Hands-On With The New Serica 5303 PLD — Made In Collaboration With The French Navy

Did you know an amagnetic mechanical watch is a key part of an EOD (Explosive Ordnance Disposal) diver’s equipment? Admittedly, I didn’t. However, as it turns out, the slightest magnetic disturbance can set off explosives, rendering any battery-powered watch dangerous to EOD divers. Because of this, the French Navy turned to Serica for an amagnetic mechanical alternative. I got a chance to go hands-on with the new Serica 5303 PLD.

The Serica 5303 PLD can be ordered starting May 20th, 2025. This new version of Serica’s diver costs €1,690 and comes with the familiar mesh bracelet and a secondary elastic Serica PLD strap. Let’s have a closer look!

The Serica 5303 PLD shares most of its specs with the regular 5303

If you are familiar with Serica’s 5303 diver, the PLD package will look and feel familiar. It is, after all, a relatively modest adaptation of the French brand’s core dive model. You still get a 39mm stainless diver with 12.2mm thickness and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. Serica rates its water resistance at 300 meters thanks to a thick sapphire crystal up top and an all-steel case back.

The original 5303

Inside ticks the Soprod caliber M100. This is a drop-in alternative to the ETA 2892-A2, although it isn’t an exact clone. This movement from the Festina Group comes with a 42-hour power reserve and ticks at a 4Hz (28,800vph) frequency. Serica provides regulation within COSC standards, and the watch is certified accordingly.

While the Serica 5303 PLD comes with a secondary strap, the mesh bracelet is probably your first option. Frankly, I find this the weakest link in the package. Although the mesh with its fitted end links certainly looks suave, it isn’t the greatest in terms of ease of use, and it feels a bit dainty, especially for a military-themed watch.

The Serica 5303 PLD treatment

So, what’s new about the PLD version of the 5303 for the French Navy divers? The most obvious thing to jump out is the new bezel color. The team at Serica tends to nail the use of colors, and this is no exception. You get a dark, slightly grayish blue, making for a very classy and versatile look. Speaking of the bezel, the regular 5303’s minute and hour scales make way for a “maximum dive time” scale. The bezel displays the maximum allowed operation time for a range of depths.

The other differences are more subtle. The seconds hand, for instance, received a bit of a steroid treatment. The resulting fat lollipop aids in legibility with its thicker lume plot. Keen observers might also note the “amagnétique” signature at 6. As mentioned in the opening paragraph, that is a key bit of information for the Serica 5303 PLD’s target audience.

Lastly, the additional elastic strap represents Serica’s take on a French Navy classic. The fabric loop closes with custom brushed Serica hardware, completing an attractive package.

Wearing the Serica 5303 PLD

It is no secret that I am a fan of Serica’s aesthetic. I get why it would be divisive, but I like the mid-century vibe with modern design quirks. When I first unpacked the new Serica 5303 PLD, I instantly connected with the watch. It feels special, and I find it very attractive. The odd color combination of a blue bezel with a khaki-green and yellow strap makes it look as if I put it on a random strap from my collection myself. Interestingly, I found this makes it feel worn in and familiar straight away. The comfort offered by this kind of elastic strap only helps that experience.

I have always been a fan of the 5303 and its proportions. It feels ever so slightly tubby in a likable and sympathetic way, especially with the added layers of fabric underneath. I also find it wears fairly small for its 39mm diameter, which I like.

Although the PLD certainly gives off a tool-watch vibe, it is also still very much a Serica. That means it oozes Parisian flair and style. I guess the refined little details, like the split bezel and nicely curved lugs, provide a bit of je ne sais quoi. Or maybe I am just projecting. In any case, a tool watch from Serica never feels clinical like, say, a Sinn.

This also means I struggle a little bit with the military theme. I am still unsure whether that’s what I want from Serica or whether it is better left to other brands. Still, I fully understand that any young brand would jump at the chance to collaborate with a military unit, even if only for the street cred it provides.

Closing thoughts

I greatly admire Serica’s strength in conveying a specific image through its watches. The aesthetic is so specific that you will recognize a Serica from across the room. That’s no mean feat, especially when you lean on a vintage design language at the same time. Serica finds a unique signature, creating something that stands alone. The fact that this design language isn’t for everyone only speaks for the brand. It is better to be great to some than to be mediocre to everybody.

I could see myself driving an old Citroën DS down to a lovely French harbor town, boarding a small boat, and going out for a dive in turquoise waters before lunch while wearing the Serica 5303 PLD. That’s precisely the kind of spell this watch puts on me. That is also rather far removed from naval EOD operations. Is the 5303 PLD too elegant for its intended purpose? Or is Serica simply too suave to be considered a military supplier? Or is it all in my head, and should we simply embrace stylish military watches from the Parisian brand?

I honestly don’t know. But I like the watch a lot!

What do you think of the new Serica 5303 PLD? Let us know in the comments section below!