Watches are labeled “cult” when they have a certain history or status amongst collectors. Last week, MotoringExposure covered the Omega Speedmaster a.k.a Moonwatch as being a cult watch. This week, we decided to grab another cult watch and this is perhaps the most recognized cult watch of all: The Rolex Submariner.

Photo courtesy of SubGMT.com

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In April 2009, just after I returned from BaselWorld 2009, I temporarily switched my Rolex Yacht-Master 16622 with a friend’s Submariner 16613.

Although I really had to get used to all that gold on this Submariner, the watch was definitely an eye-catcher and felt right in terms of weight, size and looks. The blue dial was amazing, espcially during daylight.

Since BaselWorld 2009, Rolex introduced the new stainless steel/gold Submariner 116613. Using their new style case, like the GMT-Master IIc 116710LN and the earlier introduced white gold Submariner 116619, it is evident that this is Rolex’s way forward. It seems that Rolex listened to a lot of customers, and is firing their innovations to us in up-tempo. Rolex brings us new and improved movements (parachrom, YMII movement), a new type of bracelet with solid gold center links and a new folding clasp and ofcourse the new case design.

John Holbrook of The Rolex Reference Page and Watch Talk Forums Inc wrote an excellent comparative review on the new Two Tone Submariner 116613 and the former 16613 model. He had the opportunity to review the new Two Tone Submariner and compare it to his own Z-series model Submariner 16613.

Below you see the pictures that he took of both models:

Although the differences appear to be quite obvious, I suggest you read John’s article to learn more about the changes that Rolex made to its most iconic model of the last few decades.

Click here to read “COMPARATIVE REVIEW: The Rolex Submariner 16613 vs. the Rolex Submariner 116613″

As I planned to attend BaselWorld 2010, I assume that one of the models that Rolex will be introducing will be the new Submariner in stainless steel, probably with the same case design and bracelet as the full gold and gold/steel models. I would consider this a good successor to the 16600 Sea-Dweller and 16610 Submariner, as the new Deep-Sea Sea-Dweller is a totally different design from its predecessor. However you never know if Rolex is actually going to introduce the Rolex Submariner 116610 this year, that they will come with something completely different or that they will skip a year with their innovations.

Both photos are used with permission from WATCH TALK FORUMS INC

On the 11th of June, Antiquorum is auctioning Timepieces from Twentieth Century Icons. This auction includes some stuff that belonged to Steve McQueen. Besides the actual watch that Steve McQueen wore in the Le Mans movie, the Heuer Monaco (ref.1133), Antiquorum is also auctioning his Von Dutch motorcycle (what has this to do with timepieces you may ask? I don’t know. It has to do with money probably.) and a Rolex Submariner 5512 that was given to Jimmy Brucker, early 1980. I don’t know if it is the actual watch that has been spotted on the wrist of Steve McQueen several times, or that it is just a similar model. Chad McQueen, Steve’s son, has been spotted wearing a similar Submariner as well. Who knows.

Antiquorum estimates that the Heuer Monaco between 10.000 USD and 20.000 USD. Same goes for the Rolex Submariner 5512. I think both estimates are a bit low to be honest, especially when it is proven that Steve McQueen actually wore this Submariner in his private life as well. The Heuer Monaco was given away after the movie, as soon as he hit the way back home. So far for Steve’s loyalty to the Heuer Monaco. Who’s to blame? Certainly not Steve McQueen, but this is once again showing the sad marketing by TAG Heuer of milking out the use of their watch in a movie. And let’s be honest now, this movie isn’t that great either, except for the nice scenery.

Anyway, well informed sources over at ‘Das Rolex Forum‘ said that the dial has been replaced at some point during the watch’s lifetime. The watch is obviously polished a few times as well. However, that doesn’t count, when someone (which I think should be Antiquorum’s role) can prove that Steve McQueen actually did wear this particular watch.

Other timepieces in this auction are a gold Cartier Pasha with quartz movement, given to Sammy Davis Jr. by his friend Frank Sinatra, also in 1980.  Estimated price is between 10.000 USD and 20.000 USD. It seems to me that the ‘experts’ over at Antiquorum have an easy job, or are just lazy. Then there are these Gruen and Movado watches. The Gruen was a gift from Frank Sinatra to a friend of his, Al Silvani. Frank seemed to enjoy giving away timepieces. The Movado was a gift to President Roosevelt, by his son-in-law, for his 63rd birthday in 1945. This watch is estimated at 50.000 USD to 60.000 USD.

Want to see the other object for sale? Have a go at http://www.antiquorum.com/eng/press/2009/209106/juneny09auction.html.

Project X Designs, famous for their customized Rolexes, is proud to present their PXD SS1 Limited edition Rolex Submariner. This watch, based on the current Submariner ref.16610LV, is a hommage to the James Bond Submariners of the 1950s & Military Submariners of the 1970s. Although Bond’s Submariner was less high-tech (in real life that is), Project X Designs tried to bring the ‘look & feel’ of that very watch by removing the crown protectors and putting the watch on a NATO strap. Most information available about the watches that James Bond actually DID wear, can be found on Dell Deaton’s excellent website http://www.jamesbondwatches.com/.

By using the LV (Lunette Vert) model of the Rolex Submariner 16610, the watch instantly has the great maxi dial. A maxi dials means that the hour markers are bigger than the regular dots on a Rolex’s dial. Project X Designs will be only producing 24 of these stainless steel Submariners, featuring a black bezel insert (instead of the green one), enamelled caseback engravings, grey G10 NATO strap.

The original stainless steel bracelet, as well as the original box and papers are included. As you can see, the crown guards and the cyclops have been removed by Project X Designs, to create that vintage look.

Since nobody knows when the production of the original 16610LV will end (it is a time limited model, started to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner), it is a great opportunity to get the best from both worlds. A time limited Rolex as well as a limited edition customized PXD watch.

I think it is fair to say that this is not a re-edition or that Project X Designs is trying to ‘copy’ one of the original Submariners from the era mentioned before. It is a hommage to one of the biggest watch icons there is, the Rolex Submariner.

If you want to make this watch a bit more ‘Bond’ than Military, try to add the NATO G10 style strap from Corvus Watch. It is an exact replica of the NATO strap used by James Bond in Goldfinger and Thunderball. After doing research using HD TV and Blue Ray techniques, they finally know about the exact pattern of the NATO strap used in these Bond movies. Corvus Watch Company sells them for 39,95 USD. They come in three sizes, and you have to use the 18mm version if you want to be exactly like Bond, James Bond! Click here for the Corvus NATO Strap.

In my humble opinion, I think Project X Designs and Corvus should do some business together so the buyer of the PXD SS1 also gets the Bond NATO.

Besides the above Submariner PXD SS1 watch, Project X Designs also introduces the PXD DS1, based on the famous Rolex Daytona 116520. Rolex’s one and only chronograph, in their current collection that is. Click here for more information on the PXD DS1.

Although James Bond is probably perceived as one of the most stylish men around, he certainly messed up his watch in Goldfinger. In Goldfinger, he was wearing a Rolex Submariner (ref.6538 probably) on a NATO strap. On several Rolex Forums, the close-up below shows the watch with as much detail as possible:

I don’t like NATO straps at all, and find them far from stylish, but I guess that there are a lot of Rolex (and Bond) fans that do. But look at the width of the strap, it is way too small, approximately 18mm (if not any smaller). This looks plain ugly, and I can’t imagine they couldn’t find a right NATO strap for this watch in 1964.

Anyway, some of the Rolex / Bond fans are delighted by finally having such a nice close-up, so they can get a NATO strap with similar pattern. Visitor Dieter of the R-L-X forum, found one that comes close AND fits properly. I really wonder if the real fan will go for a 18mm version of this strap to attach between the 20mm lugs.

In this case, I think that Dieter is more stylish than James Bond. His vintage Rolex Submariner with the patina dial looks superb! As far as I can judge it, the original bezel is still there and looks niceley aged. However, I cannot getting used to these NATO straps.

A sporty Rolex should be on a stainless steel bracelet, any time. Also for Mr. Bond.

Related links:

http://www.jamesbondwatches.com/empire-2008-10.htm
http://www.fratellowatches.com/archives/2009/02/18/james-bond-vs-daniel-craig/
http://members.optusnet.com.au/heliosz/jamesbond.html