Ace Jewelers




Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (Ref 26564)

The Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (reference 26564) is one of those watches that will never be in my financial reach, but nevertheless very enjoyable to see and to try on my wrists. It is one of those advantages if you are going to SIHH or BaselWorld, you are able to see and try watches that have 5 digit (sometimes even more) price tags.

The Tradition timepiece clearly shows that Audemars Piguet is more than the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore watches. Although being the best sellers of their collection, the Tradition and Millenary collections are definitely worth investigating as well for those who are looking for classic and / or high-end timepieces.

Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (Ref 26564)

Normally, I think the Tradition collection consists of watches executed in precious metals. This Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph is quite different from the other Tradition models I have seen. The case is huge for instance. Although 47mm is not that exceptional anymore, it is for a classic timepiece like this. Also, the case of the version I discuss here is crafted in titanium. There will be a version of this watch in pink gold as well. Limited to 10 pieces each. Both versions have white gold elements as well, as on this titanium version, the crown, pushers and case back.

There is a reason for the size of the Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph, which is the minute repeater complication. The large case maximises the sound volume of the minute repeater, as the Audemars Piguet representative demonstrated to me in Geneva.

The back side of the Audemars Piguet Tradition reference 26564 looks like this:

Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (Ref 26564)

The sapphire crystal on the back side gives us a view on the AP caliber 2874 movement. Proof that Audemars Piguet is not only about Royal Oak Offshore sports watches and chronograph module movements, but certainly plays a role in the highest regions of premier league watchmaking. Audemars Piguet timepieces like this proof that they shouldn’t be regarded less than the likes of Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe.

The hand-wound AP caliber 2874 movement consists of 504 parts, the tourbillon cage alone has 83 parts. The finish is impeccable and all done by hand. For instance, the hammers of the minute repeater mechanism have a mirror polish and beveled angles. According to the AP press release, the watchmakers in Le Brassus joke that even “a glance is enough to scratch it”. I wonder whether the same joke goes around for the bezel of the stainless steel Royal Oak models though.

Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (Ref 26564)

Anyway, this 13 1/4 ligne or 29.90mm movement has 38 jewels, a power reserve of 48 hours and measures 7.65mm in height. The column-wheel chronograph has, as you can see on the first photograph, a large seconds hand and a 30 minute counter positioned on the right of the center pinion. The two white gold pushers are there to start, stop and reset the chronograph mechanism. The slider on the left operates the minute repeater, that will strike the current time using two gongs.

Even though I am very interested in the technical aspects of watchmaking and love a good complication or two,  what intrigues me most however, is the shape and finish of the Tradition case. Audemars Piguet states that it grabs back to the 1920s cushion-shaped pocket watches they had in their Audemars Piguet museum in Le Brassus. However, there have been – and still are – Tradition wrist watches in the AP collection before this new Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph was introduced.

Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (Ref 26564)

The perfectly crafted silvered opaline dial and pink gold applied hour markers in combination with the brushed bezel of the case are just stunning to me. The other Tradition wristwatches that Audemars Piguet produces are the Tradition Extra Thin, Tradition Perpetual Calendar and the Tradition Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater. These models have the same superb finish on dial and bezel and just look awesome to me.

Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (Ref 26564)

Somehow, the Tradition collection never got much public attention and I hope this will change because of this latest addition, the Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph.

The price for this Audemars Piguet Tradition Tourbillon Minute Repeater Chronograph (26564IC.OO.D002CR.01) is set to approximately $470,000.- USD.

More information can be found here: www.audemarspiguet.com/en/watch-collection/tradition-collections/classic-minute-repeater-tourbillon-chronograph-2

Article written by Robert-Jan Broer for .



Photo Essay: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

I think most collectors will be familiar with the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon line; it is one of the most accessible entry points for this complication, and finished to a higher level than JLC’s already excellent regular pieces. But it’s unlikely that you will have ever seen these particular examples, from the Haute Joallerie and fine art lines – special pieces that are made in extremely limited numbers and never seen outside the boutiques. Much more artisanal handwork is required than normal, from the cutting of the rare stone dial to inlaying of the diamonds to guilloching and enameling the dials; I personally much prefer the non-jewellery versions, but the aventurine stone dial has great depth and ‘pop’.

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons
Left to right: Master Tourbillon enamels; Master Tourbillon Haute Joallerie Aventurine

Enjoy the photos! All images may be clicked on for larger versions, as usual. MT

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons

Photo Essay: The Jaeger LeCoultre Master Tourbillons



Photo Essay: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Once in a very, very rare blue moon, a truly amazing piece crosses your way. This is one of them: The Mother Of All Reversos. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. A double-axis tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring; reserve de march and date indicators. 373 parts and 58 jewels keep everything turning. Oh, and it runs for 50 hours off one massive single barrel. As you would expect, the case is truly enormous to accommodate most of all the spherically shaped tourbillon; the movement alone is 11.1mm thick, accommodate in a case around 16mm thick. The case is so massive there’s a secondary integrated lock slider near the crown to prevent accidental reversing.

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2
Click all images for larger versions.

A watch like this transcends practicality and sits very much in the rarefied field of art, so I won’t attempt to comment on pedestrian things like its water resistance; it just isn’t important. Besides, I would seriously question the sanity of a person who chooses to go swimming with a six figure complication on a leather strap. They should immediately have all their watches confiscated by some higher horological authority. Suffice to say the piece has enormous wrist presence; it’s our horological bling in the best possible way. I personally love how the movement itself forms the dial, allowing you to appreciate the variations in surface finishing (clous de Paris, anglage, perlage, matte, brushed, polished…it’s all there) and the tourbillon itself.

In fact, I believe one of the very reasons the watch does not have a dial is to keep the thickness down due to the tourbillon; it appears that the cage is the thickest part of the movement. And what a cage! Two axes of rotation, different periods. I would imagine the end point of the tourbillon would probably trace a path covering all points on a sphere, if one were inclined to wait long enough. It’s actually quite a challenge to photograph this movement (and hugely more so to regulate it) because the tourbillon doesn’t stop. Your final composition is a bit of a surprise, because the cage keeps moving. I guess the barrel has to be blocked or a tool used to stop rotation to adjust the rate of the watch.

More information: www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

Enough words. Enjoy the images! MT

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Photo Essay: Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

 

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