Ace Jewelers


Peter Roberts “Concentrique” – Grand Complication 5

Chances are small that you’ve heard about Peter Roberts before, unless you belong to the inner circles of England’s south-eastern watch enthusiasts. Although he has quite a resumé, he does not seem to be the guy that is all over the web or actually wants to be all over the web. With 45 years of experience in the watch industry though, you could say he’s a watch vet.

Peter Roberts “Concentrique”   Grand Complication 5

Being the first WOSTEP student from the UK, having worked at IWC and Rolex in Switzerland and being the head of repairs at one of the high-end jewellers in London is certainly impressive, but you probably don’t know Peter Roberts from that part of his resumé as well. You might know him being the Technical Director of the Bremont Watch Company. Peter Roberts developed their MB roto-click and the impressive Marine clock.

Based on a Valjoux 88 that is completely hand finished, modified with the “Concentrique” mechanism, Peter Roberts designed the “Concentrique” Grand Complication 5 timepiece. 5, because it has 5 hands from the center pinion of the watch, indicating: hours, minutes, chronograph seconds, date and an extra time zone.

Only 40 pieces will be made of the “Concentrique” Grand Complication 5. Although you are able to see some generated pictures of the watch on the official website of Peter Roberts, we hereby show you the actual dial of the watch that will be unveiled during Baselworld 2013.

We will make sure to come back to you with more details and photos of the Peter Roberts “Concentrique” Grand Complication 5.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

It seems like I’m on a roll with rare Jaeger-LeCoultre pieces of late: hot off the camera is a set of the magnificent Gyrotourbillon 1 (we did a review of the Gyrotourbillon 2 as well). This version has a skeleton ‘dial’; a massive rose gold case, perpetual calendar, and of course, the signature multi-axis tourbillon – all made up of 679 parts, 117 alone of which are jewel bearings.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review
As usual, click on any image for a larger version

It also runs for slightly over eight days, powered by two vertically stacked and sapphire-topped barrels – which is a nice touch, but I’m not sure why you’d need to see the state of wind if you’ve got a power reserve indicator on the front. This is especially impressive considering the amount of torque required to turn the double tourbillon cages. Aesthetically, the best side is the front – although of course there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the back, of course! But all the same it’s nice to have a piece whose complexity is there to appreciate without having to take it off. Datograph, I’m looking at you.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

The perpetual calendar is a triple retrograde implementation, but with a twist: the month is on a scale next to the tourbillon cage and mirroring the power reserve indicator; however, the date is on a scale which divides the watch into two vertically, and sits on a slightly lower level than the timekeeping dial. What’s more interesting is that the date indicator hand swings from an arc whose pivot point is at the top of the watch in the 12 o’clock position – this is accomplished by means of a split indicator that actually has two hands, one of which takes over on the 17th of the month for the second half of the scale. Neat. I also love the little touch of whimsy offered by the ‘sun hand’, which is an equation of time indicator – of course customized to the latitude of the city desired. The leap year indicator is on the rear of the watch – sensible, as there’s nowhere to put it on the front that wouldn’t disrupt the balance of the dial, and it’s not something you’d refer to that often, anyway.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Do we need to talk about finishing? Not really, with a piece like this – it’s as you’d expect. My only preference would be to have applied markers on the time dial, rather than printed numbers – I’m just not a big fan of the font used. Otherwise, it’s actually surprisingly legible for something so complicated (and skeletonized). I also really like the previous semi-translucent sapphire dial; it would be nice for a future edition if JLC would apply that finish to the entire dial of the watch.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

I’ve saved the best for last. I spent a lot of time just staring at the motion of the tourbillon – it’s utterly mesmerizing and amazing when viewed through the viewfinder of a camera at such high magnification that the cage occupies the entire frame. It’s also hugely challenging to shoot, because by design the cage will take a very long time before it passes the same orientation again, and there’s no way of hacking the movement – understandable given the nature of the escapement.

A masterpiece? Undoubtedly. MT

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

It seems that this year is to be the year of the super complication! Thanks again to the folks at Jaeger-LeCoultre, we had the opportunity to photograph and enjoy this piece for a very short period of time – enough to produce some images and gather some impressions of this rare bird.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review
As usual, click on any image for a larger version.

Most repeaters are housed in cases of ‘heavy’ metals – think platinum, or at very least, gold; there have been a few forays into exotic metals (I have no idea what Richard Mille would use if they were to ever make a repeater) but titanium seems to be the predominant choice for non-precious metal cases. The reason for this is fairly simple: it sounds different. Although case design plays a huge part in the final sound of the piece, given all other things being constant, a denser case will probably sound richer than a less dense one; however it will also be softer because more energy is required to make the case resonate.

I can’t claim to have handled a huge number of repeaters; however this does seem to bear out with the Master Minute Repeater (MMR) – the gold versions are not as loud as the titanium, but they do sound a bit richer. The titanium cased version is a little crisper, and has a slightly sharper pitch. All variants are fairly loud by repeater standards, thanks to the coupling of the gongs to the sapphire crystal – which effectively acts as a resonator. The regulator is also noticeably silent, adding almost zero background noise to the proceedings.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

Two enormous barrels give this watch a power reserve of two weeks; it’s probably not the kind of piece you’d wear every day, so being able to set and leave it for an extended period of time between wearings makes sense. Thanks to shorter gearing, it doesn’t take that long to wind fully either.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review
Note the tri-lobed chatons holding the arbors for the two enormous barrels.

One of the consequences of having such a long power reserve – despite a large movement diameter – is that the barrels take up a huge amount of space; this leaves little room for the balance wheel. Although larger balances carry more inertia and are generally more rate-stable, a smaller balance also uses less power to oscillate and permits an even longer power reserve. (Inertia varies with the square of the balance radius; energy requirements are linearly related to inertia).

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

There really isn’t a lot to say about the finishing, other than it’s commensurate with expectations of a watch in this (rarefied) price range. It’s excellent. Plenty of attention is paid to details, giving the watch a very three-dimensional, luminous quality; the variation in surface finishing is nice, too – matte blasting, anglage, perlage, brushing, polishing, darkened plates, sunburst stripes…

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

I think JLC made the right decision to not put a dial on this piece; the dial side of the movement holds the striking train and upper pivot jewels for many components, notably the entire repeater train. Watching the works in action is definitely one of the highlights of this piece. It also saves the owner from having to wear it upside down – this must be one of the few watches where the dial side of the movement is definitely more beautiful than the top plate.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

Not much to say about the repeater slide, other than the action is quite long and firm; you don’t want to be accidentally half-activating the strike mechanism and risking a very hefty repair bill. I’d like to see a bit less vertical play in the slide; though I understand why some tolerances may be required for smooth operating. Despite the long slide, the watch still carries a 50m water resistance rating – though you’d be nuts to swim with it.

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

I leave you with one final image of the watch – it’s really a very warm, cinematic piece despite the rose gold indices; I think that blued steel hands and indices would contrast with the dial better, but people who know me will also know of my strong personal bias in that direction.

Now, does anybody know how I can get my hands on a Hybris Mechanica? MT

Jaeger LeCoultre Master Minute Repeater Review

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