Ace Jewelers
Only Watch 2013

World Premiere: Peter Speake-Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

Today we present the Peter Speake-Marin Immortal Dragon, a piece unique featuring a superbly detailed relief hand engraving by the noted (Dutch) Kees Engelbarts. The case is in platinum with diamond bezel, and the movement is the SM2 caliber decorated with model-specific engraving. Although much more a fine art or jewelry piece than something to appeal to the fans of haute horology, the movement is still one of the best designed and best finished I’ve ever seen.

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique
As usual, all images may be clicked on for larger versions.

I’m not normally a huge fan of engraving or decorated dials, but the dark oxidized and etched areas of relief around the dragon really set it off and give the piece a magnificent sense of depth. It is almost entirely monochromatic – lacking Speake-Marin’s usual trademark blued hands – but curiously the colorlessness of the dial allows the antireflective coating on the underside of the sapphire crystal to show an occasional flash of blue, which I find inexplicably endearing. The polished hands nicely offset the otherwise textured dial components, and nicely complement the hefty platinum case; they’re also surprisingly readable. The beauty really is in the details with this piece.

Enjoy the images! MT

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

World Premiere: Peter Speake Marin Immortal Dragon Piece Unique

Peter Speake-Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls – Hands On

There is horology, and there is art. And sometimes there is both. The first popular culture reference to skulls in recent times can probably be traced to Damien Hirst and his diamond-covered skull; I was struck by a sense of déjà-vu when viewing this watch for the first time. But there actually was not one, but two diamond-covered skulls. I have to admit, this watch was making me feel a little uncomfortable. We’ll come back to this in a minute.

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Dial aside, the rest of the watch is classic Peter Speake-Marin: a chunky 950 platinum Piccadilly case with thick, straight lugs terminating in oversized screwed bars; aviator crown; vertically sided caseband. All in platinum, of course – as befitting a piece unique. Aside from the hands, the initial aesthetic of the watch is one of being visually ‘light’ – thanks to the various textures and reflective surfaces on the upper portions of the watch.

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

The only counterpoint to this are the oversized blued hands, which are beautifully finished and curve gracefully, complimenting the organic lines of the skull. It’s actually a good thing that the rest of the dial is light and reflective, as this only serves to further highlight the beautiful shade of blue of the hands. Another nice touch is the antireflective coating on the crystal; I can’t imagine the watch without it given the dial contents!

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Personally, I think the real treasure lies around the back. Flip the watch over, and one’s first impression is that the German silver movement plates have also been covered in diamonds – fortunately, that is not the case. Instead, they are completely covered in elegant swirls – the effect somehow brings to mind a mad Lange engraver who has gone to town on not only the balance cock, but the entire movement.

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Powering the Diamond Skulls is Speake-Marin’s SM2 handwind movement; there is nothing complicated about the layout or mechanics, but it is beautifully executed. The arcing bridges are a nice change from the conventional, too. There are a lot of nice details on this movement: the enormous barrel jewel that looks like an eye; the cutout for the great wheel; a beautiful swanneck regulator; separate name-plate-bridge, and a rather unusual barrel click design. This results in some strange winding feedback – it’s smooth but has a little resistance and tooth to it.

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Finishing, of course, is absolutely first class all over. Even examining the components under 40-50x magnification, surface polish, cleanliness, edge evenness etc are all clean and uniform. This is most impressive indeed. If this watch were mine, I’d get Speake-Marin to case it upside down, or at least wear it that way.

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Peter Speake Marin Piccadilly Diamond Skulls   Hands On

Back to the skulls. I’m done photographing the movement; when I flip it over, the heads are no longer jarring but somehow sad and happy at the same time; maybe it’s the angle of their tilt and the smiling tooth-line. And the polish of the eye-sockets reflects the underside of the blued hands in a liquid flowing pool of white gold.

You know something, I think the skulls are growing on me.

A big thanks to the generous collector for allowing me to photograph this piece.

Official Peter Speake-Marin website: http://www.speake-marin.com/ Peter Speake-Marin on Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/SpeakeMarin

Gronefeld One Hertz Review – Hands On

I’ve had the privilege of handling many rare timepieces in the past; some of them make more of an impression than others, for various reasons. The Gronefeld One Hertz is one of these – but for a very different reason. Built by brothers Bart and Tim Gronefeld, the One Hertz is actually the least complicated watch they have built – previously of Renaud et Papi, they also completed the GTM-06 tourbillon minute repeater.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

The watch ticks, in one-second increments – like a (gasp) quartz watch. Flip it over, though, and it’s clear that something much more special powers the hands – of course an entirely mechanical caliber, developed in house.

The rest of this post will be a concise – but admittedly subjective – review of this timepiece. Many thanks to Robert-Jan Broer for allowing me to contribute, and a big thank you to the collector who loaned me the watch.

Case, crown and external finishing

The One Hertz is housed in a well-finished 43x13mm case, that wears a lot larger than its dimensions suggest thanks to a minimalist bezel; massive is perhaps the right word to describe it. The caseband is brushed, though the bezel, lugs and part of the back are polished – lending the watch a nice variation in texture, reminiscent of the Lange cases, which is further reinforced by the proud bezel for the display back. Everything is solid and well-finished.
Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

The crown is a nice surprise – you push it in to change between winding and setting functions, indicated on a small segment on the dial at 3 o’clock. Unfortunately this also limits the diameter of the crown to the caseband; a larger crown would be nice to make winding easier, as well as being slightly better proportioned to the rest of the case.

Strap

Unfortunately our watch did not come supplied with a strap from the manufacture – this country has some interesting hide import regulations – so we are unable to comment here.

Dial

A large portion of the dial is given over to the seconds hand display; this is, after all, the feature complication of the watch. In fact, it’s so large that the scale has a transparent portion to allow the main time dial to be larger and more legible at all times. There are also small segments to show the remaining power reserve (72 hours, but without a graduated scale) and the position of the winding crown.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Although the dial aesthetic resembles that of other watches – notably, various Maurice Lacroixes – the Gronefeld is both better finished, and has a much greater sense of depth thanks to many applied and recessed elements, and a good use of varied texture. In hindsight though, the quest for depth is perhaps taken a bit too far; the seconds hand is on the end of a very long pinion which gives the sense of emerging from the dial like a pin from a golf hole.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Kudos for ensuring second hand alignment with the indices is perfect; further kudos for putting the time display on the right to make the watch easily readable whilst peeking out from under a cuff. Visual balance could be improved slightly though – possibly by relocating the power reserve segment to the 7-8 o’clock position to balance out the main time dial.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Movement

Now for the interesting part! The movement – approximately 34mm in diameter – occupies a good portion of the case, and obviously doesn’t require spacers. Despite its size, it’s very full; the timekeeping train snakes around the outside, culminating in a free sprung balance with adjustable poise weights and a Philips overcoil; a second barrel and short train drives the dead seconds complication. The dead seconds hand is entirely independent from the timekeeping train. It is kept synchronized and ticking by means of a secondary double sided pallet fork, whose rocking is controlled by a shallow profile gear on the fourth wheel pinion; its opposite side locks and unlocks the wolf teeth of an ‘escape wheel’ of sorts, which directly drives the second hand. Simple, elegant, and most importantly, likely to be very reliable.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

The movement itself is full of nice touches – each main wheel has its own bridge, including the barrels and top plate keyless works; this should make servicing a breeze. Furthermore, the primary jewel bearings are held in replaceable gold chatons; although not fastened by screws, they make a nice decorative touch and further speak to the longevity of the movement.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Finishing of the plates is a mixture of classical and modern styles. Edges are beveled and polished, with perlage on some recessed plate areas and a functional brushed/ polished finish on levers etc. The main plates are etched with a dark matte finish, leaving their borders and any text proud in relief – a very nice aesthetic indeed. I have no idea if the hidden areas of the watch are similarly finished (I try not to disassemble watches that aren’t mine), but I would have no reason to assume otherwise.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

Conclusion

The One Hertz is an interesting proposition – even taking cost into account, which is a nontrivial 30,000 Euros or so. For that, one gets a piece that most will interpret as a nicely finished quartz watch – but is in actual fact a super-exclusive (just 12 pieces in steel, a further 20 in rose gold) handmade piece with a number of neat complications. In some ways, it felt like the anti-haute horologie watch for people who don’t want to identify with overtly mechanical pieces like the Richard Milles or Breguet Traditions.

Gronefeld One Hertz Review   Hands On

And herein lies the paradox for me – I can appreciate the craftsmanship and uniqueness of the One Hertz; but if a similar sum was given to me to spend on exclusively on watches, I have to admit I would probably not purchase it. Personal tastes and aesthetics would make up a significant portion of this decision, but at the end of the day, there are just two things that ultimately swing my decision: it simply wears too large for my small wrists, and I like interactive complications.  MT

Photographic note: Images shot by the author with a Nikon D700, AFS 60/2.8 G Micro-Nikkor and several flashes.

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