I’m not sure if the Aquaracer Professional 200 is the ultimate luxury tool watch for explorers (as TAG Heuer says it is), but six newly introduced models undoubtedly add to the luxury part of that premise. Until now, the Aquaracer Professional 200 was available in stainless steel only. That’s very suitable for a tool watch but not very luxurious. TAG Heuer now takes care of that by adding gold to the series.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 rose gold


TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

Let me start with the heavy hitters, a pair of solid 18K gold TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 watches powered by the new exclusive Calibre TH31-00. I’ll get back to how excellent these new watches and their beautiful dials are, but I first want to discuss the new movement inside these gold models.
Aquaracer Professional 200 rose gold side

New TAG Heuer Calibre TH31-00

The new TH31-00 movement was codeveloped by TAG Heuer and Manufacture AMT, Sellita’s customization department for high-end movements in La Chaux-de-Fonds. AMT produces and assembles this high-performance movement exclusively for TAG Heuer. Equipping the Aquaracer Professional 200 with time and date functions, the TH31-00 offers a number of benefits. It is very accurate and chronometer-certified, which demands an accuracy of +6/-4 seconds daily. It delivers an 80-hour power reserve, the longest ever to feature in a TAG Heuer Aquaracer with mechanical movement.

New movement

The beautifully finished 30-jewel movement has Côtes de Genève decoration on the bridges, and its rotor design shows the TAG Heuer shield. TAG Heuer applies a five-year warranty to any watch that it powers. Calibre TH31-00 is the latest in a series of movements developed under TAG Heuer’s Movements Director, Carole Forestier. It joins TAG Heuer’s Calibre TH30-00, which was introduced last year in the Aquaracer Professional 1000 Superdiver.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200

Two models in 18K gold

During Watches and Wonders 2023, TAG Heuer is introducing the first Aquaracer Professional 200 models in solid 18K gold. This is a pair of 40mm watches, one of which will have a case and bezel in 18K 5N rose gold and the other in 18K 3N yellow gold. Both gold TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 models have beautiful gradient dials in line with their luxury profile. The rose gold model has a black dial that fades nicely into a bronze-tinted gray center, while the variant in yellow gold has a shimmering blue dial.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Yellow gold

Don’t let the gold fool you; these new luxury Aquaracers don’t deny their origin and remain modern sports watches designed to serve an adventurous life. Both gold models sport a black DLC-coated steel crown and titanium case back to emphasize their sportiness. They also feature the familiar 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel and crown guards. The technical specifications have not been compromised either. Like their steel family members, the solid gold and steel-and-gold models promise water resistance to 200 meters.
Rubber strap

Rubber straps

Adding to the sportiness of these gold models are the rubber straps that they come with. The rose gold version with a black dial has a matching black strap, while the yellow gold version with a blue dial sports a blue strap. Both use lightweight DLC-coated Grade 2 titanium clasps with comfort extension links.

Steel and Gold

The 40mm and 30mm steel-and-gold models

Besides the two solid gold models, TAG Heuer adds four steel-and-gold models to the Aquaracer Professional 200 lineup. Here there’s not just a choice between yellow and rose gold, but both material variations are available in two sizes as well. Like the stainless steel models, we see 40mm for gents and 30mm for women — according to TAG Heuer — with these bicolor models.

40 mm

Again, the rose gold models sport black-to-gray dials, while the yellow gold versions sport radiant blue dials. The two 40mm versions have the same dials as their solid gold brothers. The 30mm models, however, will get extra-luxurious black or blue fumé mother-of-pearl dials. The steel-and-gold models also come on rubber straps, in this case with a stainless steel clasp, double safety push-buttons, and a comfort extension link.
30 mm steel and yellow gold
Both the 40mm and 30mm steel-and-gold models are powered by Swiss-made automatic mechanical movements. The 40mm model features the Sellita SW200-based TAG Heuer Calibre 5, while the 30mm sports the Sellita SW1000-based TAG Heuer Calibre 9. Both case sizes promise water resistance to 200 meters. Referring to the robust nature of the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 series, the case backs of the new steel-and-gold models are cast in steel and decorated with a compass-rose motif.

Steel and gold crown

Conclusion and prices

With the introduction of six precious-metal models, TAG Heuer lifted its Aquaracer Professional 200 series to a more luxurious level. And this is without compromising its sporty and adventurous character. The full-gold models are even equipped with an entirely new and enhanced caliber. We hope this also finds its way into the other Aquaracer Professional 200 models.

Of course, precious metals will influence the prices. For example, while the 40mm stainless steel automatic Aquaracer Professional 200 currently starts at €2,750, the 40mm steel-and-gold versions will have a price of €5,100. The 30mm steel-and-gold models will cost €4,750. Topping the price list, of course, are full-gold Aquaracer Professional 200 models, which will require €18,600 to change hands. The steel-and-gold versions will be available in April, and the full-gold models will follow in September 2023.

For more information, please visit the TAG Heuer website.