About two weeks ago, I spoke to Dimer (friend of the show and eCommerce Manager at AceJewelers) and he showed me his recently acquired IWC Ingenieur from their Vintage collection (as shown below). Since I have a weak spot for the Ingenieur series, I tried this Vintage Collection Ingenieur a couple of times already and am very enthusiastic about it. So it is bound to happen that there will be one in my collection at some point.

Anyhows, Dimer told me that he did some research on the web about the true source of inspiration for this Vintage Collection Ingenieur. It seems like IWC is directing us towards the wrong watch in their media campaign. In their media campaign, IWC refers to their first line-up of Ingenieur watches in the mid-1950s. The IWC Ingenieur ref.666 AD from 1955 to be more precise, which shows us that at least they’re not very superstitious towards the use of certain combinations of numbers. The 1955 model is referring to, is shown below.

This fairly large time piece – for that era – of 36.5mm had this new winding system by the name of one of their directors, Albert Pellaton. This new winding system was especially useful for watch makers, who now could simply disconnect the automatic winding system and the barrel of the watch to do repairs on the main spring or escapement, without removing the winding system in total. Also, the Pellaton winding system used an innovative way to make the movement as shock proof as possible, by using this flexible (winding)rotor bridge. This Pellaton winding system is still present in a number of IWC watches, including the current line-up of Ingenieur models. Below, you see a close-up of the current caliber 80110 movement that has this shock proof Pellaton winding system.

In 2008, IWC introduced the Vintage Collection in order to celebrate their 140th anniversary. One of the watches in this collection was the Ingenieur as you can see in the Dimer’s excellent photograph above.

As you can see, the photograph of Dimer and the vintage IWC catalogue image above do not match that well. Although the hands, case design and ‘Ingenieur’ print on the dial remind us of the vintage model, there are quite some differences to observe. What about the hour markers and metal applied frame of the date window? The color of the dial and the pie-pan shape of the vintage model are also quite different from the new Vintage Collection Ingenieur. All-in-all, a nice source of inspiration, but one can hardly speak of a replica or proper re-edition. It’s more like the current Rolex Milgauss versus the vintage Rolex Milgauss 1019 models, to name a direct competitor of a watch with a weak iron inner case.

After strawling the web for more similar Ingenieur models from the years long gone, Dimer found this 1966 Ingenieur which is more like the new Vintage Collection Ingenieur. This model, with caliber 8531 movement that also includes the Pellaton winding system of course, is a much better fit and should have been used as IWC’s true source of inspiration for their 2008 novelty.

Although IWC made up a nice story using the wrong reference, the Ingenieur remains a terrific anti-magnetic watch. Since these Ingenieur models aren’t appreciated by the masses, you can find them fairly well and nicely priced in the 2nd hand market. In my opinion, it’s undeserved that the Ingenieur line-up is so underrated. My guess is that the design of these models aren’t as catchy as the Porugieser line-up of watches

Dimer did a similar write up in Dutch for the DeZinvanLuxe watch portal. I used his pictures and article as a source for this blog post. Please visit his article for some more pictures of vintage models and catalogues.

IWC’s legendary master watchmaker Kurt Klaus was over for a visit at Ace Jewelers in Amsterdam. Alon Ben-Jospeh, CEO of Ace Jewelers, did an interview with Kurt Klaus for all IWC fans over at the IWC forum of WatchUseek and captured it on video. A real treat for both all IWC fans and Ace Jewelers, known for their impressive boutiques in Amsterdam as well as their on-line boutique where they are the first to sell IWC watches as an authorized dealer.

From left to right: Alon Ben-Joseph (Ace), Kurt Klaus (IWC), Dimer van Santen (Ace).

For those who don’t know, Kurt Klaus is the master mind behind IWC’s Da Vinci perpetual calendar, introduced in 1985. In the interview (which consists of three parts), Kurt Klaus explains to Alon Ben-Joseph about the history of the IWC Da Vinci perpetual calendar and how it evolved during time. The success of this timepiece is explained by the fact that it was the first serial produced watch with a perpetual calendar which can be set by only the crown. No need for extra pushers to set the calendar function. Enough spoiler.. see the video below for the first part of the interview with Kurt Klaus.

If you want to see the other parts, click www.acejewelers.tv for part 2 and part 3 of the interview.

Over at the IWC forum of WatchUseek, you can win an IWC catalogue signed by Kurt Klaus. The only thing you’ll need to do is enter your name in the “Free IWC/Ace Jeweler Raffle” thread which has been marked as ‘sticky’ at the top of the discussions. Click here to go to the IWC forum.

Last week, on the 8th of March, I attended the IWC show at Ace & Dik (AceJewelers.com) in Amsterdam. I was particularly interested in the new Portuguese with the dial of the red gold version and – of course – the new IWC Yacht-Club.

One of the most interesting timepieces was the IWC Portuguese Grande Complication, as pictured above (and below). This flagship of the Portuguese collection (with reference number 3774) is a stunning time piece limited to only 50 pieces per year. This 45mm diameter automatic winding watch has a number of very cool features, like a chronograph, perpetual calendar with with displays for the day, date, month, year (in 4 digits) and perpetual moon phase. And last not but certainly not least, a minute re-peater (see below).

I am testing the minute re-peater here. Conclusion: Works as designed. Price tag on this Grande Complication, +/- 170.000 Euro. The other perpetual calendars in the Portuguese family are pictured below, one in a stunning blue dial. However, I really am into the gold Portuguese perpetual calendar

Other watches of interest were the new Portuguese Yacht-Club and the Ingenieur Zidane edition (500 pieces). At first, I didn’t get the Yacht-Club (ref.3902). The weird plastic looking red hand and the fragile chronograph pushers seemed a bit odd on a rough watch for sailers. However, the pushers are derived from the thingies on a boat which they use to wrap the rope around. That makes a bit more sense but doesn’t explain the red second hand. The rubber strap is also nice, but an alligator strap might do the trick for this watch as well.

Below, you see a picture of the IWC display with – amongst others – the Zidane Ingenieur, with a brown dial. The dial is – irl – chocolate brown, the ’10′ hour marker is red and the rotor also has the number 10 engraved. This was – of course – the number of Zinedine Zidane when he was in the national league of France. Both the Yacht-Club with in-house chronograph movement and the Zidane Ingenieur with in-house 7-days movement are priced around 10K Euro.

The IWC Portuguese 7-Days in stainless steel with the dial from the red gold model Portuguese wasn’t my cup of tea after all. The applied hour markers and hands were too yellow-ish for my taste and the dial color doesn’t match stainless steel. I prefer the stainless steel model with either silver/white dial or black dial.

All in all a superb event organized by Ace & Dik in Amsterdam. A big thank you to Alon and his crew (a.o. Dimer) for being perfect hosts during the evening. Photos above both taken by Dimer of Ace and Gerard, who accompanied me to Ace & Dik.

Last weekend was one with a busy watch schedule. My wife is so happy with me

Friday evening, I attended a Rolex get-together, arranged by authorized Rolex dealer Schaap ~ Citroen. On Saturday I attended the SAHH (Salon Amsterdam de la Haute Horlogerie) to look at all the novelties from Audemars Piguet, Baume et Mercier, Cartier, IWC, Jeager-LeCoultre, Panerai, Piaget, Richard Mille and Roger Dubuis. The SAHH event was hosted by Gassan Diamonds in Amsterdam. And on Sunday, we had our Horloges & Espresso meeting with a bunch of watch nuts in The Hague, organized every first Sunday of the month.

To start with the first, the Schaap ~ Citroen @Home programme, organized a get-together for a few Rolex enthusiasts from The Netherlands. Together with Ronny Wooter (former auctioneer at Sotheby?��Ǩ�Ѣs) and a team of Schaap ~ Citroen, we received a nice presentation on their stores, vision on selling and of course, Rolex watches. Some great insights on sales, customers and Rolex were shared with us during the evening. A few of these insights on Rolex watches are:

• Rolex does not use laser engraved sapphire green crystals for the Milgauss;
• The laser engraved ?��Ǩ��S?��Ǩ�Ѣ will disappear from the replacement sapphire crystals that are being used when a watch is being serviced;
• The laser engraved Rolex logo is ALWAYS on 6 o?��Ǩ�Ѣclock, it is done after the crystal has been put on the timepiece.

Besides the presentation of current Rolex models, there was enough time to discuss vintage timepieces as well. Valuation, service and availability aspects were discussed through-out all the evening. Below you?��Ǩ�Ѣll find a few shots that Remco and sBmRnR made during the evening, just to give you an impression of this wonderful event:

I would like to thank Schaap ~ Citroen and forum members Harald and MarkD for initiating and hosting this great event!

On Saturday the 6^th of March, the SAHH was presented in Amsterdam, hosted by Gassan. The two watches that impressed me most were the Cartier Calibre (4900 Euro) with in-house movement and the AP Royal Oak Equation of Time (40-50K Euro). The Cartier has a useable size, perfect finish on dial and case and a movement developed by Cartier. The dial of this watch has all the nice details you are used from Cartier. The only downside is the shape of the lugs in my opinion. The pointy and bended lugs will stick in your wrist, especially when you have large wrists/arms.

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Equation of Time simply rocks the bomb. The size of the watch was slightly bigger than my Jumbo (15202) or the ref.15300, but still within proportions and less present than the Offshore models. The subtle leap-year indicator, sun-rise, sun-set and equation of time indicators in addition to its moon phase disc are in no-way misplaced or creating a dial that could be considered too busy. I tried on the gold version, but there will be a stainless steel version as well.

A brand that surprised me in a more negative way was Richard Mille. I was very interested in Richard Mille?��Ǩ�Ѣs timepieces but I simply can?��Ǩ�Ѣt give them a place. Technically very interesting, innovative techniques and materials, but design wise not very interesting in my opinion. The tourbillon was nice to look at, but I must say that I have seen enough tourbillons last year.

The weekend ended with our monthly Horloges & Espresso meeting in The Hague, the 15th edition if I am not mistaken Just to be in time to visit the IWC Show at Ace & Dik in Amsterdam the next day. A report will follow soon!

If I didn’t already have one, I would seriously consider this IWC Ingenieur 3227-01 that is for sale over at Horloge Platform Nederland. This discontinued model was only in production for a short time, 2005 – 2008. IWC introduced this new Ingenieur model in 2005, to be a worthy successor of the original IWC Ingenieur SL model as designed by Gerald Genta in 1976/1977. Last year, I wrote an article on Genta’s classics and their current versions here on Fratellowatches (click here to read the article) and although I concluded that this revised Ingenieur is only influenced by its original design (unlike the almost unchanged Patek Philippe Nautilus or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak), it is still an impressive model with Genta DNA.

With an original list price of 5900 Euro, this 3200 Euro is a steal for such a great timepiece (I wrote a review here). A very accurate timepiece, solid construction, incredible nice finish on case and bracelet because of the combination of polished and brushed parts and in this deal, it comes with both the stainless steel bracelet and original IWC soft strap.

I have seen this particular timepiece and was impressed by its condition, only minor wear to detect, even on the bracelet which tend to scratch quickly after wearing it a few times. Horloge Platform Nederland even made a small (HD) video on this timepiece, which enables you to determine the condition of this watch even better.

IWC Ingenieur, ref. 3227 from Gerard Nijenbrinks on Vimeo.

I really don’t understand the price drop on these Ingenieur timepieces. Although they are probably only liked by collectors, it is a lot of watch for this kind of money. An in-house IWC movement (caliber 80110), high-end finish on all inner and outer parts and a comfortable size of 42.5mm in diameter. The later models are less interesting in my opinion, the sharp edges are gone, the size has become bigger and prices have (of course) gone up. Get a 3227-01 before they run out!