Ace Jewelers


Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

The Reverso collection is so iconic, it almost doesn’t need any further introduction. However, for those who never took the time to read about one of the most famous rectangular watches, here’s a little background:

The design for this reversible watch dates back to the 1930s, 1931 to be precise. Polo players were sick and tired of broken and damaged crystals on their timepieces when playing this noble game. Jaeger-LeCoultre came up with the idea of making it possible to flip the watch on your wrist, so that the crystal was protected from serious beatings. In 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced (and patented) the Reverso watch. Through the decades, the Reverso developed and grew out to become the elegant watch it is now.

In 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated the 80th anniversary of the Reverso collection. During the SIHH 2011 in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre commemorated this anniversary with this Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 model. Jaeger-LeCoultre takes the ultra thin definition quite seriously, the Reverso is only 7.2mm thick.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Tribute to 1931 Reference 2788570

Jaeger-LeCoultre in The Netherlands lend us their Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 for a week. This gave me some time to do some hands-on experience with this timepiece and our photographer Bert Buijsrogge to get it in front of his camera lens. I had tried a Reverso before a few years ago, from my colleague Frank Geelen of the Monochrome blog, who had one (Grande Date 8 – days if I’m not mistaken) in his private collection. Although I loved the appearance of the Reverso, I found the watch to be a bit too thick. This ultra thin Tribute to 1931 ref. 2788570 model sounded like a perfect opportunity to give the Reverso another chance.

Colleague Ming Thein, who’s a huge Jaeger-LeCoultre fan, already did a write-up on the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 and Reverso Classique here on Fratellowatches. His posts certainly made me even more enthusiastic about the Reverso, so I was very eager to give the Tribute to 1931 model a spin.

Although I can physically handle any Reverso I’m afraid, I have a weak spot for ultra thin watches. I find them very elegant, even on fairly large wrists. You don’t always need a large watch in my humble opinion, even though you can easily handle one.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Fits Like a Glove

With modest dimensions of 46mm in length, 27.5mm in width and only 7.2 in height, this watch will fit almost anyone. Although 46mm seems big, it will fit a normal wrist easily. The ratio of the Reverso is just perfect, especially with the ultra thin case.

In my case, this Reverso fits me like a glove. The thin case is so comfortable, especially in combination with the beautiful alligator strap. I wonder if I ever would reverse the case on my wrist, it is very easy to do so. Just grab the right side of the watch, pull it and slide the left side of the case through the right side and turn the crown side of the watch all the way to the left. And click. A bit difficult to explain in words, but the picture below probably makes more sense.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

An Icon Within An Icon

It is not easy to define or even to explain what makes a watch an icon. Much like the X-Factor. The Reverso however, is clearly a watch that deserved the status of being an icon a long time ago already. Together with the Cartier Tank, it is the most recognizable rectangular watch out there. Jaeger-LeCoultre has quite a large number of variations of the Reverso and it is also a strong collection for ladies. These variations range from the hours and minutes only, like this Reverso Tribute to 1931 model, to models that have a minute repeater and tourbillon complication. Although these latter models certainly have the appearance of the iconic Reverso, I believe that this ultra thin Tribute to 1931 model will become an icon itself. The clean Art Deco style dial, the influences of the original Reverso and of course the thin case make this a Reverso that definitely stands out in my opinion.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

The Flip Side

As explained above, it is very easy to reverse the case of this watch. As you can see on one of the pictures above, the part that would be normally considered as the inner case back, is finished with beautiful perlage. Although the in-house developed movement caliber 822 is worth looking at, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to stay close to the original and kept the case closed. The high polish finish of the case looks wonderful and leaves room for a personal inscription, family weapon or other kind of engraving.

The brushed finish on the case back has a serene appearance, but does feature a few engravings and markings. Where we didn’t find the brand name on the front, the case back does mention the company from Le Sentier and the fact that it is a Reverso. Something which wasn’t necessary, but it doesn’t bother me as well. As you can see on the photo below, the watch is also water resistant to 3 bar (30 meters) and was subject to a 1000 hours of control by the watch makers of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Other than with the Chronometer rating (COSC), the Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are being tested for accuracy in their cases instead of testing the movements only.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute to 1931 was on my wrist for one week and it was very difficult to let it go. It is clearly something different from many other watches out there that are considered to be an icon (like a Submariner, Speedmaster, Royal Oak, Nautilus or even a Tank). If you are a regular reader of this blog, you will know that I am a sucker for iconic watches. This Reverso would blend in perfectly in my modest collection of watches.

It was quite an experience wearing this rectangular beauty from Jaeger-LeCoultre, as it gave me a total different feel than the other Reverso I’d tried in the past. The thin case almost integrates seamlessly with the nice black alligator strap  (and stainless steel buckle). The elegant appearance makes this watch perfect company for formal occasions or when wearing a shirt and tie. I have to be honest and tell you that I really had to get used wearing this watch with a casual outfit. You can get away with it of course, but keep in mind that the alligator strap and high polished thin case will attract attention when wearing a t-shirt or a polo shirt.

List price of 6.250,- Euro (including VAT) / $ 7,800.- USD (excluding VAT)

More information can be found on the official Jaeger-LeCoultre website.

All photos in this article can be clicked for a larger version.



Watches In TV Series

Watches in TV series, we all know you have been trying to identify Jerry Seinfeld’s Breitling (or Cartier), Kim Kardashian’s AP Royal Oak (or Scott Disick’s), Dexter’s Timex, Charlie’s Rolex Yacht-Master and Tony Soprano’s Rolex Day-Date. And although Don Draper wore a Rolex Explorer in HBO’s Mad Men TV series, Jaeger-LeCoultre recently released a Mad Men special ‘Mad about Reverso’ that features a Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce logo engraved in the reversible back side of the watch. So it seems that watch manufacturers are pretty aware of the fact that you are eagle eyeing the watches in TV shows.

Watches In TV Series

Was this always the case? One of our avid readers – Johan – sent us a screen shot of the second part of A-Team’s pilot episode Mexican Slayride from 1983. Tim Dunigan plays ‘Faceman’ instead of Dirk Benedict  (who started from the 3rd episode) and wears an OMEGA Geneve f300Hz (tuning fork model), which – I guess – was already out of production by that time.

Watches In TV Series

Lt. Templeton ‘Faceman’ Peck next to Sgt. Bosco Albert ‘B.A.’ Baracus. Faceman is setting the watch on the next picture.

Watches In TV Series

I am pretty sure that the watch featured in A-Team wasn’t sponsored by OMEGA or a jeweler. The same goes for a German 1980s and 1990s krimi called Derrick. Inspector Derrick always wore a fine watch (Rolex and in some occasions an IWC DaVinci). We did a special report on Derrick and his watches in 2005 already, click here to read it. I am not sure whether this TV show (with +180 episodes) aired outside Europe though. I am convinced that Inspector Derrick (Horst Tappert) was wearing Rolex watches from his personal collection.

Another famous TV show from back in the days is Miami Vice. Although Don Johnson is well known for wearing a (fake) gold Rolex Day-Date, he also wore an Ebel 1911 chronograph with a Zenith El Primero movement. In gold/steel of course, that’s how they rolled in the 1980s. Sponsored? I don’t think so. To demonstrate how these things change during the years, The Miami Vice movie that was done just a few years ago though, had IWC watches all over the place and was clearly sponsored.

Watches In TV Series

Is this product placement a bad thing? Of course not! Times are just changing and people pay attention to these details. Watch brands can exaggerate a bit, but in the case of Jaeger-LeCoulte and their Mad Men special (restricted to 25 pieces only, to be released in February), this isn’t the case. They didn’t overdo it. Although I have seen all episodes, I did not spot a JLC Reverso though, but I am assured it was in there.

Watches In TV Series

Although watches in movies have been covered a lot on various websites and watch forums, it seems that information about watches in TV Series are a bit scattered. Luckily, the guys from the Watches in Movies website have a special section for TV shows.



Photo Essay: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Once in a very, very rare blue moon, a truly amazing piece crosses your way. This is one of them: The Mother Of All Reversos. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. A double-axis tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring; reserve de march and date indicators. 373 parts and 58 jewels keep everything turning. Oh, and it runs for 50 hours off one massive single barrel. As you would expect, the case is truly enormous to accommodate most of all the spherically shaped tourbillon; the movement alone is 11.1mm thick, accommodate in a case around 16mm thick. The case is so massive there’s a secondary integrated lock slider near the crown to prevent accidental reversing.

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2
Click all images for larger versions.

A watch like this transcends practicality and sits very much in the rarefied field of art, so I won’t attempt to comment on pedestrian things like its water resistance; it just isn’t important. Besides, I would seriously question the sanity of a person who chooses to go swimming with a six figure complication on a leather strap. They should immediately have all their watches confiscated by some higher horological authority. Suffice to say the piece has enormous wrist presence; it’s our horological bling in the best possible way. I personally love how the movement itself forms the dial, allowing you to appreciate the variations in surface finishing (clous de Paris, anglage, perlage, matte, brushed, polished…it’s all there) and the tourbillon itself.

In fact, I believe one of the very reasons the watch does not have a dial is to keep the thickness down due to the tourbillon; it appears that the cage is the thickest part of the movement. And what a cage! Two axes of rotation, different periods. I would imagine the end point of the tourbillon would probably trace a path covering all points on a sphere, if one were inclined to wait long enough. It’s actually quite a challenge to photograph this movement (and hugely more so to regulate it) because the tourbillon doesn’t stop. Your final composition is a bit of a surprise, because the cage keeps moving. I guess the barrel has to be blocked or a tool used to stop rotation to adjust the rate of the watch.

More information: www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

Enough words. Enjoy the images! MT

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

 

© Copyright 2012 Fratellowatches · All Rights Reserved.