Hands-On With A Trio Of 2024 Panerai Luna Rossa Releases — PAM01405, PAM01466, And PAM1507

Panerai’s Watches and Wonders 2024 campaign was completely centered around the brand’s involvement in the America’s Cup. The brand is a sponsor of the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli team that competes in the prestigious sailing competition. Even the Panerai booth at the fair was one big Luna Rossa fest, with yachting graphics and even a prototype racing boat suspended from the ceiling.

Naturally, all the new watches introduced at the event were Luna Rossa models. I wrote the introduction article before the fair and wore three of them in the meantime. Here’s how we got along!

Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Tourbillon GMT PAM01405

Let’s kick things off with some unobtainium — the Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Tourbillon GMT PAM01405. Panerai will make only 20 of these, and the price is a cool €195,000. So, admittedly, this isn’t exactly very usable consumer advice. Nevertheless, I will gladly make the sacrifice and carry the heavy burden of trying these watches for you, Fratelli!

This is a 45mm Submersible executed in Carbotech, a carbon-fiber-based material that is supposedly extra strong and resistant to wear. I would have dragged the watch across a concrete floor to test this for you, but, apparently, our insurance wouldn’t cover it. The water resistance — this is a Submersible after all — is rated at 300 meters.

The impressive bits are on the inside, though. This is where we find caliber P.2015/T in an open-worked, dial-less frame. There is a tourbillon at 10, a day/night indicator at 3 o’clock, a GMT hand (shaped like sails), and a power reserve indicator on the back. The strap features the signature red stripe associated with the Luna Rossa team.

Surprisingly wearable

When I strapped on the Luna Rossa PAM01405, I immediately noticed how wearable it was. It is a big watch, no doubt, but that is what you expect and want from a Panerai. What I mean is that it isn’t intimidating. Perhaps you know the feeling often triggered by ultra-high-end watches, especially bigger ones. They can be a bit overpowering and cause some anxiety, constantly and uncomfortably occupying your conscience. Maybe I am just proving I am simply too poor to play in this realm.

What I’m trying to say is this watch doesn’t have that. The lightness of the Carbotech surely helps in this respect. It is also still very much a sports watch at heart, regardless of its fancy caliber. The fabric strap, the aesthetics, and the Luna Rossa theme all conspire to make it seem like it can take a beating.

This is a strength, for sure. However, there are two sides to this coin. In all its sporty, utilitarian, down-to-earthness, it doesn’t feel overly special. I would expect a little bit more of a wow factor if I were to spend 200 grand. There is just no pleasing us, is there? Still, I thoroughly appreciate the design of the PAM01405. The skeletonization is very well done, which is anything but a given.

Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01466

On to something a little more mainstream. “Mainstream”? The Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech PAM01466 is still priced at €16,900. Well, at least it isn’t limited! I will not go into all the specifications again here; you can read them in the introduction article if you’d like. Let me stick to the actual wearing experience here for brevity’s sake.

The Luna Rossa Submersible PAM01466’s case material is interesting. This watch is made of titanium, which is then coated in ceramic. “What’s the point?” I hear you ask. Well, according to Panerai, you get the best of both worlds. The material resists scratches like ceramic yet is 10 times more resistant to shattering than full ceramic. It is also still 44% lighter than steel.

So, what is it like? Well, if you had told me it was “regular” ceramic, I would have believed you. And that is a good thing. The material is light, smooth, and rather handsome. This 44mm Submersible has a proud and prominent stance on the wrist. It does work on my 17.5cm wrist. The one thing I dislike about it, though, is the combination of the case and the dial. The case has this tactical, dull look that I adore, but the flashy sunburst on the dial doesn’t gel with it, in my eyes.

Submersible Luna Rossa Titanium GMT PAM01507

The final Luna Rossa model is the most affordable (€12,500). This 42mm watch in titanium is easily the most wearable of the bunch. Behind the blue dial ticks caliber P.900/GMT24H with its GMT complication and running seconds at 9 o’clock. Again, you get a set of sails on the tip of the GMT hand. We also see a similar fabric strap with the signature Luna Rossa stripe.

This is the most “normal” of the bunch regarding how it feels on the wrist. This is, in part, due to the smaller form factor. The familiar look of titanium also helps, contrasting the exotic materials of the other two.

Overall impressions

You may have gathered that I am not overly infatuated with the Luna Rossa releases. These are all very well-made watches, don’t get me wrong. But I feel they are just trying a bit too hard. The Submersible is a watch with significant visual impact. It doesn’t need many added design elements in the form of complications and co-branding. When I look at a base-spec Submersible, I see a design stemming from a certain artistic urge. It has aesthetic relevance, you could say. These new models don’t have the same impact on me. To put it bluntly, I see a bit too much marketing and too little artistry.

In a way, it is unfair to hold this against these new Panerai watches. Why? It’s because there are tons of variations in the collection that are closer to my taste, and I am not generally fond of co-branded or sponsorship-deal-related watches. They always feel a bit contrived to me. Then again, these watches are aimed at an audience of which I’m not a part.

So, would I recommend these Luna Rossa models? Well, yes, with two caveats. First, I assume you are very fond of the America’s Cup and want to express it through your watch. Second, you must be comfortable with rather steep prices, especially compared to competing watches in the segment.

Closing thoughts on the Luna Rossa releases

These watches triggered a lively discussion at Fratello HQ. Who are these co-branded watches for? We concluded that we, as watch enthusiasts, don’t tend to gravitate toward them, whether they’re the Tudor Alinghi models, Omega Olympics specials, or these Panerai Luna Rossa versions. There must be serious commercial value in making them, or they wouldn’t be so commonplace in the watch industry. But they seem to go right over our heads.

What do you think of these three Panerai Luna Rossa models? And about sponsorship specials in general? Let us know in the comments below.