Ace Jewelers


Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Another rare bird passed by my studio the other day: the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails (ref.25860′IS.0.1110IS.01).

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

I must admit that APs are not my speciality (we have RJ for that), so I don’t have a lot to say about this one other than some observations on the aesthetics and design of the piece:

- For a watch this large, it’s surprisingly light – since it is a combination of stainless steel and titanium. Even more impressively, there does not appear to be any degree of compromise made in the finish, which is amazing as titanium is an incredibly difficult material to work with – especially polishing.

- The dial is…unique. It brings to mind several things – swimming pool, Chinese ceramics, and the possibility that the watch itself may not be entirely kosher – rest assured, it is. I’m just not sure I’d choose this color combination if I was given anything to do with the design. Still, it stands out, I suppose. Only 300 of these watches have been produced.

- As nice as the hexagonal screw down pushers look, they’re a pain to use; they must be screwed and unscrewed each time to maintain the water resistance of the case.

- This is one of the models containing a Piguet 1185 derivative (AP caliber 2385); the giveaway is the sundial layout and the proximity of the date wheel to the dial surface – note how a lot of Offshores have a little ‘tunnel’ containing a magnifying glass in front of the date (click here to read our Offshore Safari review). This is both to make it more legible, and partially hide the fact that the watch uses a modular chronograph.

- The bracelet is really first class – as befits a watch whose design hinges so much on the bracelet and its integration with the case.

Without further ado, I leave you to the photographs. As usual, all images may be clicked on for larger versions.

Enjoy!

MT

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

And finally, something fun and befitting the nautical theme:

Photo Essay: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph City of Sails

Rory McIlroy And His Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Ref.26300

If it weren’t for the guys over at Hodinkee to notify me, I probably wouldn’t even have noticed that Audemars Piguet’s golf ambassador Rory McIlroy is wearing the same watch as I do. The Royal Oak Chronograph ref.26300ST with the ‘Newman’ dial.

Rory McIlroy And His Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Ref.26300

Rory McIlroy (22yrs old) won the U.S. Open last Sunday (June 19th) with the lowest score in the history of the tournament. He was wearing what I was wearing, the Royal Oak Chronograph ref.26300 (full reference number for this particular dial configuration is 26300ST.OO.1110ST.06).

Ever since I got it last year November, I have almost been wearing this chrono on a daily basis. The size of the watch is very comfortable (39mm in diameter, but wears bigger because of the lug-to-lug size of 49.5mm) and the Newman dial is just perfect. The dial is white in the sun, silver in artificial light sources and the sub dials are dark brown/grey-ish. The large red chronograph second hand and the small red tips on the small chrono hands adds a bit of punch to the watch.

Rory McIlroy And His Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Ref.26300

Congratulations to both Rory McIlroy (although I don’t think he reads watch blogs) and Audemars Piguet with this victory. More information about this particular watch can be found on the official AP website (here).

 

The Battle Of The Jumbos – AP RO 15202ST vs IWC Inge SL1832

Watch designer Genta designed a number of watches that turned into icons. Best example is the first stainless steel luxury watch he designed in 1972, the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet. Later on, he repeated this with his Nautilus for Patek Philippe and the Ingenieur for IWC. All these watches are being referred to as ‘Jumbo’, as they were considered to be HUGE then. Today, we seem to be laughing at 39/40mm diameter watches. One of the readers of Fratellowatches, Martijn, has two of Genta’s cult watches and sent me some photographs.

The Battle Of The Jumbos   AP RO 15202ST vs IWC Inge SL1832

The IWC Ingenieur SL1832 ‘Jumbo’ is part of Martijn’s collection of IWC watches. Recently, he added a white dial Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ that has been produced around 2004. Although 32 years newer since the very first model Royal Oak, it only has a few differences from the initial design (ref.5402). The first Royal Oak had a smaller ‘Clou de Paris’ design on the dial and the AP logo was at 6 o’clock instead of 12 o’clock. The case back was stainless steel instead of a display back and the clasp was a bit more simple than the current one. The IWC Ingenieur SL1832 dates back to 1976 (this pictured model is a 1979 watch) and came with a stainless steel case back as well. The movement inside is IWC caliber 8541B/8541ES and is a ‘slow ticker’ just like Audemars Piguet’s caliber 2121.

The Battle Of The Jumbos   AP RO 15202ST vs IWC Inge SL1832

As you can see, these watches are clearly cousins. The IWC ‘Jumbo’ looks  bit bigger, although it is only a 1mm difference in diameter. Although Martijn is happy with both watches, the one below is the keeper.

The Battle Of The Jumbos   AP RO 15202ST vs IWC Inge SL1832

If you are interested in buying Martijn’s IWC Ingenieur SL1832, leave a message using the contact form.

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