I didn’t buy a single Speedmaster for the second consecutive year, which feels wrong. However, my hopes are high for 2024, though, after Omega showed us that white-dial Speedmaster on Daniel Craig’s wrist.

Reviewing my watch resolutions from 2023

That said, let’s quickly look back at my watch resolutions of last year (you can find the article here). I had two watches in my mind to purchase in 2023, and although I bought more than two, I only ended up with one from my previous watch resolutions, the Breguet Tradition ref. 7027. Among others, I also added the Straum Jan Mayen Fratello edition with the red dial, our Aquastar Deepstar II collaboration with the pink dial, and an Ebel Sport Classic Chronograph with an El Primero movement. The Breguet was the only purchase that was not spontaneous, though. I spent quite some time searching for the right one for me. It also became the watch that I wore the most out of my recent purchases.

Rolex Milgauss. Image: Amsterdam Watch Company.

The other watch that I included in my article last year was the Rolex Milgauss. And believe me, I tried it (several times) again after that article was published. In the end, though, I concluded that it was not for me after all. No harm done, though. Rolex released a new watch in 2023 that is high on my list now. Now that we got this out of our way, let’s look at 2024.

Actor Daniel Craig — Image: Omega

Watch resolutions for 2024

Not knowing what 2024 will have in store for me, my bet is on the white-dial Speedmaster that I mentioned in this article. Once that one comes out, my order will be in. I assume this watch will have a retail price somewhere between €7,500 and €9,000, probably closer to the latter as it looks like it has a sapphire crystal in the images with Daniel Craig.

RJ's 2024 watch resolutions Rolex GMT-Master II two-tone

Rolex GMT-Master II

Looking at today’s retail prices, I have found myself of two minds about buying new watches. I would love to add last year’s Rolex GMT-Master II in gold or gold and steel, but with the ever-increasing prices, it’s starting to get a bit nonsensical compared to what’s out there in the pre-owned market. Besides moving towards the pre-owned market, I also think that I should let some watches go before I purchase anything else. I have too many watches that seldom see daylight, and I believe that they deserve a better life than that.

Boring watches

Breguet Classique 5157

Breguet Classique 5157

There are several watches that I have been professionally eyeballing in the last months and, in some cases, years. I also mentioned one of them last year, and I tried it again about two months ago. It’s the Breguet Classique 5157. This, to me, is one of the best dress watches out there. The yellow gold model has been discontinued but can be found pre-owned. But I am unsure if I should add another yellow or rose gold dress watch to my collection. Perhaps white gold would also be nice for a change. You certainly have some more strap options with this white metal. This 38mm watch also fits the trend towards smaller watches again. And according to watch designer Emmanuel Gueit, with whom I briefly discussed this topic, it will stay this way for the next five to 10 years.

Rolex GMT-Master 16753 RJ's 2024 watch resolutions

(Neo-)Vintage Rolex GMT-Master II

Another watch to add might be a Rolex GMT-Master II, after all. I can’t get the new model out of my mind, but if that’s not feasible in 2024, I am happy to look at some pre-owned bicolor GMT-Master (II) models with a five-digit reference number. I’d prefer one with a brown dial and a gold and brown bezel on a Jubilee bracelet. I have owned several GMT-Master watches but never in gold or two-tone, so I think it’s time for one of those. It’s a handsome watch that reminds me of the 1980s and ’90s and easily beats some more modern GMT watches in the same price range.

RJ's 2024 watch resolutions Royal Oak Offshore

Emmanuelle Guiet’s Royal Oak Offshore (no. 039), which was auctioned through Phillips

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

I am staying with sports watches for the next pick. Since my colleague Timo purchased his Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore last year, I have been browsing them regularly. I prefer a blue-dial ref. 25721 — aka “The Beast” — but could also settle for a variation like the Offshore Themes Safari. The thing is, I love the Royal Oak bracelets so much that I’d prefer to get one of those. The diameter of the Royal Oak Offshore chronograph I am looking at is 42mm, which I can easily handle. And despite the trend for smaller watches, the Offshore needs to be large as it was designed and supposed to be that way.

RJ's 2024 watch resolutions Lange 1

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Lastly, there’s another watch that I’ve been keeping an eye on for a long time (and wishing I had pulled the trigger on it earlier). It’s the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1. Ever since I got into watches in the 1990s, but also after several visits to the A. Lange & Söhne manufacture in Glashütte over the years, the Lange 1 has remained high on my list. Its design speaks to me, and not many watch brands get away with their 1990s designs in the 2020s. The level of craftsmanship visible in Lange’s movements is also impressive, especially the hand-engraved balance bridge. These calibers are a joy to observe through the sapphire case back, while the dial side is borderline boring but incredibly timeless. There’s little to criticize about A. Lange & Söhne watches, and I firmly believe that I will never get tired of it when owning one.

For such a purchase, I need to free up some funds and make some room in my collection. I am not sure if I am willing to do so, but the older I get, the more I realize that I can’t wear all of my watches all the time anyway.

Wrist time is crucial

Going forward, the most important thing to me is wearing my watches. The box filled with watches that never get any time on the wrist is significant, and I don’t want to feed that monster anymore. So when I purchase a watch in 2024, it shall receive proper wrist time, as my Breguet 7027 does. That, to me, is also the problem when looking at vintage watches. I have added quite a few over the years, but they only get limited time on the wrist. I’m not always comfortable wearing a vintage watch as I often need to be aware (or “unagi,” as Ross Geller would say) when wearing it daily. Not that I’m careless, but they’re usually more fragile than modern watches, and service or repair can be lengthy and expensive. I’ll try to stay clear of such watches in 2024, focusing on pieces that I will wear and enjoy thoroughly.

What do you think of my watch resolutions for 2024? Do you have any of your own? If you’d like to share them, feel free to do so in the comments section below.