Even for us watch journalists, it’s sometimes hard to keep up with all the new releases out there. That’s why it’s nice that brands sometimes invite us over to take a look at their new stuff instead of simply sending press releases. Last Monday, for example, the entry-level brands of the Swatch group invited us to stop by. Certina, Rado, Hamilton, and Balmain were all present, and, of course, Tissot was also there. And I think it was the brand’s new 40mm version of its Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 that surprised me the most that day.

We actually recorded a podcast right then and there to discuss all the new releases from the aforementioned brands. Unfortunately, some are still under embargo, so we will share the recording with you sometime in April — stay tuned. However, the new 40mm version of the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 has already gone public, so I’m glad that I can now share with you why I am so excited about it.

The Tissot Seastar

The Seastar name has been in the Tissot collection for quite some time now. On Chrono24, for example, you can find examples from the ’50s. However, its current design doesn’t have much in common with those earlier versions at all. It originates from 2018 when Tissot introduced a new 43mm version with a blue dial. In 2022, the brand added a few new color options alongside a quartz version. And then, almost exactly a year ago now, a 40mm version of that quartz variant debuted in blue, black, and two-tone. In his introduction article, Brandon already hinted that it would be nice to have a 40mm version with a mechanical Powermatic 80 movement inside. Well, Brandon, it took Tissot a little while, but here they are.

A grown-up 40mm Seastar Powermatic 80

Obviously, this new Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 has a 40mm case size, excluding the crown guards. Officially, it’s 12.5mm thick, but when we measured it, it looked more like 12.8mm. That might be because Tissot didn’t include the slightly domed sapphire crystal. The lug-to-lug span comes in at 46mm, which makes this a very compact 40mm dive watch. While the tops of the lugs feature vertical brushing, there is also a polished ridge and a brushed notch running along both sides of the case. The Oyster-style bracelet has brushed outer links and a polished center link to match the finishing on the case. It tapers from 20mm between the lugs to 18mm at the stamped clasp and features quick-release spring bars to make swapping between different strap options easy.

I think I know why it took Tissot a little longer to release this new Powermatic 80 version of the Seastar. It’s not like the brand simply swapped the quartz movement for a mechanical one. When you have both versions side by side, you immediately see that a lot more work went into the finishing of the Powermatic 80 version. It looks like a much more grown-up watch than its more affordable quartz counterpart. And that doesn’t only count for the finishing of the case but also the dials.

Four different versions

Even though the Tissot website mentions five different versions of the 40mm Seastar, we only know about four. All of them are made of 316L stainless steel, and although they differ in color, they share the same dial design. Like the 43mm versions, the dials feature a classic diver’s layout. There are applied indices every five minutes, which eat slightly into the concave minute track. Both the indices and sword hands have an application of Super-LumiNova. The date window at 6 o’clock is big, easy to read, and has a nice frame around it. I also like the fact that the date wheel is black.

The dials on all versions are vertically brushed and have a (very trendy) fumé effect. The two “naked” stainless steel versions are available with a turquoise or dark gray dial, and the latter is the same color as on the two-tone gold PVD-coated version. In that case, however, it’s paired with gold-tone indices, hands, and printing. Finally, the fully black PVD-coated version features a blue dial. That’s also the only version that comes on a black Tropic-style strap instead of a bracelet. All versions have a bezel insert made of mineral crystal with a black background.

A very sturdy and capable diver

With the screw-down crown in between the crown guards, you can operate the Powermatic 80 movement inside. This automatic caliber runs at a 21,600vph frequency, features 23 jewels, and provides 80 hours of power reserve. You can take a look at its basic surface finishing through the sapphire window on the case back. As the name of the Seastar already suggests, it’s water resistant to a depth of 1,000 feet (roughly 300 meters). All in all, I think this is an impressive package at a price that stays well under €1,000.

Final thoughts

Honestly, I had never really paid attention to the Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 before. That’s probably because I was almost sure that its 43mm case would be too big for my 17cm wrist. But when I tried on the black PVD version of the 40mm Seastar, I was immediately impressed. It offers well-balanced proportions, and the notched sides add a nice touch. I also feel the dial is very well executed for a watch at this price point. It’s vertically brushed, has a fumé effect (whether that’s good or bad is up to you), and features applied indices.

The movement inside should be very reliable, and it’s also resistant to the magnetic fields you encounter day in and day out. Throw its water resistance on top, and you end up with a very good deal at €795. Heck, even the bracelet comes with quick-release spring bars. If you’d like to know more about the new 40mm Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80, check out the brand’s official website.

Let me know in the comments below what you think of the smaller addition to the Tissot Seastar collection.

Watch specifications

Brand
Model
Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Reference
T120.807.11.051.00 (stainless steel, gray dial) / T120.807.11.091.00 (stainless steel, turquoise dial) / T120.807.22.051.00 (two-tone gold PVD, gray dial) / T120.807.37.041.00 (black PVD, blue dial)
Dial
Gray, turquoise, or blue with vertical brushing, fumé effect, and applied luminous indices
Case Material
Stainless steel
Case Dimensions
40mm (diameter) x 12.5mm (thickness) x 46mm (lug to lug)
Crystal
Sapphire
Case Back
Stainless steel with sapphire crystal, screw-in
Movement
Tissot Powermatic 80: automatic and manual winding, 21,600vph frequency, 80-hour power reserve, 23 jewels
Water Resistance
300m (30 ATM)
Strap
Stainless steel three-row bracelet / Rubber Tropic-style strap (black PVD model only)
Functions
Time (hours, minutes, seconds), date, 60-minute dive bezel
Price
€795
Warranty
Two years