Ace Jewelers


Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Disclaimer: The watch photographed was an early production prototype. I’m told there will be a number of changes to the final version, they’re also looking into the possibility of additional/ alternate dials…

The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three is an interesting piece because it carries clear DNA from its creator – Kari Voutilainen (the dial) – whilst at the same time retaining the brand’s own DNA (the rollers). It’s a substantial but not oversized watch at about 42mm in diameter; contained inside are time functions, small seconds, date, synodic moon phase indication, day/night indicator and second time zone display. The latter two functions are hidden under panels on the dial at 12 and 6 that retract slightly into the plane of the dial and rotate out of the way, activated by the button concentric to the crown; the fact that they sit flush when hiding the functions is a neat touch.

There’s a button at 9 to advance the second time zone display, on two rollers (normally hidden under the panel at 6). You can see the action of the panels in the final two images. The more time I spend with their watches, the more I feel that Maitres du Temps is definitely a brand to watch because it collaborates with famous watchmakers to create the various ‘Chapters’ – they do have an in-house execution and assembly facility headed by the noted Andreas Strehler, but each project always lands up different because it carries the DNA of the master watchmaker in charge of the project. (I’ll probably get shot for saying this, but in many ways, it feels like a more classical version of MB&F.) Chapter 3 looks nothing like 1 and 2; they were of course designed by completely different watchmakers. Personally, this piece is by far my favorite – I think of it as classical, with a twist. MT

This series shot with a Nikon D800, AFS 60/2.8 G Micro, and several SB900s. As always, clicking on an image brings you to the Flickr landing page, from which you can view a larger version.

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

Photoessay: The Maitres du Temps Chapter Three

More information can be found at:

www.facebook.com/MaitresduTemps

www.maitresdutemps.com

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

The Breguet La Tradition was launched in the mid-2000s to much fanfare and many subsequently mixed reviews amongst fans and connoisseurs – here was a watch that put the escapement on the dial side, was constructed in a very traditional 18th century style (note the odd, almost arbitrary shape of the bridges and sub-plates), finished unusually (but very well indeed) and launched at a reasonably accessible price for what it offered.

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Even the architecture was pretty unusual: the time dial was pushed to the top of the watch, regulateur-style, with the barrel in the center and going train laid out across the bottom of the watch. There’s also a little power reserve indicator tucked away at top-right, minimally decorated so as not to interfere with the symmetric aesthetic of the watch.

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

But then we turned it over, and were surprised by the vast emptiness on the top plate – sure, most of the going train was put on the front, but I think what looked odd to most people was not the emptiness – but the vertical height between the top plate and rear sapphire. I was told that this was the way watches during that period were designed and laid out; no milled recesses for components, just a plate with everything else bolted on to it. I still think a little deviation here and there for the sake of aesthetics would be acceptable – there’s no way they’d use 18th century oils on the escapement, either.

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

The La Tradition line has spawned a number of complications, some of which do actually use the extra space on the top plate to good effect – the tourbillon, for instance both fills out the front of the dial and the top plate well. It just looks more ‘complete’ to the eye. Whilst I personally prefer the monochrome color scheme with WG case and anthracite dial (similar to the tourbillon) – there’s no denying that the traditional gold version has its appeal too.

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

But enough of that, to the photographs. As usual, clicking on any of them will bring you to a larger version. The series was shot with a mix of equipment – the Nikon D700 and 60/2.8 macro; Leica M9-P, bellows and Zeiss 2/50 Planar; and finally, the Olympus Pen Mini. Furthermore, if you’re interested in how I made some of the higher magnification ones, please have a look at these two articles on my photography site (The never-ending quest for more magnification; Macrophotography and the Leica M) which both go into more of the technical details. MT

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Photo Essay: Breguet La Tradition

Jaeger-LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

It seems like I’m on a roll with rare Jaeger-LeCoultre pieces of late: hot off the camera is a set of the magnificent Gyrotourbillon 1 (we did a review of the Gyrotourbillon 2 as well). This version has a skeleton ‘dial’; a massive rose gold case, perpetual calendar, and of course, the signature multi-axis tourbillon – all made up of 679 parts, 117 alone of which are jewel bearings.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review
As usual, click on any image for a larger version

It also runs for slightly over eight days, powered by two vertically stacked and sapphire-topped barrels – which is a nice touch, but I’m not sure why you’d need to see the state of wind if you’ve got a power reserve indicator on the front. This is especially impressive considering the amount of torque required to turn the double tourbillon cages. Aesthetically, the best side is the front – although of course there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the back, of course! But all the same it’s nice to have a piece whose complexity is there to appreciate without having to take it off. Datograph, I’m looking at you.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

The perpetual calendar is a triple retrograde implementation, but with a twist: the month is on a scale next to the tourbillon cage and mirroring the power reserve indicator; however, the date is on a scale which divides the watch into two vertically, and sits on a slightly lower level than the timekeeping dial. What’s more interesting is that the date indicator hand swings from an arc whose pivot point is at the top of the watch in the 12 o’clock position – this is accomplished by means of a split indicator that actually has two hands, one of which takes over on the 17th of the month for the second half of the scale. Neat. I also love the little touch of whimsy offered by the ‘sun hand’, which is an equation of time indicator – of course customized to the latitude of the city desired. The leap year indicator is on the rear of the watch – sensible, as there’s nowhere to put it on the front that wouldn’t disrupt the balance of the dial, and it’s not something you’d refer to that often, anyway.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Do we need to talk about finishing? Not really, with a piece like this – it’s as you’d expect. My only preference would be to have applied markers on the time dial, rather than printed numbers – I’m just not a big fan of the font used. Otherwise, it’s actually surprisingly legible for something so complicated (and skeletonized). I also really like the previous semi-translucent sapphire dial; it would be nice for a future edition if JLC would apply that finish to the entire dial of the watch.

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

I’ve saved the best for last. I spent a lot of time just staring at the motion of the tourbillon – it’s utterly mesmerizing and amazing when viewed through the viewfinder of a camera at such high magnification that the cage occupies the entire frame. It’s also hugely challenging to shoot, because by design the cage will take a very long time before it passes the same orientation again, and there’s no way of hacking the movement – understandable given the nature of the escapement.

A masterpiece? Undoubtedly. MT

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Gyrotourbillon Review

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