Delightfully Faithful — Hands-On With The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof
Alpina dropped two unassuming and atypically subtle watches during this year’s Watches and Wonders. So unassuming, in fact, that they got drowned out by all of the noise made by other manufacturers. Luckily, we had Fratello’s Mike with a keen eye for vintage spotting the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof. The two watches impressed him, so I took the opportunity to go hands-on now that the dust has settled, to see whether these are indeed winners.
The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof comes with either a black or white dial. Each version costs €1,795. Let’s have a closer look!
The roots of the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof
As you can see from both the pictures and the name of the watch, these pay homage to Alpina’s past. To find the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof’s heritage, we have to travel back to the 1960s.
Alpina teamed up with case maker François Borgel to create a new water-resistant wristwatch. Borgel was making waves with well-made and well-finished cases, easily recognizable by their decagonal case backs. You will find these cases used for Movado, Mido, Doxa, and even Patek Philippe watches from the era. Boninchi provided a neatly matching crown. Post-war globalization and a growing obsession among Europeans with exotic destinations led to the name “Tropic-Proof” to describe the more water-resistant models.
The precise timeline is vague. Luckily, Alpina is completely transparent about this. The brand’s archives date the model to 1968, but the Tropic-Proof label can be traced back to the early ’60s. Analysis of serial numbers shows that production started as early as 1965. Whatever the precise year, the original Tropic-Proof watches represent mid-’60s watchmaking for sure.
The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof’s specs
The original hand-wound, time-only model had a 34mm diameter, so we were fully expecting a 40mm reissue with an automatic movement and a date. After all, isn’t that how most big brands do reissues nowadays? I am delighted to report that Alpina did not follow that template. Instead, the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof is still a 34mm watch housing a hand-wound, time-only movement. Kudos, Alpina!
The case has a 9.25mm profile, including the box-type sapphire crystal. That’s right; although the watch looks like the original, it does feature modern updates, with sapphire being one of them. Alpina rates the water resistance at 30 meters, which could have done with an update/upgrade. In keeping with the original, the case back is still all steel in the characteristic decagonal shape.
Inside now ticks caliber Alpina AL-480, which is a Sellita SW215. That means you get manual winding, a 4Hz beat rate, and a 42-hour autonomy. Alpina does not provide information on accuracy, so don’t expect chronometer standards here.
New dials
The greatest aesthetic difference between the originals and the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof is in the dials. While the originals featured sunburst dials, the reissues come with glossy ones. That’s another atypical move as most manufacturers go for ever more intricate dials rather than simplifying like this.
This is a mixed bag, however. I really like the black and white gloss dials. They look fresh and appealing, vintage and modern at the same time. The one big miss for me, though, is the printing. The Alpina logo and “Tropic-Proof” script are simply too large. Especially in this Arial-like font, the text looks unrefined and plump. We’re lucky to see more and more manufacturers paying closer attention to typography these days. Especially in a faithful reissue like this, it just has to be done right. Unfortunately, Alpina decided to deviate from the elegance of the originals in this sense.
You also get a tiny bit of faux-patina lume. While I am usually fiercely opposed to this, I think it works here. The beige tint adds a bit of character and warmth, confirming that these are indeed vintage reissues. I can throw up arguments about authenticity, but the simple truth is that I think it looks good here.
Wearing the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof
Let me keep it simple: both Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof variants are an absolute joy to wear. They fit just like a true vintage watch, falling well within the confines of my 18cm wrist. They do not, however, appear dainty in the slightest. Of course, these are small watches, but they have that lovely mid-century vibe about them. I can see Don Draper rocking one of these, and frankly, I felt suave like that while wearing them.
I have a soft spot for mid-century sports watches in the dress-watch form factor. The Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof reminds me of my 1950s Seamasters in that way. The combination of formal elegance and a hint of toughness is very appealing. It makes for highly versatile watches suitable for carefree daily wearing. The sand-colored Alcantara strap perfectly complements this vibe. It underlines the more casual side of the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof. I reckon you can have some fun with your watch straps, though, as these are, once again, incredibly versatile timepieces.
I found myself leaning toward the white-dial version while switching between the two. In my eyes, it has a more distinct look. Still, I would happily rock the black version as well. All in all, Alpina delivers two very attractive vintage reissues in the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof. I would highly recommend them if you like the style. I would love to see a second version with improved water resistance and smaller dial printing.
What do you think of the Alpina Heritage Tropic-Proof? Let us know in the comments section below.
