Introducing: The One-Of-A-Kind Roger Dubuis Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl”  

After introducing a series of 28 Hommage La Placide biretrograde perpetual calendars last week, Roger Dubuis launches a second version of the tribute watch, debuting at Dubai Watch Week. The Roger Dubuis Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl” is a unique piece, featuring a 38mm platinum case and again showcasing the characteristic and historic biretrograde perpetual calendar. The Arabic word “sukoon” means “serenity,” and “al-layl” means “night.” The second tribute watch in a short period pays tribute to the watchmaker and founder of the brand, Roger Dubuis. As you would expect from a watch with an Arabic name, it features distinctive design elements, such as a guilloché dial that mimics the texture of desert sand.

After surprising long-time fans of Roger Dubuis with the Hommage La Placide, the brand strikes again shortly after with a unique piece that debuts during Dubai Watch Week. Instead of pink gold, the svelte 38 × 11mm case of the Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl” (price on request) is executed in platinum, including the crown and case back. But there’s more platinum to enjoy. The dual-deployant clasp featuring the classic “RD” logo is made of platinum as well. Even the stitching on the Astral Blue calfskin strap is done with platinum thread.

The dial of the Roger Dubuis Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl”

The Hommage La Placide presented itself with a striking “Leman Blue” lacquered dial and mother-of-pearl inlays. As you can see, Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl” is entirely different. Guilloché wave patterns, a signature of Roger Dubuis’s early creations, dominate the base of the dial. The pattern returns to evoke sand ripples shaped by desert winds. If you look carefully, you’ll see that the color is a very deep and dark blue, which RD calls “Astral Blue.” The idea is that it evokes the night sky just before dawn. Combined with its lacquered finish, the result is a dynamic interplay of light.

Mother-of-pearl once again helps to create a distinct look. “MoP” is one of the materials Roger Dubuis pioneered in men’s watchmaking, so it’s a must for a tribute watch. This time, the natural material appears in mysterious blackish gray and shows a high-luster finish to amplify both radiance and contrast across the dial. On the flange, it carries a transferred minute track and features polished bevels that add an extra touch of brilliance.

This same MoP adorns the calendar segments and counters, showing transferred markings and hand-beveled edges. For contrast, the hour and minute hands are 18K white gold, while four Arabic numerals appear as a homage to Middle Eastern culture. Completing the composition is a moonphase disc. It consists of a blue aventurine base and two subtly domed 18K yellow gold moons.

A signature movement

The Hommage “Sukoon Al-Layl” uses the same movement as La Placide, meaning you get the caliber RD1472. This movement features the enhanced RD14 movement, combined with the biretrograde perpetual calendar module RD72. The RD14 has a history dating back to 2004, marking Roger Dubuis’s first in-house automatic caliber. It returns with a combination of original and remanufactured components. Notable features include its swan-neck regulator and pistol-shaped bridges. These hallmarks of traditional pocket watches pay tribute to the heritage of horology, which was close to the heart of the master watchmaker Roger Dubuis.

First launched in 1999, the RD72 module is celebrated for its perpetual calendar complication and biretrograde display. The module integrates indicators for the day, date, month, leap year, and moon phase. RD remanufactured the mainplate, the large bridge, and half of the module’s components, including levers, springs, wheels, and pinions, to achieve a movement that brings back sweet memories. The biretrograde look reminds devoted watch fans of the early 1990s. Do you remember when the biretrograde complication graced not just the Hommage but also the curvy Sympathie? If you don’t, find those watches online and enjoy.

Of course, this would not be a Roger Dubuis watch without a Poinçon de Genève certification. Thus, the fully assembled movement undergoes extended setting and testing to meet the chronometry standards established by the Poinçon de Genève in 2012. The sapphire-equipped case back offers a view of the 307-part movement, which features a central 18K pink gold rotor. If you take your time and look closely enough, you might be able to distinguish the 15 finishing techniques used to decorate the complicated movement.

So, what do you think of the Roger Dubuis Hommage “Sukkon Al-Layl”? Do you prefer this one-of-one creation to last week’s La Placide? If so, I’d suggest getting in touch with the brand ASAP.