Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Rolex?

Two vintage fans discuss their wants

January 09, 2024

comments 54

We’re back with a new episode of Fratello On Air, and this time, we ask what would make each other buy a new Rolex. While there’s no question that the brand makes amazing watches, we tend to be vintage lovers around here. Considering that, what would make us pull the trigger on a new model?

A new Rolex watch is on everyone’s shopping list, right? Not so fast. Neither of your co-hosts has a new Rolex at the top of our shopping lists. So, what would sway us? We talk about the models we do enjoy and a couple of desired changes to the lineup. Then, we shift gears and discuss the Longines Spirit Zulu Time and whether it truly stacks up against the Tudor Black Bay GMT. We hope you enjoy the show!

Handgelenks Kontrolle

We kick off our episode on what would cause us to buy a new Rolex with our normal banter. We start with shoes, and there’s a lot of excitement around the upcoming releases in 2024. We mention a few pairs that we’ll be watching closely as the year rolls forward. When it comes to the Handgelenks Kontrolle, Balazs kicks it off with his Rolex 1675 GMT-Master. He’s sporting this after wearing his friend’s vintage Rolex 5513 in Hungary. Mike is donning a vintage 35mm Tissot pointer date from the late ’40s. We discuss the history of these watches and our thoughts.

Image: The Watch Club

Buying a new Rolex

Both Balazs and I love our vintage Rolex watches. We admire current Rolex watches and do like certain models, including the GMT-Master II in “Pepsi” form, the Daytona, and even the 36mm Datejust. However, we miss the days of the more rugged and simple Rolex watches. As a result, we express our thoughts on what changes to the lineup would make us desire a new model.

After this, we move on to a discussion about the Longines Spirit Zulu Time and Longines in general. The brand has truly made some strides over the last several years. It is now often in the same discussions as Tudor, and we discuss whether this makes sense or not.

We hope you enjoy this latest episode, and thank you for listening! As always, if you have ideas for future shows, let us know.

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Fratello On Air: What Would Make You Buy A New Rolex?

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Phil says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 09:26

A flyback chronograph with pump pushers, preferably no date. They still don’t offer a perpetual calendar either.

Reply
DG
GoldenYears says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 09:55

My wife and I feel that we currently have more than enough Rolex watches in our collection. Rolex is not on our wish list. We just returned from our monthlong holiday where we toured four countries. We looked at many watches but never once stepped into a Rolex AD.

However, if Rolex was to make available a titanium 36mm Explorer or 36mm OP or a 40mm GMT, we probably would probably be very interested.

Reply
1. Enuona says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 12:20
  
  Welcome back Goldenyears, hopefully your holiday was a great one 👍🏻
  
  Both Explorer and Explorer II would become more interesting by using titanium I’d argue. And straps 😁
  
  Reply
  1. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Jan 09, 2024 at 14:23
    
    Thanks, my friend. Yes, our holiday was a great one but too long and too much moving around. My wife and I are exhausted now and suffering from jet lag. Hope your holiday season was fantastic and joyful!
    
    Reply
    1. Enuona says:
      
      Jan 09, 2024 at 14:55
      
      Glad it went well. You need to embrace laziness, recovering from jet lag is a good start 😎
      
      2 Christmas celebrations this year, joined orthodox friends. Can’t complain 👍🏻
      
      Reply
      1. DG
        GoldenYears says:
        
        Jan 09, 2024 at 15:15
        
        Haha! Wish we could embrace laziness.
        
        Reply
2. Deadahead says:
  
  Mar 24, 2024 at 10:41
  
  I looked over many Rolex watches. I never saw one that truly peaked my interest and I can easily afford one. What I come to love, are Citizen Eco Drive watches. For under 1000 dollars. They keep time great, no winding, and date is always correct.
  
  I have been to outings where my friend will have his Rolex Panda and I will be wearing my Citizen Eco Drive Calibre 2100. Classic white face with three black dials. More people came over to me. To tell me, that’s a nice watch, what brand is it. People were shocked it was a Citizen. I still do not know why Citizen hasn’t risen to the levels of Rolex. Yes, Rolex may have a better movement. They also have the never ending waitlist etc.
  
  I have worn the Citizen daily since, without issue. Purchased in around 2005.
  
  Reply
  1. DG
    GoldenYears says:
    
    Mar 24, 2024 at 22:50
    
    Citizen is a great brand. 👍🏻 One of my first uktra thin dress watches was a Noblia branded watch. Noblia was wholely owned by the Citizen Corp. Noblia went out of business after only being in business a few years. This was around 40 years ago. Can’t go wrong with Citizen. I hardly wear my Rolex watches anymore. Wearing Omega these days. Take care 👍🏻
    
    Reply
Warky says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 10:06

I sold a few current model Rolex last year and can’t see me buying any new ones this year. My wife and I were offered a few last year that we turned down. The only one I would consider is a Pepsi on Jubilee – but I think those are currently even more difficult to get than a steel Daytona and I don’t want it enough to continue playing the games necessary.

I am more than happy with the Rolexes that I kept and can’t immediately think of something they could bring out or a change they could make to an existing model that would get me down to the AD again 🤷‍♂️

Reply
Dennis says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 10:07

Sorry, not interested in buying any other new Rolex, whatever new design or function, since they are just another unobtainium. I am just fed up with the fake waiting list or authorised dealers trying to sell you 3 lady day-just before you got on list for the new GMT.

Enough is enough.

Reply
MB
MarkBu says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 10:18

Absolutely nothing that I can’t reasonably conceive.

Nothing against them; they’re just not for me.

Reply
Enuona says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 10:56

Being convinced that there are no issues whatsoever with 32xx would make a new one preferable to 31xx iterations. At present that is as likely as avoiding a mortal one survivor combat with my wallet. Beyond those minor issues, I’d pick a Sub with the right colour 2nd to a more toned down Titanium Yachtmaster. Great designs.

Reply
1. BioCeramic says:
  
  Jan 10, 2024 at 07:48
  
  I pulled out of buying a 32XX-equipped Explorer II from the AD recently; have my eyes on an older GMT II instead.
  
  Unless I am mistaken (please correct me if I am) the 32XX series are the first movements released in the post-Aegler acquisition period – experience with other products has taught me to “take it slow” with the “Mk 1” of anything.
  
  Reply
  1. Enuona says:
    
    Jan 10, 2024 at 11:25
    
    Believe that’s correct, but those deep into Rolex would be a way better source than I am.
    
    Way above my budget anyway, but reliability is at the core of what one should expect from Rolex, and I see no point if the trust is absent. So far, I haven’t come across any reliably info confirming no issues with 32xx movements, and as far as I’m aware the issues are accepted by sober Rolex enthusiasts. Presume Daytonas are the only high power reserve iterations that makes sense at present, seen from afar.
    
    Reply
LC
Chow says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 11:01

The one that I’m waiting for the call on is the RG Sky Dweller with the aqua dial. Besides that I pretty much have all of the ones that I want.

Reply
MJ
Martinl says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 11:25

Still looking for a 36mm yellow gold day-date – waiting for vintage prices to drop further and a good example, but apart from that have all the modern Rolex I could want.

Reply
EB
EDDI2142 says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 12:18

Thanks for the interesting discussion =)

Concerning the main discussion. I would want to see the design of modern Rolex watches convert more to the design from the 60s. But perhaps I’m just too much interested in vintage designs.

Sidenote: It would be nice if you could provide links or pics of the watches that you talk about. F.ex. Mike’s new Tissot or that Omega with a Sweden connection. Sometimes it’s difficult to follow the podcast and look up the watches.
I’m aware that some pics are usually included in the article, but more is better in my opinion.

Reply
1Gav1 says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 12:33

If they were to release a Le Mans dial Daytona in steel I would probably want that, but fat chance of getting it, so not likely to buy anything new. My current Daytona is all I need really.

Reply
Joe says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 14:15

Nada, most expensive boring watches around

Reply
PL
Plecren says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 14:54

Would happily buy either a white dial Explorer 2 or a pepsi on oyster if they would let me. I have been on the list for both for some years now so probably a pipe dream.

Were funds unlimited I could be tempted by a YG day date one day. Assuming one were actually available of course.

Reply
FateAmenableToChange says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 15:34

When you ask me what would make me buy a new Rolex…. I just don’t dig on their designs much. The brand doesn’t do it for me. The one watch I like is a mid 2000s 40mm Polar, but even if they made the current Polar smaller, I would not shell out 10500 for a tool watch. In my world, dresswatches may get expensive, toolwatches should not stray above the 4000 Euro line, ever.

So either Rolex maintains its pricepoint and starts making really swanky dress watches to compete with the likes of Cartier and JLC, or they continue making run of the mill sportswatches and start selling them at a reasonable price.

All in all, it looks like I’ll buy a Rolex when pigs fly.

Reply
AK
AlexK says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 15:53

What Would Make Me Buy A New Rolex?

Would that be the opportunity to flip it for double the bunce due to a misalignment of primary and secondary markets?

Reply
RW
Spartyfan6262 says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 16:43

Thanks for the tip on Sneakernews.com. I’ve never had a Rimowa, but I just got carryon luggage made by the Company “Away.” It’s easily the best carryon I’ve ever used and I recommend it.

I’m not currently in the market for a Rolex – I own a 2015 Submariner and 2003 Explorer and am very happy with those. For me, the lack of desire to get another is drive by: (a) how flashy current Rolex models are; (b) price and lack of availability; and (c) watch crime. Rolex has moved away from the tool watches I really enjoyed into high end luxury. Now, Tudor offers what I wanted out of Rolex, at a lower price point.

All of that said, I would look into a Rolex if the brand: (a) offered a new Coke GMT Master II with brushed bracelet links; or (b) reintroduced the black bezel/black dial/green GMT hand GMT Master II.

Reply
1. balazs says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 20:58
  
  Away is awesome too. D wade was sponsored by them at one point I think. Great suitcases I heard.
  
  Reply
  1. RW
    Spartyfan6262 says:
    
    Jan 10, 2024 at 00:39
    
    Didn’t know Wade was a spokeperson. Really cool. Away luggage is terrific. Wife bought it for me and it’s the only one tough enough to withstand 6 months of travel while still rolling easily. And they have a lifetime guarantee.
    
    Reply
2. SC
  Tam O’ Banter says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 23:55
  
  I agree. For me, Tudor is what Rolex was. Modern Rolex are unappealing to me.
  And the 15-20 year old Rolexes, nice as they are, have been superseded by modern Tudor.
  Mrs Banter really wants my TF and I have told her she can have it in exchange for a BB Pro.
  
  Reply
  1. RW
    Spartyfan6262 says:
    
    Jan 10, 2024 at 00:33
    
    Excellent point, Tam. Why buy an early 90s Submariner, when you can get a Black Bay 58 for half the price? Or an Explorer II from 2001 when you can have a Black Bay Pro for less than half price?
    
    Reply
    1. SC
      Tam O’ Banter says:
      
      Jan 10, 2024 at 12:20
      
      I can’t be the only one who feels the brand has tarnished itself beyond redemption. And the er….attitude from owners does nothing to increase the appeal.
      Anyway…..it’s just a wristwatch.
      
      Reply
AM
Veliero says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 17:05

At the moment nothing inspires me to buy another Rolex. I have the ones I want and what seems to be bouncing out of the Crown´s HQ at the moment is, in my view and I am unhappy to say, just boring. Like waiting for a bus, this year has started off speedily for me with 3 arrving at the same time but none are Rolex and I just cannot see any of the current line up on my wrist.

Reply
TS
Tisoy33 says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 17:17

Even if I could afford to blow that kind of money on frivolity, I wouldn’t buy “your grandfathers watch”. I would far rather have an A Lange & Sohne or Ulysse Nardin.

Reply
Tristan says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 17:34

The word you’re looking for at the start must be “Krapfen”.

Don’t care for the sneaker talk, but lovin’ the bits about expat life in Germany.

Reply
1. balazs says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 20:59
  
  So long as you find something you like 😉
  
  Reply
Zacke says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 18:04

Omega Officer and Suverän was sold in sweden as part of the wareffort. Officer beeing the smaller at 32-33 mm of the two and Suverän beeing the bigger at 36mm. They were only sold on the swedish market with swedish text on the case back

Reply
1. EB
  EDDI2142 says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 20:17
  
  Thanks for listing the names. I just checked them out and they look quite nice.
  @Balazs maybe you can bring them up in a future episode or in an article =)
  
  Reply
  1. balazs says:
    
    Jan 09, 2024 at 21:00
    
    We surely will. They are awesome!!
    
    Reply
    1. Zack says:
      
      Jan 12, 2024 at 23:15
      
      Im happy to help out with more information if needed, and it would be nice to hear you guys talk about them.
      
      Reply
Johan says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 18:31

Availability?

The one I wish they would remake is the Tigereye, with a deep red enamel dial on a jubilee.

Other than that I have a hard time justifying a new Rolex now that we live in a watch renaissance with exciting stuff coming out every day.

Reply
JB says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 18:41

If this is 2024, yes, for sure stick to tennis shoes.

Reply
Funkright says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 19:06

Titanium Sky Dweller or GMT that didn’t involve the ethereal waitlist or the projection of such.

Reply
JW
OldJohnBulova says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 19:38

In my American city with large numbers of Central and Eastern Europeans, they are apart from “Paczki” they are most often called “Bismarck”s. Perhaps that is the donutty word he is looking for? I have a Swedish friend who travels around a lot and he called them “Berlinders” or Berlinerbollz though I’ve never heard anyone else call it that 🤷‍♂️

Reply
1. Enuona says:
  
  Jan 09, 2024 at 20:15
  
  Berliner, Berliner Ballen, Berlinerbollen, Boules de Berlin, Krapfen. Good stuff if made properly without industrial cheating. Have made it a few times, but I prefer to make profiteroles or choux pastry (believe that’s the translations) If I’m in the mood.
  
  Wish we had a Creperie (food truck) with wine and spirits licence frequently stationed in the neighbourhood by the way. There’s a slight chance I’d be a regular…
  
  Reply
Hubertje says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 19:57

2003 prices would make me consider a rolex.

Reply
MW
Mike whitt says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 20:14

Availability

Reply
V. says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 21:13

No Rolex branding on the rehaut, female end links for the bracelet, and matte ceramic bezels for the divers.

Reply
SB
S.M.B says:

Jan 09, 2024 at 23:57

I have not listened yet but reading the comment makes me happy to hear that sneaker and luggage chat are ahead. I was into sneakers for many years and owned a lot. As I got older I have moved on to dress shoes and causal loafers and boat shoes. I have a love for bags and luggage and would love to get a new suitcase and briefcase this year. The problem is that I am not traveling at all for work and I work from home so a briefcase would sit unused in my office. We do have some short range travel planned for the year so maybe a nice piece of luggage is in order. I have come across a brand called Briggs and Riley and they look great.

As for Rolex, I love the brand but as I have a Explorer I am quite content.

Reply
Rainnette Henson-Wiggins says:

Jan 10, 2024 at 02:35

If money was no object and I had a large amount of money I would buy a Rolex

Reply
Johnno says:

Jan 10, 2024 at 09:44

I’ve wanted a 36mm steel datejust with oyster bracelet and smooth steel bezel for a few years now, but not enough to play the games, and the current prices (true for many brands) now are just silly.
I really don’t like the 6-digit era sports watches (Sub, GMT, ExpII etc)

Reply
ER
ERR19_16 says:

Jan 10, 2024 at 12:20

If Longines added the on the fly adjustable clasp from the new Hydroconquest GMT to the Spirit line, I’d buy 1 instantly as I prefer a 24 hr bezel on a GMT vs the dive bezel of the HC. I really like the recent Hodinkee Spirit in titanium but didn’t buy because of the clasp.

Reply
DM
TacoPants says:

Jan 10, 2024 at 15:10

Chamfers. Chamfers make me feel feelings. Current cases seem lazy in comparison to vintage (especially the fully polished DJ current case🤢). Those older cases managed to disguise the overall watch’s dimensions much more artfully. Plus vintage and neo vintage era Rolex didn’t look awkward on a nato or leather strap. In fact, both were great ways to make the watch look more discrete when you were traveling.

Reply
JG
JG says:

Jan 10, 2024 at 15:34

I bought my own brand new Deepsea. Waited decades until I had educated my children. Paid cash too. I wear the hell out of it. On military operations, diving, under a suit and occasionally a tuxedo. Don’t care what anyone thinks. My Rolex, my story, It’ll be vintage by the time I shuffle off.

Reply
Tim says:

Jan 10, 2024 at 17:19

4 Digit Reference or Plexi only.
So much more style, more comfortable to wear as less bulky and also more understatement as they do not bling. Guest opinion 🙂

Reply
Paul Mountain says:

Jan 10, 2024 at 19:29

I walk past my local Rolex AD on a regular basis.they still have a window full of Rolex watches with the now mandatory. For display only. Sign. Underneath are a selection of overpriced pre owned ones. Sorry but not for me.i refuse to join the circus of Rolex sales madness.

Reply
Paige Augusti says:

Jan 11, 2024 at 00:24

MSRP pricing

Reply
MG
maciej-g says:

Jan 11, 2024 at 15:33

Being able to buy the Z-Blue Milgauss…. yes, pleaseeee…..

Reply