Ace Jewelers




Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet – Also For Patina Fans

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Extreme Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet

During the SIHH 2013 exhibition in Geneva, I already put on-line some pictures of this watch on our #instagram account. However, there was no time yet to write something decent about the Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet watches. Undeserved.

Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet   Also For Patina Fans

I love chronographs, especially vintage ones. This Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph has clearly been inspired by their 1950s Memovox Deep Sea models. Although I like the alarm complication, I rather have a chronograph watch to be honest. This Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet comes in two different models. The one pictured above and the ‘Vintage’ edition (pictured below). The vintage looking model has a nice patina look on the hour markers, hands and bezel.

Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet   Also For Patina Fans

Jaeger-LeCoultre Cermet Case

Both watches have the same specifications, a grained dial, an in-house developed Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 758 chronograph movement and the cermet case. The Cermet case is a high-tech material that consists of aluminium reinforced with tiny parts of ceramic. The case is then being protected with a coating layer of ceramic. Besides being very light, the Cermet material should also be resistant to scratches.

Although the case size of 44mm might sound big, I’ve found it to be quite comfortable on my wrist. Also due to the elegant shape of the case and the textile strap that comes with it.

Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet   Also For Patina Fans

Chronograph Operation Indicator

You have probably noticed the white round aperture on the dial of this Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Extreme Deep Sea Chronograph. In our photos, it is white. However, it also has two other positions, which are red and red & white. White means that the chronograph is not in use (zeroed) and ready for use. When the chronograph is being started, the aperture will turn red & white. This means that the chrono is in use. When stopped, the aperture turns red.

Jaeger-LeCoultre implemented this chronograph operation indicator because a diver should be able to see in a glance whether the chronograph is either running, stopped or ready for use.

Jaeger LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph Cermet   Also For Patina Fans

Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph 208A570 and 208A57J

Like I wrote before, both timepieces have the same technical specifications and only differ in some aesthetics. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Deep Sea Chronograph 208A570 is the ‘normal’ version with white hour markers, bezel printing and hands. The reference 207A57J is the vintage version, with yellow-ish patina on the hour markers, hands and bezel. It is a matter of taste really, although we all know that modern luminous material will never discolour like tritium does. Jaeger-LeCoultre is not the first manufacturer that creates artificial patina, but I actually like the look of it.

There is no difference in price of these watches. Both have a 10.000,- Euro price tag on them.

More information, visit www.jaeger-lecoultre.com.



Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

The Reverso collection is so iconic, it almost doesn’t need any further introduction. However, for those who never took the time to read about one of the most famous rectangular watches, here’s a little background:

The design for this reversible watch dates back to the 1930s, 1931 to be precise. Polo players were sick and tired of broken and damaged crystals on their timepieces when playing this noble game. Jaeger-LeCoultre came up with the idea of making it possible to flip the watch on your wrist, so that the crystal was protected from serious beatings. In 1931, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced (and patented) the Reverso watch. Through the decades, the Reverso developed and grew out to become the elegant watch it is now.

In 2011, Jaeger-LeCoultre celebrated the 80th anniversary of the Reverso collection. During the SIHH 2011 in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre commemorated this anniversary with this Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 model. Jaeger-LeCoultre takes the ultra thin definition quite seriously, the Reverso is only 7.2mm thick.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Tribute to 1931 Reference 2788570

Jaeger-LeCoultre in The Netherlands lend us their Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 for a week. This gave me some time to do some hands-on experience with this timepiece and our photographer Bert Buijsrogge to get it in front of his camera lens. I had tried a Reverso before a few years ago, from my colleague Frank Geelen of the Monochrome blog, who had one (Grande Date 8 – days if I’m not mistaken) in his private collection. Although I loved the appearance of the Reverso, I found the watch to be a bit too thick. This ultra thin Tribute to 1931 ref. 2788570 model sounded like a perfect opportunity to give the Reverso another chance.

Colleague Ming Thein, who’s a huge Jaeger-LeCoultre fan, already did a write-up on the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 and Reverso Classique here on Fratellowatches. His posts certainly made me even more enthusiastic about the Reverso, so I was very eager to give the Tribute to 1931 model a spin.

Although I can physically handle any Reverso I’m afraid, I have a weak spot for ultra thin watches. I find them very elegant, even on fairly large wrists. You don’t always need a large watch in my humble opinion, even though you can easily handle one.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Fits Like a Glove

With modest dimensions of 46mm in length, 27.5mm in width and only 7.2 in height, this watch will fit almost anyone. Although 46mm seems big, it will fit a normal wrist easily. The ratio of the Reverso is just perfect, especially with the ultra thin case.

In my case, this Reverso fits me like a glove. The thin case is so comfortable, especially in combination with the beautiful alligator strap. I wonder if I ever would reverse the case on my wrist, it is very easy to do so. Just grab the right side of the watch, pull it and slide the left side of the case through the right side and turn the crown side of the watch all the way to the left. And click. A bit difficult to explain in words, but the picture below probably makes more sense.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

An Icon Within An Icon

It is not easy to define or even to explain what makes a watch an icon. Much like the X-Factor. The Reverso however, is clearly a watch that deserved the status of being an icon a long time ago already. Together with the Cartier Tank, it is the most recognizable rectangular watch out there. Jaeger-LeCoultre has quite a large number of variations of the Reverso and it is also a strong collection for ladies. These variations range from the hours and minutes only, like this Reverso Tribute to 1931 model, to models that have a minute repeater and tourbillon complication. Although these latter models certainly have the appearance of the iconic Reverso, I believe that this ultra thin Tribute to 1931 model will become an icon itself. The clean Art Deco style dial, the influences of the original Reverso and of course the thin case make this a Reverso that definitely stands out in my opinion.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

The Flip Side

As explained above, it is very easy to reverse the case of this watch. As you can see on one of the pictures above, the part that would be normally considered as the inner case back, is finished with beautiful perlage. Although the in-house developed movement caliber 822 is worth looking at, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to stay close to the original and kept the case closed. The high polish finish of the case looks wonderful and leaves room for a personal inscription, family weapon or other kind of engraving.

The brushed finish on the case back has a serene appearance, but does feature a few engravings and markings. Where we didn’t find the brand name on the front, the case back does mention the company from Le Sentier and the fact that it is a Reverso. Something which wasn’t necessary, but it doesn’t bother me as well. As you can see on the photo below, the watch is also water resistant to 3 bar (30 meters) and was subject to a 1000 hours of control by the watch makers of Jaeger-LeCoultre. Other than with the Chronometer rating (COSC), the Jaeger-LeCoultre watches are being tested for accuracy in their cases instead of testing the movements only.

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

Jaeger LeCoultre Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Tribute To 1931 Review

This Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute to 1931 was on my wrist for one week and it was very difficult to let it go. It is clearly something different from many other watches out there that are considered to be an icon (like a Submariner, Speedmaster, Royal Oak, Nautilus or even a Tank). If you are a regular reader of this blog, you will know that I am a sucker for iconic watches. This Reverso would blend in perfectly in my modest collection of watches.

It was quite an experience wearing this rectangular beauty from Jaeger-LeCoultre, as it gave me a total different feel than the other Reverso I’d tried in the past. The thin case almost integrates seamlessly with the nice black alligator strap  (and stainless steel buckle). The elegant appearance makes this watch perfect company for formal occasions or when wearing a shirt and tie. I have to be honest and tell you that I really had to get used wearing this watch with a casual outfit. You can get away with it of course, but keep in mind that the alligator strap and high polished thin case will attract attention when wearing a t-shirt or a polo shirt.

List price of 6.250,- Euro (including VAT) / $ 7,800.- USD (excluding VAT)

More information can be found on the official Jaeger-LeCoultre website.

All photos in this article can be clicked for a larger version.



FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

People love to see Top x lists, so we gathered the Top 10 best read articles in 2012 here on Fratellowatches. We also would like to take the opportunity to thank you for your interest in Fratellowatches in 2012. We had more visits than ever before! We hope to take you aboard for 2013 as well and surprise you with some cool and interesting upcoming features!

Number 1: Review of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 9300

This watch was introduced in 2011 and we received one from Omega to try & test it later that year. It was and still is one of my most favorite modern timepieces. If I had one modern watch to pick in the 5000 – 6000 Euro price range, this would be it.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 2. Rolex Datejust II – The New Cool

While I wasn’t very positive about the new Datejust II when it was first introduced, having it on the wrist for a week changed my opinion drastically. Although I have a Datejust in my own collection, I hardly wear it due to the size of 36mm. This new 41mm Datejust II would definitely be a welcome replacement.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 3. OMEGA Speedmaster “First Omega In Space” 1962 – BaselWorld 2012

A watch that was introduced in 2012 and of which we already knew it was coming before BaselWorld started. One of the best retro or re-editions in our book. We love the size, dial, straight lugs and strap. Point of criticism? The sapphire crystal and the heavily decorated caseback. A bit more expensive than the regular ‘Moonwatch’, but if price isn’t an issue, consider this one!

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 4. Don Draper’s Omega Seamaster

One of my favorite TV series is Mad Men. In the earlier seasons, you could spot Don Draper (one of the main characters) wearing a Rolex Explorer. In season 5, he’s wearing an Omega Seamaster Deville with black dial. I didn’t expect such an incredible interest for this particular post, but it shows how popular Mad Men is. Or perhaps how popular the Seamaster Deville is.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 5. Fasten Your Seatbelts – Rolex GMT-Master History

This item was a lot of fun to create. Dennis and I put Bert in a small aircraft and let him do the photoshoot. Quite some wind and a light weight airplane were the ingredients for success. That, and over 20 GMT-Masters from the very first reference number till the most recent models, resulted in an article featuring a historical overview of the Rolex GMT-Master and some great photos taken from the sky.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 6. Patek Philippe Nautilus With White Dials

Also introduced during BaselWorld 2012, the stainless steel men’s Nautilus watches by Patek Philippe with white dials. Although we love the original blue/green-ish color of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the white dials are hard to go wrong with either. Actually, you need both.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 7. We’ve Found An Astronaut’s Speedmaster

Although ranked no.7, keep in mind that the other posts in 2012 were earlier and had more time to collect ‘views’. In October, we found the Omega Speedmaster Professional that was worn by Reinhard Furrer (astronaut that was on Space Shuttle mission STS-61-A in 1985). Actually, I had the Speedmaster here in my possession for a few weeks and I have to say it really gave me a feel of magic when wearing it, knowing it was used and worn in space by an astronaut. I think this particular article belongs to my personal top 3 here in Fratellowatches.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 8. Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700/1A – The Grail

The Grail watch for many watch enthusiasts, the enfant terrible for a lot of Patek Philippe collectors and admirers, the stainless steel Nautilus. This particular ref.3700/1A dates back to 1977, one of the first Nautilus watches. It has the same movement as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ and the first Vacheron Constantin ’222′ (later on: Overseas). One of our friends happily supplied us with some picture of his Grail watch.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012Click here for the article

Number 9. Tissot Visodate – An Absolute Dress Watch Bargain!

This actually shows how popular the entry-level luxury brands are! This Tissot Visodate really suprised us what you can get for less than 500 Euro. A fun watch to wear, great value for money and a very nice ‘retro’ design. The Tissot Visodate would be our pick for watches below 500 Euro. The only thing we would change is the (cheap-ish) strap.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Number 10. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Geographic Hands On

With a weak spot for watches with extra timezones (GMT or world timer watches), I was more than happy to test-drive the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Geographic watch. With some healthy doubts about the Master Compressor collection, I was positively surprised by this versatile timepiece. The Master Compressor Geographic on a leather strap would be a perfect travel companion. Again, the high number of visits to this article in 2012 was quite amazing given the fact that the Master Compressor is not the most popular collection of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

FratelloWatches Top 10 Most Popular Posts Of 2012

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Again, thank you all for your interest in our articles, items, features and reviews here on FW. Also, make sure to LIKE our Facebook page and have a peek in our photo albums over there and sneak preview pictures of watches that are being reviewed or discussed here on FW.

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