Fratello’s Top 5 Tudor Submariner References Ever Produced
Another Friday, another Top 5! In this series, we take one classic watch and choose our five favorite references ever produced. Four of these references will be based on the historical importance of the specific watch in the grand scheme of things. Though there may be some overlap, it’s not a question of which references are the most collectible or of the highest value on the market. The fifth pick is our Fratello favorite that takes the current market price and collectability into account, potentially making it a sleeper reference. As such, the last pick could be described as our wild card. In this new installment of the series, we will look at the Tudor Submariner. What are the top five references for the brand’s famous vintage dive watch?
Writing about the Tudor Submariner is a funny one. Ever since Tudor gained massive popularity, the appreciation for the brand’s Submariners has also increased rapidly. The funny aspect is that the prices for many of the classic Tudor Submariner models have not come down over the last six to eight months as Rolex Submariner prices have. As a result, prices for many of the Tudor diver models are more expensive than some of their Rolex counterparts! This world we live in is so weird sometimes. But having said that, the world of the Tudor Submariner is an interesting one. This is why we decided to select our best five Tudor Submariner references ever produced.
Image: Corrado Mattarelli
1. Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7924 “Big Crown”
It’s no surprise that the history of the Tudor Submariner starts around the same time as the Rolex Submariner. The Tudor Submariner’s history starts in 1954 with the introduction of the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922. Modeled after its Rolex counterpart, it was Tudor’s debut in the world of dive watches. However, we decided not to go for the first Tudor Submariner reference but the later Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7924, also known as the “Big Crown.” This watch came out in 1958 and introduced the 8mm Rolex crown marked “BREVET” to the Tudor Submariner. Inside the case, Tudor used its caliber 390, which was based on an FEF (Fabrique d’Ébauches de Fleurier) movement.
Image: Corrado Mattarelli
So why pick this ref. 7924? While the first Submariner ref. 7922 was supplied to the French Marine Nationale, the “Big Crown” was the first watch made specifically to fit the needs of the French Navy. After the divers tested the ref. 7922 and submitted their feedback, Tudor came up with the ref. 7924, which was sturdier and had an increased water resistance to 200 meters in comparison to the 100 meters of its predecessor. The watches were also issued to the United States Navy and the Argentinian Navy. These Submariners were in demand because of their robust build quality and affordable prices, thanks to their third-party movements. Looking at the style of the Submariner ref. 7924, you will recognize elements of it in the current Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Finding an original ref. 7924 is tough and will easily set you back €50K or more, depending on the condition.
Image: Bulang & Sons
2. Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928
The second reference is the brilliant Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7928. It was the first Tudor Sub with crown guards. The Marine Nationale’s divers had complained over time that the oversized crown of the “Big Crown” would break off, and therefore, the watches flooded. The answer was the introduction of the famous crown guards. On top of that, we saw the introduction of the same Submariner style that we still associate with the modern Sub. The ref. 7928 was introduced in 1959 and stayed in production until 1968. This made the 7928 the longest-running Tudor Submariner reference of all.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Tudor used a variety of cases with different crown guards, just like the first Rolex Submariner case with crown guards. Tudor collectors define the Mk1 case as the one with “Square” crown guards, whereas the Mk2 case has “Eagle Beak” pointed crown guards. Then there is the Mk3 case with pointed crown guards and, finally, the Mk4 case with round crown guards. Additionally, Tudor also equipped the ref. 7928 with several different dials, from the classic gilt dials with closed minute tracks to matte black dials with white markers and lettering.
Image: Bulang & Sons
And there are also the so-called “Exclamation Dot” dials. They indicate a much less radioactive mix of luminous material than the classic radium dials of the past. As you can tell, there are a lot of details that you could and should get into when it comes to the classic ref. 7928. It is one of my favorite Tudor watches ever produced. Prices start at roughly €10K and go up to €25K–30K easily, making them expensive but highly sought-after Subs.
Image: Bulang & Sons
3. Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7016
The next reference is the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7016, which debuted in 1969. This is the first reference that introduced the iconic Tudor-style dial with its square and rectangular markers in combination with the famous snowflake hands. It’s what many now call the “true Tudor style.” The Marine Nationale divers wanted Tudor to make further optimizations based on the ref. 7928. They requested watches with bigger luminescent hands and hour markers for increased readability. Tudor used the new dial designs for the first-generation Submariner ref. 7928 that the divers used on the job. The brand finally introduced it to the public with the ref. 7016 and the ref. 7021 that featured a date window. Both models stayed in production until 1975.
Image: Bulang & Sons
As I explained in my article about the Submariner ref. 7016, the earliest (Mk1) versions did not come with the characteristic dial and snowflake hands. Additionally, Tudor used a case with pointed crown guards for the Mk1. But it’s the Mk2 versions that introduced the famous snowflake hands and dial design with an updated case featuring rounded crown guards. The ref. 7016 also marked the beginning of the Subs with ETA movements. Tudor used the caliber 2483. The 25-jewel automatic movement operated at 18,000vph and provided a 42-hour power reserve. Finding a Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7016 is not hard, but they do go for serious money. Prices range from €8K to roughly €15K for one, but this is a great and historic Tudor Submariner reference.
Image: Bulang & Sons
4. Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 9401
The Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 9401 was introduced in 1975, and it’s the one Submariner that most people will associate with the Marine Nationale. Tudor produced the watch with the iconic snowflake hands and dial design featuring squares and rectangles as well as with the more traditional layout with round markers and Mercedes hands. The holy grail for many Tudor collectors is the French Navy-issued MN pieces that pop up and fetch top dollar. The ref. 9401 featured the trusted 40mm stainless steel case and came with either a blue dial and blue bezel insert or a black dial and black bezel insert. Obviously, the blue version with the snowflake hands and the dial with rectangular and square markers is considered the epitome of Tudor Submariners, along with the ‘Big Crowns.”
Image: Bulang & Sons
Compared to the Submariner ref. 7016 that came before, the biggest update was the ETA caliber 2776. It saw the operating frequency increase to 21,600vph and featured hacking seconds for a more accurate time setting. This was an important feature for military personnel. Around 1980, Tudor updated its reference system and started using five-digit reference numbers. That’s why you will see the updated ref. 94010 for the no-date Submariners that came out in the early 1980s. In 1983, Tudor decided to bid farewell to the design with the snowflake hands and dial with square markers. From then on, the brand only produced the ref. 94010 with Mercedes hands and triangular markers at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. Finding a ref. 9401 or ref. 94010 is definitely possible, but expect to see prices starting at roughly €10K and moving up to €30–40K for a Marine Nationale version.
Image: Bulang & Sons
5. Tudor Prince Date Submariner ref. 79190
Our final pick is the last Tudor Submariner reference that was ever produced. It came out in 1995 and was, basically, a modern Submariner that was similar to what Rolex produced at that time. Before the ref. 79190 debuted, Tudor had already discontinued no-date Submariners in 1989. Instead, the Tudor Prince Oysterdate Submariner ref. 79090 was the only Submariner in the Tudor catalog from 1989 on. It was powered by the famous ETA caliber 2824-2 and continued using the Rolex Submariner-style dial. Six years later, Tudor brought out the ref. 79190 as a final update to its Submariner. The brand kept the same 39mm stainless steel case but, from that moment on, equipped it with a sapphire crystal.
Image courtesy of Bulang & Sons
The blue and black unidirectional bezels were also updated, so overall, the ref. 79190 is a great modern classic. But we want to focus specifically on the version with the polished stainless steel bezel that came out in 1997. It features an engraved diving scale that is filled with black paint. Additionally, the blue and black dials were updated and received white gold applied hour markers filled with luminous material. This specific version was produced for one year only until Tudor stopped production of its Submariner models altogether. Finding one can be tough, and prices are steep. A regular blue or black model can be yours for roughly €7K–10K. However, the version with the polished bezel is harder to find and spans a greater price range, depending on the condition. Whichever way you go, though, ref. 79190 was a great final Tudor Submariner!
Image: Bulang & Sons
Final thoughts
There you have it — the best Tudor Submariner references ever produced, according to us! We realize that you might not agree with all the picks for this list. That’s why we would love this to be the start of a bigger discussion. Let us know your picks for the most relevant references in the development of the Tudor Submariner. Also, tell us if you would ever pay the high price that it takes to get one in the comments. We will see you next week for another Top 5 list of references for a different classic watch.
