Introducing: The Refreshingly Simple Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385
After a sea of complex and intricate releases from Panerai this year, the brand’s latest unveiling is a refreshing nod to its heritage. The new Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 in stainless steel harks back to Panerai’s 1935 prototype with vintage touches, a sparse layout, and oversized Arabic numerals. While it’s not a 1:1 remake of the prototype, it takes heavy inspiration from the influential watches commissioned by the Regia Marina (or Royal Italian Navy) in the first half of the last century. This new model also reflects Panerai’s more recent past and timepieces from the late ’90s and early ’00s that are now considered neo-vintage classics. So, does the Radiomir Officine live up to Panerai’s legacy? Read on to find out.
There has been quite a flurry of interest around Panerai at Fratello HQ this year. Both Nacho and Thomas purchased their first-ever Panerai watch in 2023 within just a month and a half of each other. You can read about the personal reasons why Nacho bought his titanium Luminor PAM00055 and Thomas bought his Radiomir PAM00210. But the curious connection between the two watches is that they hail from the early 2000s. While Nacho and Thomas delve deep into their specific preferences, it’s no coincidence that they both went for 20-year-old models. That era was, quite possibly, when interest in Panerai peaked, at least in the enthusiast community. Since then, well, things got complicated.
Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 — Beauty in simplicity
In the years following Panerai’s “hot minute,” the Richemont Group guided the brand to luxury status. No doubt, aside from hiccups like the controversial PAM318, the quality of Panerai watches improved over the last two decades. But there was a longing sense that the rudimentary underdog from Firenze, Italy, had gone too high-end too quickly. This year alone, we have covered the £43,900 Brabus Submersible S and £53,200 Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs from Panerai. The pricing is distinct enough from the original references, but the fussy dials and complex calibers seem a far cry from Panerai’s heyday. That’s precisely why the latest launch from Panerai feels like a timely, nostalgic throwback.
The Radiomir Officine PAM01385 is a 300-piece limited-edition sports watch with a 45mm polished stainless steel case. While this is a contemporary watch, the coffee-brown dial with a matte texture and beige Super-LumiNova markers is an homage to the 1935 vintage prototype. One missing detail for a modern Panerai watch is the “OP” (Officine Panerai) logo on the dial. Instead of creating a void, the logo’s noticeable omission allows the non-reflective texture room to breathe. The overall aesthetic is clean and minimalist, with only the model, brand name, and “L Swiss Made L” comprising the dial text. Thanks to the large, recessed Arabic numerals, elongated batons, and subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock, there is plenty to appreciate. And even with the rich brown/beige tones, the indications are as clear as the original Royal Italian Naval brief.
An iconic cushion case shape
The case of this new Radiomir Officine is not made of Panerai’s sustainable eSteel, which uses recycled material to make up around half of the watch’s total weight. Instead, the PAM01385 uses standard AISI 316L stainless steel. The familiar cushion case shape is present, but with the smooth, polished steel, it’s easy to appreciate the stunning lines. Something I never noticed previously is the gorgeous curvature of the case sides that taper to each corner. The rounding of the edges cuts an elegant silhouette with a svelte feel despite the 45mm diameter. The iconic cone-shaped crown complements the case, which has a jewel-like appearance and ergonomic practicality. You’ll find the relief-engraved OP logo on the crown’s raised top surface.
Powering the PAM01385 is the hand-wound P.6000 caliber with a three-day power reserve, 21,600vph frequency, and an Incabloc anti-shock device. The weekend-proof movement keeps the segmented hour hand, generously long minute hand, and leaf-shaped seconds in motion. With a solid steel screw-in case back, the Radiomir Officine achieves a 100m water resistance rating. However, the 27mm beige-stitched dark brown suede calfskin strap affixed to the wire lugs is not an ideal choice for aquatic activities. Still, with the chocolate dial and caramel indices (that glow green in low light), the strap nicely complements the brown-dominant aesthetic. Luckily, the strap is interchangeable with many of the 400+ options from Panerai’s strap selection to take under the waves.
Availability and pricing
The Panerai Radiomir Officine PAM01385 is a limited edition of 300 pieces with a price of €5,500 / £4,700 / US$5,400. It is available exclusively through Panerai’s online boutique, and you can read more about the watch on the brand’s website here.