Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon In Pink Gold
Throughout its 190-year history, Jaeger-LeCoultre has regularly undergone shifting pursuits. When the brand settles into a role as a maker of Haute Horlogerie calibers, avant-garde creations the Gyrotourbillons are the order of the day. Or, as seen in the early to mid-2000s, JLC can also produce competent sports and automotive-inspired wrist machines. But even with these dramatic shifts in approach, two hallmarks tend to endure — the Reverso and elegant round wristwatches. This new pink gold Master Ultra Thin Moon exhibits the latter in conjunction with a sumptuous gradient midnight-blue dial with a sunray finish.
The Master collection is the traditional round watch of the Jaeger-LeCoultre roster. And while the complications and dials vary wildly, the round case persists. At 6 o’clock, the sub-dial indicates the date via an exquisitely thin triangular hand, with numerals emblazoned on a contrasting textured ring. The “Moon” aspect of the model name refers to the moonphase indication within in this sub-dial. This complication indicates a waxing, waning, full, and new Moon rotating in correlation with our Moon’s 29.5-day lunar cycle. While it is easy to tell if the Moon is full, it’s not as easy to track whether it’s waxing (new to full) or waning (full to new) merely by looking at it in the sky. This is why a moonphase indicator provides an easy-to-read display in a clockwise direction for the Moon’s cycle.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon
The Moon disc is polished 18K polished pink gold, consistent with the polished hands and applied triangular hour markers. This gold tone balances beautifully with the smoky midnight-blue dial that darkens toward the edges. By mixing these color tones, the moonphase display closely resembles an orange-reddish Moon when it’s low on the horizon against a midnight-blue sky. With the addition of laser-etched gold stars, the motif is reminiscent of our night sky at certain times of the year. In addition, the sunray finish will reflect and bend the light, producing a shimmering effect and further emphasizing nature’s inspiration.
Another aspect of the name is the “Ultra Thin” moniker. This name may be slightly misleading as 9.3mm is within a fairly standard range for thickness with dress watches of this style. That’s not to say that I feel this watch is thick by any means, but “Ultra Thin” implies that it belongs in a category alongside the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo or Piaget Altiplano, which are both in the realm of 4–5mm thick. I know the Master Ultra Thin name is a historic description for the collection since the days of pocket watches, but here, it detracts somewhat from the expectations that the term conjures.
Final specs and pricing
The 39mm 18K pink gold case has a sapphire display case back to view the pink gold automatic (or “Automatique,” as the dial reminds you) oscillating rotor. Beating away inside is the JLC 925 caliber with an ample 70-hour power reserve, a welcome improvement over the time-and-date Master Ultra Thin’s 38-hour power reserve. However, I believe the movement-to-case-back ratio is somewhat imbalanced, where the window looks small against the 39mm case. I also feel that the pin-pusher correctors at 8 and 4 o’clock for the date and moonphase complications could’ve been more subtly integrated into the crown adjustments. Whether additional crown settings would have increased the caliber size horizontally or vertically is a technical question for JLC. But I would’ve preferred a cleaner, more flowing case band without disruptive correctors.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon in pink gold with blue dial comes on a 21mm deep blue alligator leather strap with quick-release spring bars and pink gold pin buckle. This new addition to the collection is available for €25,100 (including VAT) / US$23,000 (before taxes), and you can learn more about the watch on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s website here.