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Only Watch 2013

Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph Flyback Reviewed

Our friends at Chronos24, the Polish watch portal and blog, just published a very nice review on the Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph Flyback. As you know, Baume & Mercier was one of the nicest surprises for us during the SIHH 2013. Although they’ve sent us pre-SIHH press releases, you have to see watches in the flesh before you (we) should judge.

Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph Flyback Reviewed

Anyway, check-out this thorough Baume & Mercier Capeland reference 10068 review written by Łukasz Doskocz. Yes, it is in English. Photographs are done by Michał Grygalewicz. Photos can be clicked for larger images.

Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph Flyback Reviewed

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830 – Live Pictures

Baume & Mercier brought one of the biggest surprises during the recently held SIHH by introducing the Clifton. Although Baume & Mercier already had sent out press releases to announce this new collection, I didn’t want to say much about it before seeing it in the flesh.

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830   Live Pictures

The Baume & Mercier Clifton collection grabs back to their watches from the 1950s. Elegant shaped cases, long lugs with perfectly beveled edges, a domed sapphire crystal and applied numerals and hour markers.

The inspiration for the Clifton is clear. 1950s timepieces from their own collection from that era. During my interview (that will be published later on) with Baume & Mercier’s Alexandre Peraldi (design director), I’ve learned that they also used input from their watch makers and long time retailers to create the Clifton collection.

When creating a timeless classic based on watches from the past, you can do a lot of things in the wrong way. It is very difficult to create a watch that breathes the same atmosphere as these true vintage 1950s watches without having either a ‘little old grandfather’s watch‘ feel to it or a watch that should look 1950s but has too many modern influences in it.

Although the pre-SIHH press release photos were already promising, I was truly stunned when looking at the Clifton collection in the flesh. Baume & Mercier exactly hit the right 1950s spot with their Clifton, especially the Clifton M0A10060.

Baume & Mercier introduced 3 different Clifton collections that consists of 9 different executions. For now, let’s focus on the Clifton M0A10060, their flagship model of the new collection, also being referred to as the Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830.

First of all, as written above, the watch definitely has that 1950s feel to it. Although it is not the typical 34 or 35mm vintage sized watch case but a ‘whopping’ 42mm. I always wonder whether the watches in the 1950s on our parents and grandparents were also small on their wrists (and we just became a bit bigger) or whether it was just ‘normal’ to have a very small watch, even if you  had large wrists. Somehow, small vintage watches look very well on the original owners/buyers, but not on me. I really adore these old vintage 34mm and 35mm watches, but every time I am persuaded in buying one off eBay or Chrono24, it ends up in the safe because it looks too small on me.

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830   Live Pictures

The 42mm sized Clifton looks just perfect on my wrists. With a height of just 8.85mm, the watch sits ‘flat’ on the wrist and ensures that it doesn’t become bulky or looking like a sports watch sized timepiece. The domed sapphire crystal and long bended (and beveled) lugs also do  great job making this watch look like an elegant object on your wrists.

This flagship model Clifton comes only in one shape and color. An opaline silver-colored, domed dial (!) that looks a bit ‘creamish’ from certain angles and with certain light sources. Gold hour and minute hands and a blued small second hand have been perfectly chosen for this watch. The shape of the hour and minute hands is just beautiful and seems to be a combination of leaf shaped hands and dauphin hands.

Inside the Baume & Mercier Clifton ref. M0A10060 ticks a hand-wound mechanical movement manufactured by La Joux-Perret, caliber 7381. With a power reserve of 90 hours, you don’t have to go to the process of winding it every day which seems to be a hurdle for some people who want to buy a mechanical watch.

Baume & Mercier Clifton 1830   Live Pictures

So, not a single downside of this watch? Well. First of all, the watch has a certain price tag. This particular Clifton only comes in a 18 carat red gold case. The other Clifton models are made out of stainless steel and have an attractive price tag (starting at 2500 Swiss Francs). I am not saying that it is too much money for this watch, but for 12.000 Swiss Francs (excluding VAT),  there are a number of interesting alternatives people can choose from.

Another point is its movement. Personally I wouldn’t be bothered by it, but the La Joux-Perret movement manufacturing company has been acquired by Citizen. To be more accurate on this, Citizen bought the holding company of La Joux-Perret, Prothor. The downside is that Citizen doesn’t sound very Swiss, the upside is that La Joux-Perret has enough capital strength to be sustainable for years to come.

In the end, Baume & Mercier did a fantastic job with the new Clifton collection. Personally, I find this 18 carat red gold version the most attractive Clifton. The Clifton 1830 comes on a very pretty black alligator strap with a red tang buckle.

All photos can be clicked for larger versions.

More information:

www.baume-et-mercier.com

Article written by Robert-Jan Broer for .

TimeZone’s Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition – Your Votes Please!

TimeZone’s 2011 Watch of the Year competition has started and there are six candidates you can choose from when voting. Go to the TimeZone website and leave your vote for your favorite watch manufacturer. Make sure you are a registered user of TimeZone and read the voting policy before doing so.

The candidates of the 2011 edition of TimeZone’s Watch of the Year are:

A. Lange & Sohne’s Richard Lange Tourbillon Pour le Mérite. Limited to 100 pieces only in platinum (model shown here in 18 carat red gold) and the fourth piece from this Glashuette manufacture with the Pour le Mérite distinction. The tourbillon with a patented stop-seconds mechanism and the fusée-and-chain transmission have been developed and implemented in this Richard Lange timepiece to improve rate stability and the accuracy of the movement. We’ve done a few A. Lange & Sohne articles at Fratellowatches in the past year, the most viewed one being Ming Thein’s Datograph Diary.

TimeZones Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition   Your Votes Please!

Baume & Mercier’s Hampton Automatic Chronograph. We’ve a lot of respect for the brand that was able to re-do their entire image and branding in such a short time. Completely in the style of the Hampton’s, where the rich and famous hang out in the weekends, Baume & Mercier is a brand again that is back on the horological map. Not only by collectors, but also by the people that only buy one good watch in their entire life. To celebrate a special occasion like graduation, promotion, marriage or just because they make beautiful chronographs. This Hampton Automatic Chronograph with its rectangular case (measuring 34 x 47 mm) is in our opinion competing in this 2011 Watch of the Year with the other rectangular watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Rerverso. A manufacture hand wound caliber with a power reserve of 65 hours keep this watch alive.

TimeZones Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition   Your Votes Please!

Gronefeld’s One Hertz. We’ve written a lot about this Dutch brand here, and about the One Hertz in particular (click here). The complication of this beautiful watch is the independent dead seconds hand (secondes mortes). Gronefeld’s in-house developed movement is wonderfully crafted and uses a terrific easy to operate time-setting and winding system. Just by pushing the crown you’ll operate the watch, the small indicator in the dial demonstrates whether it is in winding or setting mode. The One Hertz is unique in the sense that the dead seconds are being powered by a secondary gear train that is completely independent from the hour and minute indications gear train. Available in gold and stainless steel.

TimeZones Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition   Your Votes Please!

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Grande Reverso Ultra Thin “Tribute to 1931”. 2011 was the 80th anniversary of the Reverso and JLC celebrated that with this Tribute to 1931. The ultra-thin rectangular timepiece has become the SIHH 2011 favorite of many collectors and watch aficionados out there. Understandable, since this watch is such an icon of time. Everybody knows the Reverso, even when there is not much interest in watches at all. We’ve covered Jaeger-LeCoultre quite a lot last year and have shown our love for this classic brand over and over again, based on the positive reactions on these articles and the views it generated, we think this watch could be the winner of the competition. This manual wind (caliber 822) time piece is available in gold and stainless steel.

TimeZones Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition   Your Votes Please!

Patek Philippe’s Perpetual Calendar Chronograph Reference 5270. This particular chronograph has been in our Top 5 of Basel 2011 time pieces (click here). From the moment we saw it during our appointment with Patek Philippe in BaselWorld, we were impressed with it. This entirely in-house designed and crafted chronograph caliber does not only feature a chronograph, it is also a – as the name implied already – a perpetual calendar showing the day and month in two apertures at 12 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, the dial shows the date and moon phase. Of course, this PP has the PP Seal engraved in the movement and consists of over 450 parts in total (182 only for the perpetual calendar). With its diameter of 41mm, it is very wearable.

TimeZones Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition   Your Votes Please!

Vacheron Constantin’s Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time. We’ve done an article in the past about our top 3 of World Timers, and this Vacheron Constantin wasn’t in there. This was of course, before this timepiece had been introduced in 2011. This World Time watch enables simultaneous reading of all 37 world time zones, using three different dials. 1. A sapphire dial with inked and engraved 24-hour indications and central graded day/night indication; 2. A metal dial with map and transferred city names; 3. A metal minute-circle ring and gold applied indexes. By picking a reference location and turning it toward a black triangle at 6 o’clock, the requested time zone can be read by the hour hand or by the 24-hour indicator while the other 36 time zones can be read simultaneously, as well. All settings are created by using the crown. Vacheron Constatin filed a patent for this caliber 2460WT movement.

TimeZones Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition   Your Votes Please!

Here at Fratellowatches we’ve shown a lot of love for some of the brands in this list during the last year. Since we’ve gotten our hands on the Gronefeld One Hertz (Ming Thein did an excellent review, click here), handled it during introduction in BaselWorld 2011 and fiddled around with it during our photo shoot for AskMen at the Gronefeld manufacture in The Netherlands (click here), we are very enthusiastic about this watch and Gronefeld in general. We are pretty sure that we can see a lot more interesting horological stuff coming up from the Dutch bros. The One Hertz is a timepiece that should and would make a perfect ‘TimeZone Watch of the Year 2011′ watch.

TimeZones Watch Of The Year 2011 Competition   Your Votes Please!

Whatever watch you’ll pick as a winner, make sure to do this before noon (GMT) on the 27th of February 2012. Vote by only stating the name of the company, not the watch model. Click here to enter the voting of 2011 TimeZone’s Watch of the Year!

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