Falling In Love All Over Again With The Green-Dial Version Of The Credor Locomotive
If you are a regular reader of Fratello, you might be aware that I adore the Credor Locomotive. Gérald Genta’s remarkable creation is one of those standout watches that most either love or hate. There seems to be no middle ground when it comes to the watch’s extravagant looks. I was fortunate enough to spend some time with the first modern version of the Locomotive about a year ago, and it left me seriously impressed. It proved that Genta was an absolute master of proportions, giving the watch so much impact on the wrist. So it comes as no surprise that I was delighted to take the follow-up for a spin. With a beautiful green dial, this first modern regular-production model is more proof that the Locomotive is truly special.
When the new Credor Locomotive landed on my desk, it was almost like greeting an old friend. I say “almost” because the watch still feels fresh and new. In particular, the clever green dial is a great new addition that presents a different aesthetic compared to last year’s limited edition. But overall, the familiar look of the case and bracelet feels like coming home. In last year’s article, I explained that my initial bewilderment and intrigue quickly made way for admiration and love for Gérald Genta’s unique-looking creation. Not only is it the missing link in Genta’s quest for design symmetry, but it also proved to be an absolute joy to wear. So was this new version going to be any different?
The story of the green-dial Credor Locomotive
This latest Credor Locomotive is important for two reasons. First, it introduces a new green dial featuring an intricate hexagonal pattern. Second, this is the first regular-production Locomotive in the modern era. Last year’s model was limited to 300 individually numbered pieces for true fans. That watch honored Genta’s original design from the late 1970s with a modern remake of the dial that Genta put on paper in his first sketches.
On top of this watch being the first modern regular-production Locomotive, Credor also announced that it is the first watch in a new series of design-focused timepieces for the brand. When I read that, it added immediate excitement to the release. I can’t wait to see what that leads to. I only hope that Credor can surprise us with a series of expertly designed watches that will increase the appeal of the Japanese brand.
The details of the new Credor Locomotive
Let’s zoom in on the specs quickly before focusing on the dial. This Locomotive features the same set of specs as last year’s version. It has a 38.8mm high-intensity titanium case with a 41.7mm length and a svelte 8.9mm profile. This hexagonal case with its characteristic hex-socket bezel screws features a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock with a similar socket design. It is also water resistant to 100 meters.
The beautifully finished hexagonal case displays the brand’s incredible proficiency in working with titanium. Additionally, the finishing emphasizes the remarkable case and bezel shape. Despite the industrial character, the rounded shapes and beautiful brushed and polished finishes add the necessary refinement.
The lugless case is paired with a not-so-integrated bracelet that connects to the case through central mounting points. This beautiful titanium bracelet has a simple but well-made folding clasp with a push-button release. It’s a brilliantly engineered and executed bracelet that feels soft to the touch and is comfortable to wear.
A seemingly patchwork-like design that works very well
The design takes after the bracelet of the Royal Oak but is a little curvier. Additionally, as I explained in the previous review, the central mounting of the bracelet reminds me of the Cartier Pasha, even though that Genta design came after the original Locomotive. But despite the visual references, the design never feels truly randomly thrown together. I found it feels much more congruent than one might initially think. On the wrist, the watch’s proportions make total sense, and there is a natural balance of visual and tactile elements. As a result, the Credor Locomotive is an absolute joy to wear.
Another immediate eye-catcher is the new dial. This green dial is a step away from the inaugural dark gray/black dial that featured 1,600 radial lines. The color that the Credor designers chose is a nice deep green. Additionally, the hexagonal pattern adds something new. It’s rather intricate and makes it look like Credor used multiple shades of green. That is not the case, though, as the brand only used one color. The magic is in the hexagons, the centers of which contain diagonal lines in two directions. As a result, they give off a different shade depending on how the light hits the dial. It’s a cleverly designed and executed dial that made a lasting impression and that I found myself coming back to again and again.
Wearing the green-dial Credor Locomotive
An element that led to much debate among fans is the Credor CR01 movement. The thin automatic caliber operates at a 28,800vph frequency and offers a 45-hour power reserve. With an indicated accuracy of +15/-10 seconds per day, the performance doesn’t impress on paper.
We know that Seiko and Grand Seiko are generally very conservative with these numbers. Therefore, it makes sense that the CR01 would also be more accurate than the official numbers suggest. Then again, you could ask why the brand didn’t choose to equip the watch with a caliber boasting more impressive accuracy specs.
Most people won’t notice that on the wrist, though. And I must admit that once I put the watch on my wrist, the questions about the caliber quickly dissolved. I had a lot of fun wearing the new Credor Locomotive. I adore the quirky looks that distinguish it from the more conventional Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Ingenieur. It’s the oddball pick, and sometimes that works. It has a ton of charm and repeatedly surprised me.
Why the Locomotive works so well for me
In the days that I had a chance to try the watch out, I even preferred it over the 2024 limited edition. A purist attitude would make the LE the “true” choice since it takes after the original Locomotive. But this new dial is something special.
The unique pattern gives off different colors and vibes from every angle. On top of that, the hexagons refer to the shape of the case and the bracelet, which makes it a logical pattern. Because of this, it also serves as a great starting point to release different versions of this dial. A simple change of color will give it a different presence.
Then again, after seeing two dials, I am sure that Credor can make the Locomotive work with a variety of colors and patterns. The magic for me is in Gérald Genta’s design. He has created a nice canvas that will open the door for a plethora of dial designs.
I also understand that the look of this watch is not for everyone. But Credor did more than bring back the design. Thanks to the lightweight titanium, the new Locomotive also wears like a charm. Add the magnificent bracelet, and you couldn’t ask for a more comfortable modern sports watch. Lastly, the finishing brings a lot of extra detail to all the different elements.
Final thoughts on the new Credor Locomotive
Believe it or not, I would go on record and say that I would pick the Credor Locomotive over any sub-€15,000 integrated-bracelet sports watch. The Credor Locomotive is available for €14,500, and at that price point, it has some stiff competition. Watches like the IWC Ingenieur and the Girard-Perregaux Laureato are great options, but they don’t bring the same smile to my face as the Locomotive does. The sheer fun I had wearing the watch, combined with the fact that this is the hexagonal puzzle piece in Genta’s exploration of shapes, makes the Locomotive a winner for me.