This Week in Watches — February 22, 2020
IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher
IWC Schaffhausen has unveiled the Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher “Laureus Sport for Good” Edition. With this limited model, the Swiss watch manufacturer continues its support of social sports projects run by its partner. IWC has been a partner of the Laureus Sport for Good Foundation since 2005. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher bears reference 515301 and is IWC’s 14th Laureus special edition watch. You’ll find our review of one of the earlier editions, the Da Vinci Chronograph Laureus, here.
This special edition watch, limited to 500 pieces, is the first model in the Portugieser range with a mono-pusher chronograph. The watch features a stainless steel case and a characteristic Laureus-blue dial. This watch uses the IWC in-house manufactured hand-wound 59360 caliber, which has an eight-day power reserve. The chronograph can be started, stopped, and reset with a single push-button integrated into the crown. Engraved on the back of the watch is the winning design from the annual IWC drawing competition for participants of Laureus projects. The price for one of the 500 pieces will be CHF 17,000. More information, as well as the possibility to order, check out IWC’s website.
Undone × Simple Union
Undone introduced their second collaboration with local craft house, Simple Union — a specialist in Katazome fabrics. Katazome is a traditional Japanese dyeing method that originated in the Edo Period, which began in 1603. Simple Union will produce unique hand-made straps from over 100 years old fabric materials, which also sport Undone’s quick-release system.
Alongside these straps, Undone introduces their first-ever bronze cased Basecamp model, named 無2 (MŪ2). Bronze was chosen for its unique patina/aging process, which perfectly complements the Katazome straps. The case measures 40 mm in diameter, 48 mm lug-to-lug, and has a 20 mm strap width. Its height is 15 mm from the case back to the top of the double-domed Lexan polycarbonate crystal. The smooth-rotating bezel and insert are also bronze. Powering the Basecamp MŪ2 is the Seiko Instruments NH35a caliber. A self-winding, hacking, workhorse movement displaying the time in a three-hand format. 300 pieces of the Undone Basecamp Bronze MŪ2 will be available for pre-order at the Undone website, from February 29th onwards. The price will be $395 and delivery is foreseen for the end of March of this year.
Junghans Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus
Bauhaus celebrated its 100th-anniversary last year. An occasion that was celebrated by numerous watch manufacturers, including Uhrenfabrik Junghans, with the release of special limited edition pieces. Junghans enjoys particular connectivity with the Bauhaus school thanks to Max Bill. The late Bauhaus co-founder was designing watches for Junghans as far back as 1961. After we’ve seen various anniversary limited editions last year, Junghans now continues with the new Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus in their regular collection.
The case of this new model measures 38.0 mm with a height of only 10.0 mm. Junghans uses a convex sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The case back is decorated with a see-through Bauhaus motif. Matching the luminous hands, the date indication is printed in red as well. The reference number of this watch is 027/4009.02 and it will be priced at $1,325. For more information please visit www.junghans.de.
NOMOS Glashütte New Colorful Tetra Quartet
NOMOS Glashütte pays tribute to Ludwig von Beethoven. Fall 2020 will mark the 250th birthday of the renowned classical composer. Clearly, NOMOS didn’t want to be late for the party. No less than four colorful Tetra models have been introduced this week. Their names? Ode to Joy (Ode an die Freude), Immortal Beloved (Unsterbliche Geliebte), Fidelio (Fidelio), and Divine Spark (Götterfunken). Tetra is NOMOS Glashütte’s classic 29.5×29.5mm square model, powered by hand-winding Alpha caliber. The tried and tested mechanical movement, that powers many of the manual watches from NOMOS Glashütte, can be seen at work through the sapphire crystal glass backs.
The dials of the new quartet will come in four colors — olive green, turquoise, dark blue, and copper. The watches in this Tetra Symphony series will be available for $2,380 at selected Nomos retailers from the end of February.
An exhibition of J-C. Biver’s personal watch collection
The last news we would like to share with you this week is about an interesting exhibition. Phillips — yes, the auction house “in Association with Bacs & Russo” — will present the “Jean-Claude Biver: A Retrospective. Share, Respect, Forgive” exhibition in London. This exhibition started in Geneva in November 2019 and has since toured in Hong Kong and New York. Models presented include exceptional pieces of horology made by some of the world’s most important watchmakers as well as brands Mr. Biver represented in the past.
The exhibition will run from February 24 to 28, 2020, and is held at 30 Berkeley Square, London, W1J 6EX. It’s open to the public and the entry is free. For those who aren’t able to attend, Fratello’s Ben Hodges will be there on Tuesday and will write a report on the event for Fratello.
We would love to hear your comments on the new watches presented in this article. For instance, the crown of the IWC Monopushers seems enormous, what is your opinion? What do you think of textile straps, like the ones Undone offers now? Do you think the price level of the new Nomos Tetra quartet is adequate? Don’t hesitate, leave your comment below!