Glycine (founded in 1914) introduced a multiple time zone watch in 1953, the Glycine Airman. These watches were meant to be for travellers and pilots that needed a watch that enabled them to read two different time zones. Through all these years, the Airman watch was never absent from the Glycine collection, but it changed a bit every once in a while. Purists will swear by the original vintage Airman model (nicked ‘Old Airman’) that was in production from 1953 till 1973. This model was embraced by the military (chopper) pilots during the Vietnam war with its useful second time zone and AM/PM indicator. These first models had a Felsa caliber 692 movement and was succeeded in 1960 by an A.Schild movement.

Picture courtesy of Ron Engels.

Above a picture of this first batch of Glycine Airman watches, a 1960s model. Now, in 2010, Glycine introduces a successor that comes very close to these first ‘Old Airman’ models, the Airman Base 22. Base stands for air-base or a military air field and the 22 stands for the 22nd generation of Airman watches, which this watch is. During my stay in Basel, Frank and I visited the Glycine booth and had a talk with Katherina Brechbuehler, CEO of Glycine Watch SA. She told us that this watch was something collectors of Airman watches have been longing for ever since the original Airman was succeeded by more modern versions.

The Airman Base 22 (ref. 3887) will be available in three versions. The basic version that resemblances the model pictured above, second is a GA-version that allows the owner to change the time zone on the main hour hand without having to hack the movement as home time is indicated by the secondary hour hand. This watch is capable of displaying three time zones.

The Glycine Airman GA version. Photo courtesy of Glycine.

Third version is a GMT version with 3 time zones and red GMT hand. Just like the GA version, it is capable of showing three time zones, but the movement will stop (non-hack) when setting the hour hand.

Glycine Airman GMT version with 3 time zones. Photo courtesy of Glycine.

The most interesting model to me is the purist’s version, the one that resemblance the most with the original with a 24 hour display and two time zones. Glycine introduces these models in both black dial and white dial version. Although black dials seems to be more popular, the white dial version is a tribute to the first Airman ever, which actually had a white dial. I was able to fiddle around with the Base 22 normal 24h version and I was truely impressed by this time piece. These timepieces have a price tag of 1800 CHF / 1260 Euro (add 100 CHF for a stainless steel bracelet) which makes them even more interesting in my opinion. With all the +10.000 Euro watches introduced during BaselWorld 2010 with a questionable quality and a made-up story to create a cult or hype around them, it is very refreshing that a true cult watch like the Glycine Airman Base 22 has a normal price tag.

The tan soft leather calf strap with the embossed Airman logo was amazingly soft and reminded me about the cool vintage Panerai straps you often see. The 42mm watch case wears actually very comfortable, even with normal sized wrists, this is probably because the lugs are shaped downwards and the height of the watch is only 11.2mm. As you can see below, the white dial version looks terrific as well although white may not be the pick for everybody.

The movement inside is an ETA2893-2, based on the famous ETA2892-A2 but with an extra time zone feature. This movement has been used in a lot of other watches as well, such as the (out of production) Omega Seamaster Professional GMT (also both available in white and black dial) and last year’s introduced Linde Werdelin 3-Timer. The difference between the 3-Timer and the Airman for example, is that with the 3-Timer you can’t set the normal hour hand separately from the minute hand to a different time zone and only use the 24-hour hand to another time zone. Watch collectors tend to call this a so called Office GMT watch instead of a traveller’s GMT watch. The Airman is capable of setting the regular hour hand to a different time zone (since this is the 24-hour hand), using the other one for home time.

Is there nothing negative to say about the Glycine Airman Base 22 ref.3887? Well, actually there isn’t and especially at this price level, if you want a traveller’s watch and don’t mind reading a 24-hour dial, this is your only logical option in my opinion. The finish on the case is very nice, with both polished and brushed parts, the ETA movement is sturdy and has proven itself over time. I would definitely pick the tan leather strap and a black dial, since this combination really makes the dial stand out and gives the watch a bit of a vintage look. The cult status of this watch is also amazing and just recently a book has been published on the Airman by subject matter expert and fellow Dutchman Andrr Stikkers. A 132 page book filled with useful information about the history of the Airman, the Glycine Airman collection over the years and how to identify the fake models that are being offered. This book can be ordered for 37CHF (+/- 25 Euro) at the official Glycine website.

Although I blew my budget for watches already this year, an Airman Base 22 will be a serious option if I can free some extra money

Yesterday, I published an article on MotoringExposure about buying watches under 1000 USD. There are a lot of offers, but which one satisfies the watchfreak?

Browsing the internet and going through several annual catalogues, I came up with the Glycine Incursore ‘Black Jack’, the Sinn 656 and the Tissot PRS516 Automatic Chronograph. All three very different watches, but are all ‘serious’ timepieces under 1000 USD and follow my own 5 defined rules for this quest:

1. It should be a (respected) Swiss or German brand
2. A mechanical movement (Swiss/German origin), ETA2824 or ETA6498 for example
3. No plastic parts on the outside (excludes Swatch for example)
4. Stainless steel casing
5. Sapphire crystal

Of course, there are numerous great alternatives, but?Ǭ�I had to make choices

Please read the article by clicking here

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The successor of the first WATCH event (in 2008) has been held in the weekend of the 14th and 15th of December 2009. Ernie Romers of WatchUseek and Marcel Mathijssen of WATCH Experience organized the second edition of this great event at the same location as in 2008, castle De Hoogenweerth in Maastricht. The line up of exhibitors was at least as impressive as in 2008, including:

Anonimo, Archimede, Arctos, Aristo, Azimuth, Benzinger, Blancier, Christiaan van der Klaauw, Defakto, D. Dornbl?ɬ�th & Sohn, Favre-Leuba, Genesis, Glycine, Limes, Linde Werdelin, LIP, Meistersinger, Montres de Luxe Milano, Nomos Glash?ɬ�tte, PELLIKAAN timing, Rainer Nienaber, R.O.1 Roland Oostwegel, Steffen, Stowa, Tempvs Compvtare, Van Ree and Vollmer.

The organization of this event aimed at the small independent watchmakers, and I am happy to note that some of them aren’t even Swiss or German. The list includes Dutch, Belgian and French watchmakers as well. These brands will not immediately ring a bell by the average watch-Joe, but are nevertheless interesting to give some attention if you are a watch enthusiast (of whatever kind).

As you can see, castle De Hoogenweerth is top of the bill for these kind of events. One of the sponsors (Biermans, dealer of Alfa Romeo, Fiat and Lancia cars) made sure you couldn’t miss their presence when entering the WATCH 2009 event.

Just before opening, a quick shot was made of one of the exhibition spaces in the castle. This part was filled with watches from Benzinger, Blancier, Archimede, D.Dornbl?ɬ�th & Sohn, Glycine, Favre Leuba and Linde Werdelin.

Not much later… all the booths are immediately crowded with interested watch enthusiasts.

On the watchmaker’s bench of Blancier I found this tourbillon prototype. The dial doesn’t reveal the tourbillon complication..

Here is a another crowded picture of the same groundfloor space, taken from the other side. Here you see the D.Dornbl?ɬ�th & Sohn team showing their watches to visitors.

Jorg Schauer showing off to Jochen Benzinger how to use the saw correctly.

Mrs. Benzinger at work…

On the first floor there was – besides a professional barista, a ladies luxury corner, Arctos and Van Ree watches – the Anonimo booth. Here you see Bernard Werk of WATCHING magazine in conversation with the Anonimo representative David Cypers of BENELUX.

Benard Werk showing the Anonimo Nautilo Steel Nautilo Bronze, made out of.. yes.. bronze. The sand-blasted and satinated watch case and bezel are manufactured in a special bronze alloy defined as UNI5275. Alloy UNI5275 belongs to a group of alloys (bronze-aluminium-iron-nickel) employed in hi-tech and high mechanical resistance ad anti-corrosion naval construction, like high performances propellers, propellers pitches, torpedoes flanges. Polished and satinated AISI 316 plus stainless steel back cover.

Time for a decent cappuccino from the barista coffee bar. Superb!

Back to the ground floor..?Ǭ� Aristo and Vollmer had a booth in the right wing of castle De Hoogenweerth. Aristo watches are being displayed, together with the mechanical movements used.

Another interesting booth was that of Tempvs Compvtare, Montres de Milano, LIP and Azimuth. In the picture above you see Nicolas Jeanson explaining his Tempvs Compvtare concept and prototype watch to visitors. Nicolas Jeanson is very passionate about the environment and watches. His Tempvs Compvtare watch had this almost organic shape, influenced by the hammerhead sharks.?Ǭ� The watch will be delivered on a NATO-strap, to be as environmental friendly as possible.

Above you see a close-up of the Tempvs Compvtare. The luminova material is embedded in the bezel, as well as in the pushers and crown (not shown on this picture).

A wrist shot, thanks to Bernard Werk.

Azimuth was represented by Dave van Dorst. The Mr. Roboto watch surely attracts attention.

A close-up on Mr. Roboto. The crown is surely a nice mechanical robot detail

Limes was until recently fairly unknown.. perhaps because they primarily focussed on making watch cases for others. Since some time, their own line of watches becomes more and more known (and popular). Above is their Limes Full Calendar watch, based on ETA/Valjoux 7751 movement.

Just like in 2008, Rainer Nienaber from Nienaber B?ɬ�nde was sporting very colourful sneakers. And very nice timepieces ofcourse! In the photograph above, Rainer Nienaber is presenting (for the first?Ǭ� time) the ANTERO “The purist” wristwatch.

Straight from Antwerp, Mr and Mrs Steffen demonstrating their Leonardo, Julius and Galileo watches.

Nomos Glash?ɬ�tte, presented by Time Company (who also distributes Meistersinger in The Netherlands), had its Z?ɬ�rich model on display. This 39.7mm (which is quite large for Nomos) featuring an in-house movement and is available with or without a date-window.

Christiaan van der Klaauw at his booth during the WATCH 2009. The impressive line-up of watches includes the…

Christiaan van der Klaauw Tourbillon!

Hessel Ruijgh of Friederichs represented Glycine, Favre-Leuba and Linde Werdelin. Above you see a close-up of the Linde Werdelin SpidoLite SA.

Lecturers were given by Michael Clerizo of Masters of Contemporary Watchmaking and Till Lotterman of Blancier. Above you see Michael Clerizo, explaining some of the world’s most impressive watches made by independent master watchmakers.

Between all the visits, there was time and space to get some drinks and share some experiences and feelings about watches we’ve seen and people we’ve talked to. In the blue sweater (and white sneakers), yours truly

And last but not least, the ladies have not been forgotten with the Ladies Luxury Corner. The space was filled with handmade shoes, bags, hats and interior accessories so there was no reason to leave your wife or girlfriend at home.

Photocredits by Ernie Romers and myself.

For more pictures (taken by Ernie Romers), visit this link.

To summarize the event, it was a superb organized watch event for watch enthusiasts and for people who appreciate the finer things in life, such as watches. Ernie and Marcel and the whole WATCH 2009 crew deserve a big thumbs up |> for all the hard work done. Also, this event wouldn’t be the same when the exhibitors weren’t as enthusiastic as they were. I have rarely seen another event that did not get one single critical note. WATCH 2009 was a true success and I hope that 2010 will bring us another one, just as good!