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Posts Tagged ‘Haute Horlogerie’

MB&F - More than meets the eye

Friday, November 21st, 2008

The Horological Machine No.3 has been introduced by Maximilian Büsser & Friends. This time, MB&F were able to make their customers choose between two watches. Two watches have been introduced, by the names of Sidewinder and Starcruiser. And when I look at them, I think these names are well chosen. I am still pondering whether these timepieces remind me of Starwars or of one of my favorite childhood cartoons, Transformers (More then meets the eye).

Horological Machine No3

The 304 component movement in these timepieces is a three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor. It has a Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear and ticks at 28,800 bph. The 22k rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor can be seen at the picture below.

And now for something completely different… the movie credits:

Concept: Maximilian Büsser/MB&F
Product Design: Eric Giroud – Eric Giroud Design Studio
Technical and Production Management: Serge Kriknoff/MB&F
Movement Development: Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor, Nicolas Stalder/Agenhor
Movement manufacturing: Georges Auer/Mecawatch, Salvatore Ferrarotto/APR Quality
Ceramic ball bearings: Patrice Parietti/MPS
Movement assemblage: Didier Dumas/MB&F, Gilles Dalloz/Agenhor
Case and buckle construction and production: Philippe Marti, Dominique Mainier and Stéphane Lhomme of G.F.Châtelain

Sapphire cones: Sébastien Sangsue and Grégory Esseric/Sebal, Peter Bloesch/Bloesch
Dials: François Bernhard and Denis Parel of Nateber
Hands: Pierre Chillier, Isabelle Chillier and Félix Celetta of Fiedler
Strap: Olivier Purnot/Camille Fournet
Presentation case: Frédéric Legendre/Lekoni, Isabelle Vaudaux/Vaudaux

Communication:

Graphic Design - Alban Thomas and Gérald Moulière of GVA Studio
Product Photography - Maarten van der Ende
Display Architecture - Frédéric Legendre/Lekoni
Portrait Photography - Régis Golay/Federal
Webmasters - Stéphane Balet and Guillaume Schmitz of Sumo Interactive
Texts - Ian Skellern
Project Manager - Estelle Tonelli/MB&F

Visit www.mbandf.com for all the detailed information you didn’t find here. Delivery of the first HM3 pieces will start March/April 2009, and MB&F expects to deliver approximately 25 pieces of each reference over the following 12 months.

Maitres du Temps, Chapter One.

Tuesday, October 28th, 2008

Chapter One by Maitres du Temps

More and more haute horlogerie brands are demonstrating their haute-ness to make sure that you know how to be different from other fortunate watch collectors. Although I would feel very frightened with an expensive haute horlogerie timepiece on my wrist, there are probably enough fortunate people that don’t. During my trip to Singapore earlier this year, I have seen a number of haute horlogerie timepieces that really struck me. I also wondered why we didn’t have these timepieces closer at home, in The Netherlands, Benelux or even the rest of Europe. But that thought crossed my mind for only a few seconds. North-America, Asia, Russia and only some parts of Europe is where the money ‘is at‘. Or at least to be spend on watches. Not here.

That’s too bad, because I would really love to see the Chapter One watch, made by three master watchmakers for a brand new player on the market, called Maitres du Temps. These three master watchmakers are Christophe Claret, Roger Dubuis, and Peter Speake-Marin. I have to admit that I only knew about Roger Dubuis before and heard about Peter Speake-Marin. However, a press release of 8 pages (text!) contained a nice introduction of all three of the master watchmakers and about Steven Holtzman, owner of Maitres du Temps.

These three master watchmakers have been carefully put together by Maitres du Temps. As Steven Holtzman said in an interview with the European Luxury Blog, “Every one of the three watchmakers has a particular skill. Mr. Claret has the capacity and ability to create a watch and come up with solutions. Mr. Dubuis’ traditional perspective is from the old school of Geneva watchmaking, and utilizing his traditional watchmaking experience meant we were able to blend different views. Mr. Speake-Marin’s ability to set up and manage the process, bringing us in contact with the right suppliers and helping us with the decisions, was a natural fit. That we were able to bring the three watchmakers together was like a dream for us.” The complete interview can be read at the European Luxury Blog, who also hold the copyrights of the interview.

Maitres du Temps team, Peter Speake-Marin, Roger Dubuis, Christophe Claret and Steven Holtzman
Pictured left to right: Mr. Peter Speake-Marin, Mr. Roger Dubuis, Mr. Christophe Claret, and Mr. Steven Holtzman.

The philosophy of Maîtres du Temps is symbolized by a tree, with each branch representing a fresh opportunity to work with new masters, another collaboration, a future project. And as the branches intertwine and the tree bears fruit, so a new timepiece is brought to life. This philosophy (or tree-symbol) means we can expect some more horological wonders in the future, created by other (or in different combinations) master watchmakers. Actually, the Maitres du Temps website already mentions that Chapter Two is being launched in 2009! Great!

As you can see in the picture at the top of this article and the blow-up picture below, the first piece from Maîtres du Temps is, a combination of complications with tourbillon, mono-pusher chronograph, retrograde date, retrograde GMT, and two rolling bars at 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock, indicating the day of the week and phase of the moon, respectively. The movement (caliber SHC02) of this watch consists of 558 components and the case of the watch (18ct rosé gold, 18ct white gold or titanium) consists of 108 components. An overview of all technical specifications of this watch can be found here.

Maitres du Temps, Chapter One

The Chapter One will be available in only a few carefully selected boutiques, so please keep an eye on the website for these places if you want to catch a glimp of this shiny beauty. There will only be 50 pieces of the Chapter One and the list price will be around 400.000 USD (excluding VAT). You are probably not in the banking business if you are currently on the look-out for a piece du haute horlogerie from Maitres du Temps. ;-)

Jokes aside: myself and probably most readers would buy a cool German or Italian sportscar (or a home) for this amount of money and a nice Rolex or Audemars Piguet on the side to go with it, but for the wealthy collector with a nose for haute horlogerie, the Chapter One is undoubtly the way to express this. It definately sets you apart from other fortunate watch collectors with Patek Philippes or Vacheron Constantins stuffed with neat complications.

Let me show you this beautiful timepiece once more:

Chapter One, Maitres du Temps

Thanks to Sylvia Gelton, Mary Beth Tomko and Steven Holtzman for providing me with all the Chapter One information. All pictures are copyrighted by Maitres du Temps.


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