suit him best probably.

The way James Bond solves his problems as a secret service agent, his watch should better be scratch proof! The watch case of the Linde Werdelin Hard Black DLC II is three times harder than stainless steel and second to diamond in terms of hardness. How is this possible? Well, before the case undergoes a blast of 1/1000th of a millimeter of carbon to create the DLC coating, the watch case is being prepared in such a way that the applied DLC coating does even a better job making the watch case coating tougher than ever.

Leo Houlding, British rock climber and base jumper, has been putting the first Hard Black DLC watch to the test during his climbing of the Riglos (Spain) and in Yosemite (US). Friend of the show, Kristian Haagen, also has one of the first Hard Black DLC’s and is very excited about this time piece.

I have to admit that the Hard Black DLC II reminds me a bit about AP’s Royal Oak Offshore models with the heavily stitched straps and bright dial colors, but the case design is definitely different (although I like both) and I don’t think they necessarily bite eachother.

This 46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 12mm (h) watch is being powered by an ETA 2892-A2 movement (which doesn’t need any further introduction I’ll assume). The watches comes on a black leather alligator strap and the clip-on instruments called The Reef and The Rock will perfectly go together with this watch of course.

This Euro 4920,- watch will be produced in a limited number of 88 pieces and is now available at LindeWerdelin.com for pre-order.