Introduced during BaselWorld 2009, the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200m (ref. 224.30.55.21.01.001) is slowly hitting the stores and becomes available for the large public. This remake of the original Omega Seamaster Professional 600m/2000ft that was introduced in 1971 (after 4 years of extensive test work) is – in my humble opinion – one of the best that Omega did so far. Remakes are dangerous, collectors are most of the time insulted by them because there is only little left of the original details, and buyers of modern watches often don’t get all the fuzz and don’t like the old-fashioned design. This Ploprof 1200m is probably pleasing both groups.

The Seamaster PloProf, with its impressive dimensions of 55m x 48mm x 17.5mm, got its name from the French term PLOngeur PROFessionnel as the team of developers of the original 1971 Seamaster Ploprof were French speaking. One of the nice characteristics of this watch is that it uses an in-house movement, just as the original Ploprof did in 1971 (caliber 1002). The movement, caliber 8500, is an automatic mechanical movement with a co-axial escapement and a 60 hour power reserve. It is exactly the same movement as used in the Omega DeVille Hour Vision.

The button on top of the watch case, that used to be red (plastic), is now orange. The diving bezel can only be turned when you press this button, this way, the bezel is always securely locked during your diving session(s). The big bezel and the large button are very easy to operate due to the size of them. I remember divers complaining about the (Bond) Seamaster Professional 2531.80, that the diving bezel was not very easy to grasp.

The crown protecting mechanism is essentially the same as the original 1971 600 meter diver, you have to unscrew the crown guard before being able to wind the watch and set the time and date. The difference is that the crown guard of the  current Ploprof 1200m stays in one piece instead of only unscrewing the top of the crown guard of the Ploprof 600m.

Another optical difference is the case back. Where the original case back has a striped relief to protect the watch against moving around on your wrist or on your diving suit, the new Ploprof 1200m has only a small surface covered with this relief and the center part if taken by the famous Seahorse logo that belongs to the Omega Seamaster (and Speedmaster) family. It also tells you that you have a caliber 8500 ticking inside which has the co-axial escapement, making sure that the movement does not need an expensive service every 3 – 5 years. All you need to do is bring it to the Omega dealer or a independent watchmaker that replaces the gaskets and is able to test your watch on water resistance.

As with all other Omega watches, Super Luminova is being used to illuminate the hour markers and hands. Furthermore, the bezel will be readable as well in the dark, as the numerals are lumed up as well. I actually don’t know if this will also be useful below the surface, but I assume Omega has thought this through.

If I have to sum it up, it is a very handsome diving watch, staying true to the original Seamaster Professional Ploprof 600 of 1971. With a price tag of 6140 Euro / 8300 USD (including the stainless steel mesh bracelet), it is an expensive watch. Is it worth it? Sure. I’d rather go with this one, than with the Rolex DeepSea Sea-Dweller for example. The Omega Seamaster Professional Ploprof 1200m has a lesser water resistancy, but is just as cool when it comes to the cult factor and corresponding looks. Remember that there is probably room to bargain as well. I also find the caliber 8500 movement to be very interesting, at least as interesting as the proven Rolex caliber 3135 (which is also present in Date-Just, Yacht-Master and Submariner models).

The price of an average conditioned vintage Ploprof 600 and a brand new Ploprof 1200 is not very different. However, if you take the possible discount on a new Ploprof into account and the premium price you have to pay for a mint condition vintage example (including box and papers) it is still serious money you have to additionally pay for a vintage example. Up to you, of course.

Thanks to Dimer of Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam for the incredible nice photographs, specially taken for this review at FratelloWatches. If you are an Omega Seamaster Pro PloProf fan, make sure to check-out http://www.ploprof.com/. A website dedicated to this diving monster, both old & new.

Linde Werdelin’s 3-Timer is almost ready for production. Since the introduction during BaselWorld last March, the 3-Timer probably has become – together with the SpidoLite – their most popular model of the collection.

With only a limited run of 22 timepieces for the brown dial version, this is probably going to be an instant hit. I have ordered one after seeing it during BaselWorld 2009, and opted for the brown dial version right a way. About a week ago, I received Linde Werdelin’s prototype brown dial watch and will share some of my experiences and opinions with you.

Since this is a prototype watch, I don’t want to write a full review yet. Anyhows, below you’ll find some of the things that (I believe) really sets this watch apart.

The eye for detail by Linde Werdelin is superb. As you can see on the photo above, the numerals in the bezel are in the same brown color as the dial. At first I couldn’t believe that this was true, and had to do a double check with a loupe. The photograph clearly shows the brown color, but when there is little or no good light around, it is quite hard to detect.

The same goes for the date wheel. A matching color has been used for this part as well. I cannot understand that there are still watch brands who use the standard white date wheel with black printing. Another cool detail is that the brown squares (which aren’t really squares) are not evenly brown. The sides of the ‘nobs’ are a few shades lighter, this creates a very impressive dial, that reminded me of a tortoise-shell.

The strap of this watch is a so-called Tracked Calf strap. I have seen similar straps before, for Panerai watches, and they were called Riva straps because the pattern is reminding us of the famous mahogany Riva decks. So, I will stick to Riva strap as well I have to admit that I never got so much comments on a watch before, and especially on the strap. It really makes the watch stand out.

The prototype watch that I have came on a LW signed buckle. Folding clasps are also available, but I do not fancy folding clasps as they appear to either stick into the back of your wrist or make the strap a bit too ‘thick’ on the back of your wrist.

One of the other cool things about this watch is the design of the case. First of all, the edges of the case are really sharp. The polished and brushed parts really play with the (sun)light, as similar case designs do as well (think AP Royal Oak). The large hexagonal decorative screws give the watch a bit of an industrial look, which I happen to like Same goes for the bezel, besides the brown numerals, the bezel consists of a polished and brushed part, as you can see above.

The Linde Werdelin case design reminds us of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series, but what I only discovered after wearing the watch for a day or so….  the watch case also reminds me of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Look at the ‘ears’ of the watch, not entirely Nautilus, but it does remind me of one. The sides of the watch also have a function, namely that of clamping The Reef or The Rock instruments to the watch. Now, I am not an avid rock climber or diver, but at least I know it is possible to attach one of these neat little computers to the watch. Just in case.

As for how it wears… it is certainly bigger than any of the other watches I currently have in my collection, including an IWC Ingenieur 3227 (42.5mm). However, as you can see two pictures up, it still fits under my cuffs. It actually wears quite comfortable, even with the stiff Riva strap. The case back of the watch is quite flat, and the lugs are positioned under a slight angle, to fit your wrist better.The luminous stuff on the dial (I assume it is Luminova) really works well in the dark, also even after a short moment of exposure to the sunlight.

I didn’t check the watch for its accuracy, but will do so with my own brown 3-Timer of course. I think it is a bit unfair to put a prototype watch on a Witschi device, as I don’t think this watch is about the movement. Although the mechanical automatic movement has an extra timezone, the movement is not the most important factor of this watch. However, I am confident that the used ETA 2893-A2 (derived from the famous 2892-A2) is able to do the job right, as it does for a number of other models and brands as well.

Any negative points? So far so good I think… the design is very specific and will not be to everyone’s liking (one can see this as a plus!), perhaps the price of 4800 Euro is a bit on the edge for an ETA powered watch, but then again.. it is not only about the movement..  I think 4800 Euro (4080 Euro for the black dial model, limited to 222 pieces and without Tracked Calf strap) gives you a watch with a unique case design that really stands out and which makes it possible to upgrade it with one of their neat little wrist computers (The Reef and The Rock). And again, I was really amazed by the fact that this watch is so comfortable on the wrist despite the size of the case. To me, it is also important that I can wear the same watch either in my spare time or at the office (with a suit). This watch easily can do both.

As they say in German, this watch is ‘Der Hammer’. This prototype makes me want my number ‘13′ brown dial watch even more….

Linde Werdelin is making fame for the last 6 months here at FratelloWatches. Between the lunch I had with Linde Werdelin’s managing director and their marketing manager in London and becoming so enthusiastic about the brand and ordering one myself (a 3-timer with brown dial) sat only a 2 or 3 months. The introduction of the new models I received during my visit to the Linde Werdelin booth at BaselWorld was overwelming, especially after seeing and trying the 3-timer.

Now, a few months after the introduction of their new LW models in BaselWorld, they not only started distributing the new SpidoLite models (with funky looking blue gold rotors) but LW also unveiled the new Hard Black DLC II watches. As I suggested before, that Linde Werdelin watches would be the perfect companion for James Bond’s adventures, this new Hard Black DLC II would suit him best probably.

The way James Bond solves his problems as a secret service agent, his watch should better be scratch proof! The watch case of the Linde Werdelin Hard Black DLC II is three times harder than stainless steel and second to diamond in terms of hardness. How is this possible? Well, before the case undergoes a blast of 1/1000th of a millimeter of carbon to create the DLC coating, the watch case is being prepared in such a way that the applied DLC coating does even a better job making the watch case coating tougher than ever.

Leo Houlding, British rock climber and base jumper, has been putting the first Hard Black DLC watch to the test during his climbing of the Riglos (Spain) and in Yosemite (US). Friend of the show, Kristian Haagen, also has one of the first Hard Black DLC’s and is very excited about this time piece.

I have to admit that the Hard Black DLC II reminds me a bit about AP’s Royal Oak Offshore models with the heavily stitched straps and bright dial colors, but the case design is definitely different (although I like both) and I don’t think they necessarily bite eachother.

This 46mm (w) by 49mm (l) by 12mm (h) watch is being powered by an ETA 2892-A2 movement (which doesn’t need any further introduction I’ll assume). The watches comes on a black leather alligator strap and the clip-on instruments called The Reef and The Rock will perfectly go together with this watch of course.

This Euro 4920,- watch will be produced in a limited number of 88 pieces and is now available at LindeWerdelin.com for pre-order.