These days, 3D printing is a well-established technique in manufacturing for R&D divisions. I’ll never forget visiting the Triumph factory in Hinckley and seeing how future designs are rendered digitally, then printed into 3D forms. These objects provide a hasty method of producing new bike parts and testing structures instead of forging components in more expensive materials using a time-consuming process. The 3D-printing process also reduces the waste of valuable materials and offers experimentation to test structural rigidity. For the UK-based watch brand Apiar, these techniques form the backbone of its extraordinary sculptures. Born from this advanced engineering, the Apiar Gen1.0 showcases what is possible with these machines through its skeletonized yet structurally sound dial. Let’s see how it holds up.

For the longest time, my understanding of 3D printing was that you start with a block of material and use lasers to sculpt from CAD/CAM instructions. I pictured that machine from Minority Report (2002) that carves out the precog prediction balls. When I discovered that 3D printing instead adds layers to construct an object, the penny dropped. It’s still witchcraft to me, but this process makes a lot more sense in building an internal structure that’s rigid yet lightweight. You see these techniques in children’s toys and high-end manufacturing, such as Bugatti automobiles. The French luxury carmaker uses 3D printing for its suspension components. And similar to Apiar, Bugatti uses AI generative design to create road-going parts that are light and stiff. What’s surprising is how organic these shapes appear rather than manmade patterns. We also see this in Apiar’s Gen1.0.

Apiar Gen1.0 Dawn and Dusk

Apiar Gen1.0

The Gen1.0’s dial is 3D printed in Grade 23 titanium using generative design. Apiar worked with renowned watch designer Max Resnick on the final tweaks to ensure a pleasing pattern. The result resembles a spider’s web with an intricate structure that produces a striking dial. This dial extends to the mid-case to integrate with the outer housing. Like Holthinrichs watches, the majority of the case is 3D printed, with CNC machining on the Grade 5 titanium bezel. Made from Grade 23 titanium (Ti6Al4V), the 39mm case stays slim with a 9.2mm profile. This slenderness makes the Gen1.0 highly wearable for most wrist shapes. Apiar achieves this thinness by limiting the dial proportions yet maintaining strength due to the innovative generative process.

Apiar Gen1.0 Profile 2

In tandem is the relatively svelte La Joux-Perret G101 movement, which we see used across a swathe of independent watch brands. Despite the thin proportions, the movement achieves 68 hours of power reserve and automatic winding. The minute indexes and logo are pad printed onto the sapphire crystal to avoid spoiling the dial arrangement. Where I see room for improvement is a finishing touch of refinement, especially on the outer case. While I am happy to see the process of 3D printing in its raw form on the dial, wearing comfort is a factor. The case should maintain a comfortable feel, even if the tactility of the case is part of the experience.

Final specs and pricing

The Apiar Gen1.0 costs £1,875 (excluding VAT) and comes in two dial configurations — Dusk and Dawn. Dusk has a blue-gray aluminum base dial, with Dawn having a warm brushed gold tone beneath the spider’s web. Apiar is one of the few British brands that can boast 75% manufacturing in the UK, outside of Roger W. Smith. The Strap Tailor makes the 20mm Alcantara strap. Alcantara may be supremely sumptuous to feel, but it’s not waterproof. However, with a 3-bar water resistance rating, the Gen1.0 is not meant for aquatic excursions anyway. You can learn more about the Apiar Gen1.0 via the brand’s website here.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Gen1.0 Dusk and Gen1.0 Dawn
Dial
Top layer additively manufactured with Laser Powder Bed Fusion (L-PBF) process and integrated with mid-case, aluminum base layer CNC machined and anodized in blue-gray (Dusk) or gold tone (Dawn)
Case Material
Grade 23 titanium (Ti6Al4V), made using L-PBF process and CNC machining
Case Dimensions
39mm (diameter) × 43.75mm (lug-to-lug) × 9.2mm (thickness)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Grade 23 Titanium (Ti6Al4V), made using L-PBF process
Movement
La Joux-Perret G101: automatic with manual winding and hacking, 28,800vph frequency, 68-hour power reserve, 24 jewels
Water Resistance
3 bar
Strap
Dove or Orion Grey Alcantara (20/18mm) with titanium pin buckle
Functions
Time only (hours, minutes)
Price
£1,875 (ex. VAT)