Going Hands-On With The Incredibly Versatile Micromilspec Worldtimer

In a world with a seemingly ever-increasing number of luxury watch brands, Micromilspec focuses on developing the best tool watches possible. Professionals actively use these watches in the field, so reliability and sturdiness are critical factors in the success of Micromilspec’s timepieces. The Norwegian brand has an impressive list of professional clients, from specialist army units to air forces and fire brigades. The brand’s latest creation is the Micromilspec Worldtimer. This modern pilot’s watch will land on the wrists of air force professionals and a small group of private customers. It’s time to learn more about it.

One of my favorite hands-on experiences of last year was spending time with the Micromilspec Milgraph. Ask me what watch I would take as a competent daily wearer in the most challenging conditions, and my answer would be the Milgraph every time. It simply is that good. With the new Worldtimer, Micromilspec takes a next step in creating the ultimate pilot’s watch. The watch has similar functions to the Milgraph but is somewhat different in design. Could this new Worldtimer be even better? A hands-on experience would give me a definitive answer.

The story of the Micromilspec Worldtimer

At first glance, the Worldtimer immediately looks like a Micromilspec watch. The modern, angular case design has become a brand staple that is instantly recognizable. Not only does it look great, but it’s also a well-considered and ergonomic design. As a result, the watch wears very well despite its substantial size. The brand used the same case for the Worldtimer as for the Milgraph, so I knew this would be a great watch to wear. But we’ll get to that in a second.

Let’s kick things off with some specs. The Worldtimer features a 42mm Grade 5 titanium case with a 15mm thickness, a 50.3mm lug-to-lug, and a 200m depth rating. As you would think from reading the specs, this is a big watch. Then again, isn’t that what you would want a sturdy, military-focused piece to be?

If there is something to optimize, it would be the thickness. That would improve the wearability and make this a knockout. Then again, knowing how meticulous the folks at Micromilspec are, I know they have looked into making the watch as wearable as possible.

Classic design cues with a modern execution

Despite the substantial size, the Micromilspec Worldtimer doesn’t feel unwieldy or chunky thanks to its titanium construction. A significant difference compared to the Milgraph is the finishing of the case. Whereas the Milgraph has a fully matte microblasted case, the Worldtimer adds polished bevels and a polished bezel and crown for extra visual brilliance. The bidirectional bezel features a matte black sandblasted ceramic insert with 24 cities representing different time zones. Thanks to a polished top surface, the city names contrast nicely with the matte background, making them easier to read.

On the right side of the case, you will find the screw-down crown flanked by chamfered crown guards. The nicely integrated chronograph pushers protrude slightly, but this doesn’t drastically disrupt the flowing lines of the case side. The watch also features a dial that links directly to one of Micromilspec’s first releases.

One of the brand’s early commissions was a watch built for Royal Norwegian Air Force pilots working in different time zones. The dial design for the Worldtimer returns to those origins. As you can see, it is much more conventional than the Milgraph’s more abstract and minimal dial design. As a result, the Worldtimer’s dial design will appeal more to fans of classic pilot’s watches.

Great readability and maximum contrast

Micromilspec offers the new Worldtimer with a white or black dial, each with a matching or contrasting rubber strap. For this hands-on review, we had the black-dial variant with the matching strap. Its matte dial features a grainy texture with applied indexes filled with white Super-LumiNova X1. The hour markers are part of the open minute track, which encircles the Arabic numerals that also mark the hours. These numerals are pivotal in giving the dial a more conventional look. Located on the rehaut is the 24-hour GMT scale for showing the time in another time zone.

At 3 o’clock, you will find a large aperture that shows three dates and a large triangular pointer indicating the current one. On the opposite end, at 9 o’clock, you will find the branding, as we have come to know from Micromilspec. Lastly, the recessed sub-dials for the chronograph are located at 6 and 12 o’clock.

Four centrally mounted black hands hover over the dial. The skeletonized hands for the hours and minutes are filled with white lume, whereas the central chronograph hand and the arrow-shaped GMT hand feature white luminous tips.

Powered by La Joux-Perret’s L122 caliber

Hidden behind the titanium case back featuring the Micromilspec logo is the La Joux-Perret L122 movement that powers the Worldtimer. The automatic chronograph GMT caliber operates at 28,800vph, has 26 jewels, and offers 60 hours of power reserve. The caliber is a caller-style GMT movement, meaning that if you unscrew the crown and pull it out to the first position, it will allow you to set/adjust the date and the 24-hour GMT hand. If you pull out the crown to the second position, you can adjust the time.

Wearing the Micromilspec Worldtimer

Once you have set the time and date at home and the time in another time zone, the watch lands solidly on your wrist. As mentioned, the Micromilspec Worldtimer watch is not too heavy, but it does feel sturdy and substantial. Combined with its dimensions, it’s a watch that makes its presence known. The Worltimer doesn’t slip under your cuff easily, nor should it have to. It’s a military-inspired pilot’s watch, so it’s there to assist professional pilots during military missions or accompany a limited number of private clients on their wild adventures.

The Worldtimer’s build quality is brilliant, and this is evident in every detail, from the way the watch sits on the wrist to the operation of the screw-down crown and the starting, stopping, and resetting of the chronograph function.

I love the slight yet solid clicks that the pushers make when using the chronograph. They inspire confidence about the watch’s build quality. Another standout feature is the textured rubber strap with its titanium buckle. It feels sturdy but is flexible enough to wrap itself easily around the wrist.

Final thoughts on the Micromilspec Worldtimer

I wore the Micromilspec Worldtimer for a few days and was quickly reminded of what makes the Norwegian brand’s watches so good. They are developed to serve a purpose and swiftly provide the wearer with all the necessary information. The Worldtimer does this better than the Milgraph because it is less minimalist and abstract. The more conventional approach to its dial design makes this Worldtimer a perfect pilot’s watch with a chronograph and GMT function.

The watch is incredibly easy to wear, and I was quickly reminded why I love Micromilspec so much. The modern case design, the quality feel of all the different parts, and the great eye for detail make these some of the best tool watches. The new Worldtimer is further proof of that, and I loved my time with the watch. However, despite the Worldtimer being more legible than the quirky destro Milgraph, the latter remains my favorite. There is an abstract quality to that watch that I adore, which is why I will one day pull the trigger on the Milgraph.

The Worldtimer is available to a select number of fans

Despite my preference for the Milgraph, the Micromilspec Worldtimer is the better watch if you want a more conventional pilot’s chronograph with a GMT function. It is a brilliantly designed, engineered, and executed watch that shows why Micromilspec is such a special brand. The new Worldtimer is part of the Annual collection, which means that the brand will produce only 75 pieces annually. These will be made available to a select number of customers. You can order yours now at €3,500 through the brand’s official website. Considering what you get for the money, I think this new Micromilspec is hard to beat.