Fratello’s Top 5 Vintage And Neo Vintage Rolex Submariner Models
Another Friday, another list! This week, we compiled a list of our favorite vintage Rolex Submariner models. While classic Rolexes are always a topic of discussion, recently Submariners and GMT-Masters have been discussed quite a bit in the Fratello offices. It is no coincidence because Robert-Jan recently added a vintage GMT-Master to his collection, and Balazs treated himself to a vintage Submariner. The magnetic pull of classic Rolex models is undeniable, so we decided to create this list of our five favorite vintage Subs.
Before entering our favorites list, explain how we approached this week’s list. It is a combination of shared favorite references that are also somewhat affordable. As we all know, you can spend a fortune on a rare vintage Rolex Submariner. But we like to pick things within reach rather than selecting the unobtainable collector’s items. So, consider this a list of Subs that we would spend our money on, resulting in a collective set of smiles. Let’s get started.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Submariner ref. 5513
Let’s kick this list off with a collective favorite. If most of the Fratello team had the choice, they would pick the Rolex Submariner ref. 5513. The main reason is the dial’s visual balance, with only two lines of text compared to four lines of most of the ref. 5512 models. Most of you will know that the difference comes from a difference in movement. But it results in a visual difference that many of us prefer. On top of that, the price difference between the ref. 5512 and ref. 5513 is rather significant as well. The ref. 5512 is far rarer, with a total production of one-tenth of the ref. 5513 production number.
Image: Bulang & Sons
A quick recap of the ref. 5513. This specific Submariner reference was introduced in 1962, three years after the brand presented the ref. 5512. The watch stayed in production until 1989, resulting in a variety of different available dial options. Rolex collectors generally distinguish three eras when it comes to dials.
A Submariner ref. 5513 with a gilt dial – Image: Bulang & Sons
The first are the gilt dials, which were produced from 1962 until roughly 1967. The second are the matte dials, which were produced from 1967 until 1984. Lastly, there are the glossy dials, which were offered from 1984 until 1989. These modern dials also introduced the white gold hour markers filled with lume rather than the painted lume plots that came before.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Finding a favorite ref. 5513
Within those three eras, there are almost endless dial variations that we won’t get into today. If you ask for our favorite dial era, it will undoubtedly be gilt dials. Those are also the most expensive. On top of that, it is of utmost importance to buy from reputable dealers or at least do a lot of homework before you jump at the chance to buy one. But that is the case with all the vintage Rolex models on this list. Inside the case, Rolex used the caliber 1530 to start with and later switched to the caliber 1520, which upped the beat rate from 18,000vph to 19,800vph but was a less advanced movement than its predecessor.
Image: Bulang & Sons
While most of the Fratello team members would love to own a gilt-dial version of the ref. 5513, setting your sights on a matte-dial version is more realistic. Prices start at roughly €10K and easily move up to €50K for pieces in excellent condition (or with a special dial).
Image: Bulang & Sons
Overall, ref. 5513 is a fitting testament to what makes the Rolex Submariner such an interesting vintage watch. There is a ton of history to learn and variations to check out before settling on the one you want. This makes it our first pick and the undisputed Fratello favorite of the classic Submariners.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Submariner ref. 1680
The Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 was introduced in 1969 and is the first Submariner reference with a date window. Rolex produced the watch with the Submariner text printed in red until 1975, hence its nickname “Red Sub.” From 1976 until 1979, the brand made the same reference with a matte black dial with the Submariner word printed in white. While most people would probably pick the Red Sub, I have to say that I have grown to like the simplified dials that came after. Still, seeing a Red Sub truly feels like something special.
Image: Bulang & Sons
However, it must be said that the Red Subs are not as rare as some make them out to be. The watch was produced with red text on the bottom half for most of its production run. Knowing that the reference’s total production number is over 110,000 pieces will give you a good indication that it’s actually not that rare at all.
Image: The Watch Club
Regarding specs and details, the watch came with a 40mm stainless steel case similar to the dateless versions. The main visual difference between the ref. 1680 and the ref. 5512/5513, besides the date window, is the crystal. Not only does it have the characteristic cyclops, but it’s overall a lot higher than the crystal of the versions without the date. I quite like seeing that profile because it gives the watch a ton of character. Would I pick it over a ref. 5513? The answer would be a definite no, but it would not be far down the list of favorites that come after.
Image: The Watch Club
Finding your favorite may take time
Inside the case, Rolex used its automatic caliber 1575. This movement operated at 19,800vph and offered 48 hours of power reserve. Rolex used the caliber for the entire production run of the Submariner ref. 1680. Once its successor, ref. 16800 was presented, and the brand upgraded the movement to the caliber 3035.
Image: The Watch Club
Prices for a ref. 1680 start just under €10K. That will buy you a version with the Submariner text in white. The prices for a Red Sub start at a little over €15K, which is remarkable, as I just explained, because most of the production numbers come with the red text.
Image: The Watch Club
Prices for the ref. 1680 easily move up to €30K for the rare dial variants and the pieces in excellent condition. But you can easily buy one with a clear all-white-text dial between €10K and €15K. If you insist on a Red Sub, you’ll have to save up at least €15K to €20K. That will get you a classic Submariner. Sure, it’s not the dateless Sub most of us would pick. But I have to say that its historical relevance and the clunky stacking of elements make up the characteristic profile of the ref. 1680. It’s a winner in my book.
Rolex Submariner ref. 14060
Another immediate collective pick for this list is the Rolex Submariner ref. 14060. But it led to quite a bit of discussion. If you ask me, I would never pick the ref. 14060 because the hour markers are too small for my taste. I prefer the classic larger hour markers, as I have gone on record to state here on Fratello. Then again, for other people on the team, this is a great classic, that is affordable in the realm of Submariners as we will find out. Thomas wrote a lengthy article asking whether the ref. 14060M is the pinnacle of no-date dive watches?
Let’s first look at some details. The Submariner ref. 14060 was introduced in 1989 as the successor to the legendary ref. 5513. In 2001, Rolex upgraded the movement with the ref. 14060M, which stayed in production until the ref. 114060 was introduced in 2012. But that addition of the “M” also sparked a discussion. While it is easy to pick the ref. 14060 because of its upgraded caliber 3130 compared to the caliber 3000 that powered the ref. 14060, there is a reason for some to pick the earlier version.
The ultimate neo-vintage Submariner
It has to do with the combination of a two-line dial and tritium lume. As some of you will know, Rolex used tritium lume until 1998. That’s when the brand switched to LumiNova before finally moving on to Super-LumiNova in 2000. As a result, the tritium dials will develop patina over time, adding charm to the overall look. That is precisely why I would choose a Tritium dial Sea-Dweller ref. 16600, as well as my long-awaited Rolex daily wearer.
Whatever your reasons for choosing the ref. 14060 or 14060M, there is no denying that it is a great option that combines the charm of the past with modern-day solutions, making it a great daily watch even today. Multiple people on the Fratello team own a ref. 14060M, and some would love to add it to their collections.
The great thing is that it’s also the most affordable Submariner to buy. You can pick up a ref. 14060 starting at roughly €7K, but spend a little more, and you can choose between different versions that look great. Overall, finding a ref. 14060 in good condition under €10K should be fairly easy, making it a great option.
Rolex Submariner ref. 16610LV
Another five-digit favorite is the Rolex Submariner ref. 16610LV. Most of you will immediately understand why we prefer it over the regular ref. 16610. You know where this is going after that story of smaller hour markers. The ref. 16610 was produced from 1988 until 2010, but the ref. 16610LV didn’t join the collection until 2003.
The watch was released as the 50th anniversary model and introduced the green bezel insert for a nice pop of color. But even more importantly, the Maxi Dial introduced an updated look with larger framed indices that we associate with the modern Submariner. The overall balance of elements takes me back to the classics that I talked about earlier, like the ref. 5513 and the ref. 1680.
When the watch was unveiled in 2003, it wasn’t necessarily a big commercial success. I remember these sitting in the windows at Rolex retailers in the Netherlands when they came out. But not long after, fans jumped on the occasion to get these unique references, also known as “The Kermit.” Just like other ref. 16610 models, this special version has a dial with Super-LumiNova, a bracelet with solid end links, and is powered by the famous caliber 3135.
It makes it a great daily wearer. Over the course of its seven-year production run until 2010, Rolex produced five different bezel and dial designs, all with minimal differences. Despite this, the 16610LV is a great reference with its distinctive bezel color and modern dial design.
Slightly more expensive than its peers
When it comes to price, expect them to start around €10K, moving up to €18K easily for versions in top condition with box and papers. Althought the latter would be a great option, if you want to spend less you should be able to get one under €14K to €15K. What you get in return is a modern-day Submariner with the charm of the classic five-digit models fans love so much. It is a special version and one of my all-time favorite Submariners.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Submariner ref. 1680/8
Let’s end this list with a more extravagant pick. Sure, we could have picked the ref. 5512 to complete this list of collective favorites. That would make Robert-Jan happy because he favors the ref. 5512 over the ref. 5513 any day of the week. Despite my alignment with the rest of the team in the preference for ref. 5513, Robert-Jan and I find each other in the joint admiration for this classic full gold Submariner. The ref. 1680/8 is the gold version of the first Sub and was produced from 1969 until 1979.
Image: Bulang & Sons
You could choose either a blue or black version of the 1680/8 during its production run. The combination of a full gold case and bracelet with a vibrant blue dial and bezel is especially captivating. Over time, the color of these blue dials and bezels changed quite noticeably. We have seen versions that became darker, and some have a slightly purple glow like the one you see in the pictures. Rolex used its caliber 1575 inside the 1680/8. The movement operates at 19,800vph and has a 48-hour power reserve.
A black dial Submariner ref. 16808 – Image: The Watch Club
Picking between the ref. 1680/8 and the ref. 16808
So why this reference over the later ref. 16808? There is no reason, because both are great options. The latter might be the better technical choice, even. For the ref. 16808, Rolex switched to the caliber 3035, which upped the beat rate to 28,800vph. The aesthetic of the successor was mainly the same, with the nipple dial and the same available colors. Both colors have a certain charm. I have gone on record saying nothing beats the combination of black and gold, but seeing the blue version also excites me.
Image: The Watch Club
The gold versions cost more than the vintage stainless steel models. However, the price differences are not as drastic as you might think, simply because the vintage stainless steel references can be expensive. Expect to see prices for a full gold ref. 1680/8 or ref. 16808 start at a little over €20K and moves up to triple that amount for the ones in excellent condition. But you can buy one between €20K and €30K. For that money, you will buy a full gold version of one of Rolex’s greatest, if not the greatest, classics. There is not much left to desire once you have one of these. At least for me, there isn’t.
Image: The Watch Club
Final thoughts on our list of favorite vintage Rolex Submariner models
There you have it—our list of five favorite classic Rolex Submariner references. Let us know in the comments section which one you would go for. Or maybe we have missed an important reference. We would love to find out, and we will see you next week for another installment in this series.
