Believe me when I say I have one of the coolest jobs in the world. It actually doesn’t feel like work, I am just occupied all day with something I am very passionate about. Fratello has been there since 2004, but it still excites me when I receive a package from A. Lange & Söhne in my office. This time, I asked them if they could provide me with their Saxonia Thin in copper blue. An A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 would be my end-game for sure, but this Saxonia in 39 millimetres with a copper blue dial (looking very similar to aventurine glass) that they showed earlier this year in Geneva is so breath-taking, I had to have it. Even when it is for just two weeks.
This reference 205.086 is part of the Saxonia collection. Where the Lange 1 is perhaps most iconic and their ‘first’ watch in 1994, the Zeitwerk very avantgarde-ish and the Richard Lange models very scientific and pioneering, the Saxonia Thin is their beautiful elegant dress watch. Very thin, as it measures just 6.2mm in height and in this case, with a stunning dial. Without hesitation, the Saxonia Thin is a beautiful and perfect dress watch, but the copper blue dial makes it really stand out. It makes you want it, basically.
While perhaps some of you might think this copper blue dial is a bit feminine, I’d be perfectly fine with that. Then it’s feminine. I couldn’t care less, I would wear this. The white gold case gives the watch quite some weight for its dimensions, so you will be surprised the first time you pick it up. It’s something you would not expect. Imagine if it was a platinum case.
The dial can be perceived as glamorous, with all the glittering going on, but it reminds me of a starry sky. I always had a weak spot for aventurine dials, and this copper blue dial is also simply amazing.
On the wrist, the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin in copper blue is smallish (at least with me), but I think with a suit it would not be a bad thing, at all. I am a bit fed up with all the large and thick watches at the moment, especially when it concerns dress or more classic watches. 39mm is a perfect size for a dress watch, especially when it only has two hands. A lot is happening on the dial, so more hands or a date window would dilute from its beauty. Because that’s really what it is, a beauty.
Now, with a list price of €20.800, it doesn’t come cheap. The regular Saxonia Thin, if we can speak from ‘regular’ when talking about these watches, is around €15.000, so it definitely comes at a higher price with this copper blue dial. The process of creating this copper dial is time-consuming though, and it needs to be done very precisely in order to create the ‘starry sky’ effect. The dial is crafted from solid silver and then coated with a very thin layer of goldstone. A process that was – according to Lange – developed in Venice in the 17th century. This layer of goldstone has very small copper oxide crystals in there, causing the beautiful effect it has. So besides the watch itself, with its stunningly finished hand-wound movement, the dial is a piece of art itself as well.
This is definitely reflected when wearing the A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin in copper blue on the wrist. It constantly gives you the feeling that you have something special there on the blue leather alligator strap. The beautifully polished gold hands can give a great (contrasting) effect on the dial, but in the dark, they turn almost black on a very dark background. So readability isn’t anywhere near your average sports watch, but you bought this for a different reason for sure.
Normally I would say that the movement in an A. Lange & Söhne is just as beautiful as the dial, but in this case, I have to say sorry to the movement makers in Glashütte and credit the dial makers/designers. But all jokes aside, this ultra-thin movement of just 2.9mm in height is just amazing. The finish is impeccable and the hand-engraved balance cock is beautiful as always. This calibre L093.1 consists of 167 parts (21 jewels) and is really a feast for the eyes. With a power reserve of 72 hours, you will manage any occasion with it I guess.
Although I already mentioned the height of the Saxonia Thin in copper blue, 6.2mm, it is good to illustrate what that looks like. The case band has been brushed, the bezel, lugs and caseback are polished white gold. It gives a nice contrast as you can see below. The watch is very thin to wear, which is comfortable and quite an achievement. The downside is, but this depends on your own ‘bodily features’, that if you have hairy wrists, the watch gets a bit lost. It is something you need to try first, for sure.
The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin in copper blue is something special. Perhaps not for everyone out there, but I feel that a lot of watches can use a bit of this glamour, to be honest. Very nicely done, absolutely far away from tacky, it just gives a nice edge to a very classic looking dress watch. To me, this dial makes the Saxonia Thin so much more interesting. In all honesty, I feel that this dial in copper blue is a bit unGerman almost, something you’d expect from a Piaget for example. But I am glad that A. Lange & Söhne did this, it looks amazing and it is combined with the very best in watchmaking that’s being done today. Brilliant!
This watch retails for €20.800,-. Check for availability with your A. Lange & Söhne boutique or retailer.
More information via the official A. Lange & Söhne website.
Ever since he was a young child, Robert-Jan was drawn to watches, even though it were digital Casio and quartz Swatch models at the time. In the mid-1990s, his interest increased when he started to read about mechanical watches in... read more