Sunday Morning Showdown: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV Vs. Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for a cup of coffee and a new installment of our Sunday Morning Showdown series. We’ve selected two platinum dress watches introduced during Watches and Wonders 2025 for this week’s battle. Mike’s pick is the brilliant Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P. The widely praised return of the classic Calatrava was one of the show’s highlights. Jorg’s pick is the equally brilliant platinum version of the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV. While it might not have received as much praise as the Patek, many hardcore watch fans declared it another highlight of this year’s Watches and Wonders. Which of these watches will win today’s battle?
This year is proving to be great for dress watches. If you have read our Top 5 list of the best dress watches of the first half of the year, you will have seen that Watches and Wonders treated us to an abundance of show-stopping new ones. We picked two from that lineup that people were talking about. The first, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava 6196P, was one of the most talked-about watches at the show. It brings back the classic Calatrava look that left the brand’s catalog with the discontinuation of the 5196. Chopard’s Quattro Mark IV is yet another impressive L.U.C model, this time with an impressive caliber that gained a lot of praise, just like the Patek. Which of the two manual-winding dress watches will win? That’s up to you, Fratelli, as you get to vote for your favorite.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
Before we let Mike and Jorg go at it, let’s take a quick look back at last week’s showdown. In that battle, the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Lumière took the win with 60% of the votes, leaving the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph with 40%. It made the C60 Trident Lumière the titanium summer pick of last week’s match-up. In the comments, people came up with all kinds of alternatives, which sparked ideas for future duels, so thank you all for that. But now let’s pass it off to Jorg and Mike to make their respective cases.
Jorg: Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV
This week’s showdown is a tough one. Honestly, I like both Mike’s and my picks because there is no going wrong with either of these watches. The Patek Philippe 6196P is a glorious return of the classic Calatrava silhouette dating back to the early 1930s reference 96. But instead of simply reintroducing the classic in the way we would have expected, the Patek designers added some stylish contemporary details in the form of the anthracite-colored hands and markers on a salmon dial. It’s a smart move because these touches work very well, making the Calatrava 6196P one of our favorite dress watches of 2025 so far.
So, why is the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV the watch for me in this battle? A large part of that comes from my ever-growing love for the brand. Over the past few years, Chopard has repeatedly shown that it can surprise us with stunning releases. An example is the string of wonderful Alpine Eagle variants we have seen. As I explained in a recent article, that series has grown into one of the most relevant in the world of integrated-bracelet sports watches.
The brilliance of Chopard’s developments
Additionally, the brand’s L.U.C series has been wonderful to follow. Just last week, Chopard unveiled another brilliant model, the new L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition. It’s an absolute stunner, and it joins an already impressive lineup including highlights like the salmon-dial L.U.C 1860 in Lucent Steel, the L.U.C XPS Forest Green, and the L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 in rose gold. All these releases show consistent development and continual growth, making me a fan of the brand.
It makes defending the new L.U.C Quattro Mark IV in platinum an easy task. Not only is it a stunning watch with a wonderful caliber, but it also comes from a brand to which I feel a stronger connection than Patek. While I greatly enjoy the Calatrava 6196P, I simply do not click with Patek Philippe as a brand in the same way. Some of its recent releases have been awesome, such as the new 5370R Split-Seconds Chronograph. But we have also seen some less impressive watches from the Genevan brand. It’s been a story of hit-or-miss releases that lack the consistency I love about Chopard.
The Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV
Let’s focus on the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV. The watch features an elegantly sculpted 39mm platinum case with a 10.4mm thickness and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug. This makes the watch slightly bigger and a smidge thicker than Mike’s Calatava, but it also makes it more wearable for a big guy like me. On that topic, the so-called bassine-shaped case, characterized by a bezel wider than the case back, combined with the beautifully curved lugs, makes for a watch that wears like a charm. The mix of finishes also makes the elegant case stand out next to the simpler Calatrava case.
Chopard matched the case with a wonderfully detailed ice-blue dial. The base is brass with a nice, grainy texture. It features sharp, faceted hour markers placed on the inside of the minute track with concentric graining. Located at 6 o’clock is a recessed sub-dial that contains both the running seconds and a pointer date. The clever finishing separates the two functions and also adds more detail to the dial.
The center features concentric graining, while the outer ring with the date numerals features a nice brushed finish. Separating the two parts are elegant chamfers that match the case, hour markers, and beautiful beveled dauphine fusée hour and minute hands. All these elements create a watch that looks more detailed and refined than the Calatrava.
The impressive in-house caliber 98.09-L
The magic continues when you turn the watch over. The in-house manual-winding caliber 98.09-L is another win for the Chopard L.U.C Quattro Mark IV over the Patek Calatrava 6196P. The new movement is a direct evolution of the original Quattro movement and is impressive in both specs and finishing. The four-barrel architecture endows it with a laudable 216-hour (nine-day) power reserve. The two double-stacked barrels hold a total of 1.885 meters of mainspring, which is mindblowing if you think about it. What I love about the new Quattro Mark IV is that Chopard integrated the power reserve indicator on the back of the watch. It keeps the dial nicely balanced without forgoing the functionality of the complication.
The caliber comes with a COSC certification and the prestigious Geneva Seal, which is engraved on it. As you can see, it is also finished beautifully. The bridges feature rounded, polished bevels and finely grained surfaces. Additionally, we find a black-polished swan-neck regulator with beautifully beveled outlines. Due to its four-barrel construction, the caliber might be slightly less intricately finished than some of Chopard’s micro-rotor calibers, but it still is a joy to see. Finishing the look is a gray calfskin strap with quick-release tabs and a platinum buckle. The clever and easy-to-use quick-release mechanism proves that Chopard is constantly finding ways to improve its watches.
In a duel of platinum dress watches, the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is my king
Chopard’s approach has led to a beautifully designed and executed platinum dress watch that I adore. The refined looks, great proportions, and stunning caliber make the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV my winner in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown. But I’ll hand it over to Mike to explain why the Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P is the better choice in this battle of the distinguished gentlemen’s watches.
Mike: Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
It’s nice to climb back into the ring with my typical sparring partner for a battle of platinum dress watches. The L.U.C Quattro Mark IV is a great-looking watch, and I applaud the brand for taking on the likes of Patek Philippe and its legendary Calatrava. Seriously, Chopard is making some top-grade watches that deserve attention. Yet, just when I felt Patek was on the ropes after years of blingy, oversized releases, the company showed there’s still some of that cagey veteran chutzpah left. This year’s 6196P Calatrava is the first watch from the brand that I’ve admired in a long time.
Back to basics with some modern tweaks
The last time I saw a modern Calatrava on someone’s wrist was at a bar in London. The owner wasn’t small in stature, but the bright 6119R with a hobnail bezel looked like a glitzy dinner plate on his wrist. Of course, taste is personal, but for me, the Calatrava should be the definition of understated class. The 6119R, on the other hand, was shouty. Enter the new 6196P, and there’s finally a dignified choice for those who desire a hand-winding watch with classic looks and dimensions.
The 6196P competes well with the Quattro Mark IV, coming in with a 9.33mm profile and a 38mm diameter. That’s a 1mm decrease from the aforementioned 6119, and that’s a good thing. The case is paired with a fine-looking dark brown alligator strap and a simple platinum pin buckle.
A dial worthy of a Patek Philippe
Patek refers to the 6196P’s dial as rose-gilt opaline, but it definitely leans toward salmon. Controversially, Patek coated the traditional white gold applied indexes, diamond-drilled minute track, and hands with anthracite plating. Overall, it gives the watch a more contemporary feel. While I wasn’t accepting such a move, I think it works well with the dial color. Unfortunately, the logo still looks a tad large.
The 30-255 PS inside
Jorg is right: the Quattro has a ridiculous power reserve that puts it in another stratosphere. Nine days (216 hours) of usability versus 65 hours is a big difference, but does it truly matter? I don’t think so, and besides, I enjoy winding my watches. That goes double when the movement is the sweet 30-255 PS from Patek Philippe. While it may lack the outright beauty of a vintage Patek movement, such as the 27 SC with its beautiful bridges, the caliber is arguably prettier than the one in the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV.
Pricing and reputation
We find ourselves in a strange world when the Chopard retails for more than a Patek Philippe. Indeed, the L.U.C Quattro Mark IV has a retail price of €51,400, while the Calatrava 6196P costs €46,800. For potential buyers, the difference is likely insignificant. However, one has to ask, would most choose a Chopard over a Patek? I’m not so sure. That’s not a slight against Chopard, but Patek Philippe has such a magical reputation, including on the secondary market, that it’s a tough hurdle to overcome. The Calatrava’s styling resonates with me more than the L.U.C’s, but I can appreciate a vote in either direction. With that, it’s time to cast your vote for one of these high-priced heavy-metal beauties. As always, feel free to let us know why you voted the way you did.
