Andersen Genève is one of those brands for those in the know. Its wrist-worn wares are classical takes on watchmaking seen through the eyes of Svend Andersen. The Danish emigre turns 80 this year, and it doesn’t seem to have put any dampers on his creativity. I have a feeling the Andersen Genève × Asprey “Heures du Monde” Worldtimer will only cement my impression of quiet, hand-crafted elegance.

In between training watchmakers like Franck Muller and Felix Baumgartner, Andersen’s output has been studied and limited, eschewing the tides of fashion to my delight. And despite being so entrenched in this love of watchmaking, the brand slips under even my journalist radar. I have a feeling this is about to change, as the “Heures du Monde” is an eye-opener.

Andersen Genève Heures du Monde

Travel the world in style with the British answer to Tiffany

The world of dual-signed dials is a tantalizing one, and Asprey is one of the rarer brands to get involved. Its London address is pretty much the British answer to Tiffany & Co. of New York, with a Royal Crest to its name for a reason. The Asprey order books go back several generations of the Royal Family and dignitaries from Maharajahs to The Beatles. Asprey was responsible for introducing Patek to the UK and has a storied past of dual-signed dials to its name. World-time watches have been a signature of Andersen Genève, but the “Heures du Monde” Worldtimer was created specifically together with Asprey with recognizable Andersen details. The image is one of mid-century world travel, suited up for a flight or with a Louis Vuitton trunk on an ocean liner.

All about the dial

I’ll get back to the sweet-sized case, but this, to be fair, is about the dial. The ’40s and ’50s inspirations lead my thoughts to the fabled Patek Philippe world timers with their intricate inner dials. And this is where the AG clues are at their richest. The center of the dial with its intricate diamond-weave pattern is actually hand-crafted guilloche in 21K gold with a distinct petrol-blue tint. BlueGold is a signature touch of Andersen Genève, but here, the motif is taken from Asprey perfume bottles and has a glass-like appearance. The rich blue center vies for attention with what is a practical complication, the 24-hour rotating disc and city ring. The latter is also charmingly daydream-inducing, and the isolating cold hand of COVID-19 seems a decade ago.

Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde

A quirky case study

The case size is a restrained 39.8mm, which, on paper, might seem large for such deep classicism. Visually, however, with the broad and evocative silvery city ring encircling the 24-hour rotating ring, it will wear smaller. The hour and minute hands are a bit small for my taste, but they are in absolute proportion to the BlueGold tapestry-like center. Matching their red gold luster are vertically opposed Andersen Genève and Asprey logos. For a dual-signed dial, the fonts and size of the two storied names are equally contrasting as they bring a discreet balance to the busy backdrop.

The Andersen Genève x Asprey Worldtime

The case is understated classicism, all-polished with some gorgeous lugs. To some, the Andersen triangular lug shape may seem at odds with the smooth case. For me, the quirky juxtaposition brings out the best in both elements while also speaking the same language as the skeletonized delta-shaped hands. Turning the case around, you will be faced with the same depths of BlueGold in the rotor. Here it swivels slowly across a remastered A.Schild 1876 base movement featuring Andersen’s in-house world-time module. At £55,000 and available exclusively from Asprey, the “Heures du Monde” Worldtimer is simply beguiling.

Dear Fratelli, what is your take on Andersen Genève × Asprey? Does it make you want to put on your best suit for an intercontinental flight. ? Or would you rather stay at home with a loupe? Let us know in the comments, I’m off to find my best tie.

Find me and follow me: @thorsvaboe

This is a preferred-position post. Learn more.