Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of The First Half Of 2025 — Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, And More
Another Friday, another list. This week, we continue our series of lists highlighting the best releases of the first half of the year. In this specific article, we’re focusing on our top five complicated watches. They all stand out because of their technical brilliance. But that brilliance would be for nothing if the watches didn’t also look good and wear comfortably, so it’s about more than just creating a technical masterpiece. Let’s find out what our five picks are.
Before we do that, though, as always, I should point out that this is merely a selection of five watches that impressed us. We have been bombarded with impressive releases in the first half of the year, which made it hard to choose. What also makes it hard is that watches of this level are not attainable for most of us. Consequently, the personal bonds will be somewhat different compared to, let’s say, a chronograph or a GMT. Nevertheless, we have found five great complicated watches for this list, so let’s discover what they are.
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication
Vacheron Constantin celebrates its 270th anniversary this year, and it does so in style. Early in 2025, we were treated to the wonderful stainless steel version of the 222, one of my favorites of this year. But the celebrations truly kicked into gear during Watches and Wonders. The absolute highlight was the stunning Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. This wonderful timepiece became the world’s most complicated watch, with a total of 41 complications displayed on two dials. If that is not impressive enough, the watchmakers at Vacheron Constantin managed to squeeze them into an 18K white gold case with a 45mm diameter and a 14.99mm profile.
Just summing up all 41 complications and explaining them is worth an article alone. That’s why I suggest that you read Henry’s intro article, which does a great job of summarizing the different complications. Responsible for this horological wizardry is the Vacheron Constantin manufacture caliber 3655, a 1,521-component movement with 13 patent applications pending. This caliber operates at 21,600vph, contains 204 jewels, and offers a healthy 72-hour power reserve.
It’s not just a super-complicated watch…
While the biggest challenge was undoubtedly technical, making a complicated watch like this look attractive and fairly easy to navigate was another monumental task. Nevertheless, Vacheron’s designers succeeded in devising a layout and execution that is nothing short of impressive.
Of course, they integrated multiple functions into the four displays on the front dial. Additionally, the back dial displays a sky map and chronograph functions. To keep that info readable, the brand used a beautiful combination of font types, colors, and no fewer than nine types of finishing. These finishes create extra contrast, helping the user to navigate the abundance of information.
But the complications are not just visual. The team at Vacheron also had to integrate a chiming mechanism. The biggest challenge in that regard was maintaining a sub-15mm case profile. The designers were adamant about this, and they succeeded gloriously.
I could go on for much longer about this watch, but that would lead to an extensive article. In summary, I think it is safe to say that Vacheron Constantin perfectly displayed why it is part of the Holy Trinity of watchmaking with the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication. The 270th anniversary is only halfway through, but topping this in the second half of the year is not likely to happen. I would even state that we won’t see a watch as technically impressive as this stunning Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication for at least five years.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Whereas the Vacheron was a completely new watch with a staggering display of technical mastery, there are also existing models that received impressive updates. A good example is the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar. It displays the brand’s ability — in particular, that of technical director Giulio Papi — to optimize complications with out-of-the-box thinking.
The brand’s Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has long been a favorite among Royal Oak fans, so when Papi started developing an updated Perpetual Calendar movement, he set the bar high. However, because he was also the mastermind behind 2023’s impressive Code 11.59 By Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4, he was exactly the right man to perfect the brand’s perpetual calendar movement.
As Lex explained in his in-depth article about the new caliber 7138, the world of Haute Horlogerie is often one of marginal gains. Still, reading about the 423-part “QP” movement, which holds five patents, quickly reveals that this new caliber is not about marginal gains but, instead, giant leaps. The biggest change is that all functions are adjustable via the crown, eschewing the seemingly ever-present correctors on the side of the case. As Lex also explained, Audemars Piguet is not the first brand to do this, but by making the traditional perpetual calendar movement adjustable both forward and backward, AP ended up with a revolutionary caliber indeed.
Multiple articles on the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
For both the ultra-complicated Code 11.59 and the new perpetual calendar models, Papi focused heavily on ergonomics. It’s all about the quest to find answers to make a watch easy to read and operate. I suggest that you read Lex’s article for a full rundown of the magic of the new caliber 7138. Additionally, he wrote a follow-up article about the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars after having the chance to do a hands-on review. The two new Royal Oaks were accompanied by a Code 11.59 model, completing a trio of new perpetual calendars.
The first of the two Royal Oak models is in stainless steel with a blue dial (ref. 26674ST.OO.1320ST.01). This classic combo of materials and colors gives the watch a familiar look, but look again, and you will see the visual differences with the previous version. The second model (ref. 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01) comes in sand gold with a gold dial. I like AP’s sand gold because it looks somewhat understated. Add a gold dial, though, and this version stands out. But what makes both models truly important is the new caliber 7136, of course, and that’s why they are the second pick on our list of the top five complicated watches of this year so far.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179
For Jaeger-LeCoultre, Watches and Wonders 2025 was all about the Reverso, and we had several options to choose from for this list. But there was only one that was mind-blowingly cool. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is one of those watches you won’t forget once you see it. As Thomas explained in his article, once the word “Hybris” pops up, you know you are in for an impressive ride.
The Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is a 10-piece limited edition priced at US$565,000. Thomas explained that its principle is still based on a Reverso Duoface, meaning you get a time zone on each dial and a 24-hour indicator on the rear. That tells just a minuscule fraction of the story, though. While a tourbillon is not a “complication” in the sense that it doesn’t offer any additional functions, that doesn’t mean it’s not a complicated mechanism. And indeed, a fast-paced gyro tourbillon at 6 o’clock is the main attraction of this marvelous watch.
The magic of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Metiers Rares
The tourbillon makes a full rotation every 16 seconds, while its cage completes a lap in a full minute. Combined with the semi-spherical balance spring, it makes for a brilliant visual spectacle. But this technical brilliance shines even more thanks to the magical execution of the brand’s Metiers Rares craftspeople. As you can see, the extensive skeletonization offers the chance to see the inner workings of the hand-wound caliber 179. The hand-finished bevels show the incredible eye for detail that went into creating the watch.
But let’s not forget the wonderful three-dimensional dial, which features small basins filled with blue lacquer. The abundance of this and the stunning finishing of the different elements make this dial instantly catch the eye. The reverse dial is far more skeletonized but features blue-lacquered bridges to connect the front and back sides of the watch. This creative mastery is housed in a white gold case with a 31mm diameter, 51.1mm length, and 13.63mm thickness. While that makes it a chunky Reverso, the Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is also hard to forget!
A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus in Honeygold
Okay, this is a cheeky curveball. I admit that. This is not the most technically impressive release that A. Lange & Söhne unveiled this year. You might have expected the Minute Repeater Perpetual instead. But despite being a technically stunning watch, it didn’t blow us away like the Odysseus in Honeygold did. Should we have picked a different watch, then? Well, technically, the Odysseus is a complicated watch with its day and date functions. On top of that, this Honeygold model is a wonderful version of the brand’s sports watch. Remember when I said in the beginning that technical wizardry is not the only thing that matters? Well, here you have a complicated watch that looks stunning and, therefore, deserves its spot on this list.
On top of that, there is plenty of technical brilliance and watchmaking wizardry within this Odysseus. But it all starts with the stunning 40.5 × 11.1mm Honeygold case. It is matched with a beautifully finished five-row bracelet. The contrast between the polished bevels and the brushed upper surfaces of the links is one of those details that immediately pops. Within the case lies a beautiful chocolate-brown dial full of intricate details that show the meticulous eye of the watchmakers at A. Lange & Söhne.
The beautiful Datomatic caliber L155.1
Inside the case, you will find the Datomatic caliber L155.1. It consists of 312 components, operates at 28,800vph, and offers a 50-hour power reserve. The beautiful 31-jewel caliber also features a skeletonized and partially black-rhodium-plated central rotor with a centrifugal mass in 950 platinum. It is a wonderful powertrain that gives you plenty to admire when the watch is not on your wrist.
As I explained in my introduction article, the titanium version of the Odysseus was always my favorite of the series. But this stunning Honeygold version might be my new pick. On this list, it might seem like a fairly simple watch. Don’t let that fool you, though, because it is far from it, and it deserves a spot on this list. It was also one of our collective highlights of this year’s Watches and Wonders.
Chopard L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual
For our last pick, we have to go back to the beginning of the year. That’s when Chopard unveiled the stunning L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual. The piece is the next step for Chopard in the development of complicated watches. As you might know, we are fans of Chopard here at Fratello. The brand is doing great things across the board, whether it be with the Alpine Eagle line or the L.U.C collection to which this new Flying T Twin Perpetual belongs. Chopard treated us to a series of great releases in both collections during Watches and Wonders, and the platinum Alpine Eagle and the L.U.C. Quattro were some of my favorites.
This L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual debuted in January, though, and it feels like it flew under the radar a bit. Lex covered it in April along with the platinum Alpine Eagle because that was when all the new releases became available, including those that had been released in the prior months. So let’s zoom in on the L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual. The watch has an elegant 40.5 × 11.6mm ethical 18K yellow gold case. Chopard paired it with a beautiful green PVD-treated dial with a hand-applied guilloché pattern that originates from the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
The L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual has appealing classic vibes
Two extra sub-dials at 3 and 9 o’clock display the different functions of the perpetual calendar, except for the big date just underneath the logo at 12. I love how easy it is to navigate this dial. The various elements also have plenty of breathing room, with each claiming a solid spot. Making this magic possible is the L.U.C 96.36-L movement. This 319-part caliber is a certified chronometer displaying wonderful finishing and bearing the Poinçon de Genève. Thanks to the micro-rotor and Chopard’s Twin Technology with two stacked barrels, the 6mm-thick movement provides 65 hours of power reserve.
It’s a wonderful movement to admire through the case back’s sapphire display. Chopard also provides two straps to finish the look. The first is green alligator leather with matching stitching, and the second is beige grained calfskin with tone-on-tone stitching that completely transforms the look. Regardless of which strap you prefer, this L.U.C Flying T Twin Perpetual is a wonderful display of craftsmanship and a next step for Chopard that deserves the final spot on this list.
Final thoughts on the best complicated watches of the first half of 2025
There you have it — our five picks for our favorite complicated watches. As always, though, there could have been plenty more watches on this list. Let us know in the comments section which releases you think we missed. Are we delirious for not featuring something from Patek Philippe? Did we miss a small brand that blew you away? Feel free to add your picks in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another list.
