Although Hublot is known for an arresting aesthetic, the Sang Bleu collection takes things to another level. With their bewitching dials, and multi-faceted, optionally-bejeweled cases, the Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II watches are the very definition of statement pieces.

Given the breadth of Hublot‘s past experimentation with materials and aesthetics, it is perhaps surprising that the Sang Bleu collection still occupies an island of outlandishness. These new models, born of the continued collaboration between Hublot and tattoo studio Sang Bleu, double down on that trend. For this outing, both new timepieces put the color blue front and center. Available in both titanium and King gold housings, both limited editions retain the sculptural character of their predecessors. Pleasingly, customers have the option to choose between either stone-set or bare-metal cases, which will no doubt widen the appeal of the Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II (if only a little).

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Artistic expression over legibility

Anyone that knows me knows that I like Hublot a lot. If I could marry a specific department in the watch industry, I would be down on one knee, begging Hublot’s foundry to make me the happiest watch reviewer in the world. And whether or not the mysterious, hot, experimental corner of Hublot’s Nyon-based factory said yes, I would continue to love it forevermore.

While I can certainly see the appeal of the Sang Bleu line, it is just a bit too much for me…

This unhealthy obsession with the dark arts performed in that foundry buys Hublot a lot of slack in my book, even when it misses the mark with a design or two. And while I can certainly see the appeal of the Sang Bleu line, it is just a bit too much for me (and I was on-board with the squid ink experiment, too).

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A crisscrossing dial design prioritizes artistic expression over legibility. While the merry dance of the skeletonized dial wheels (that replace traditional hands) is mesmerizing, it is less than useful. One could imagine it taking you more time than you have to spare to figure out what time it is, so you’re not late to the extremely well-paying job you’d need to afford this timepiece in the first place.

The HUB1240 automatic flyback chronograph, beats inside of these unashamed wrist sculptures, offering a 72-hour run time on a full wind. This 330-component caliber operates at 28,800vph and is visible through a sapphire display back.

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Dressed to play cricket

Both the titanium and King Gold versions come on black and blue rubber straps, which continue the plunging “V” design that extends from the center of the watch along its vertical axis. It’s a cute pattern, although it does kind of look like your watch is dressed to play cricket in a V-neck slipover. That said, if a batsman chose a diamond-encrusted model and wore it on a sunny day at Lords, no bowler would have a chance in hell of finding the stumps.

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Both versions are limited. The Titanium Blue model (418.NX.5107.RX.MXM20) is restricted to 200 pieces, while the King Gold Blue model (418.OX.5108.RX.MXM20) limited to just 100. It seems there is no distinction between bejeweled or bare cases in this limitation, suggesting Hublot will make these up as and when they are purchased. With a 45mm diameter and 16.05mm thickness, the Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II models have the requisite heft to achieve a 100-meter water-resistance rating (if you fancy impressing your aquatic friends). Prices will be €25,200 for the Ti model, and a cool €47,300 if you want to strap the King Gold to your wrist. Learn more about Hublot here.