Hands-On With The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 — Two-Tone For Those Who Don’t Like Two-Tone

A little less than a month ago, we saw the introduction of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925. The watch commemorates 100 years of Longines dual-time watches in a rather bold fashion. Its rose-gold-capped bezel and matching gold dial details set it apart from any other Spirit Zulu Time. I was immediately intrigued by this original take and knew I had to get my hands on one.

This hands-on review is a follow-up to Lex’s earlier introduction article. I will not repeat everything he so capably described, so for the full Longines Zulu Spirit 1925 experience, you may want to start with his article and then come back here.

The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

I will, however, start with a very brief recap for those of you who are in a hurry today. Longines launched its first dual-time watch in 1925. This rather special little number featured a square dial adorned with the maritime Zulu flag and two sets of hands. “Zulu” refers to the letter Z in the NATO phonetic alphabet, which refers to the zero meridian in Greenwich, England. This is universal time, UTC+0, or Greenwich Mean Time.

1925 Longines Zulu Time

Longines gave its original 1925 Zulu Time a successor in the Spirit Zulu Time in 2022. Today’s celebratory new version is based on that modern template. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 comes in a 39 × 46.8 × 13.5mm stainless steel case. Unlike its sibling models, it doesn’t merely have a sapphire crystal up top; it also has a second one in the case back, providing a view of the movement inside. Longines rates the watch’s water resistance at 100 meters.

Inside lies the automatic Longines caliber L844.4 (base ETA A31.L411), an automatic movement also offering manual winding and hacking seconds. It ticks at 25,200vph and has a 72-hour power reserve. Last but not least, the movement is a COSC-certified chronometer.

A gold-capped bezel

The standout feature of the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 is surely its rose-gold-capped bezel. The normal glossy ceramic insert makes way for this brushed metal alternative. I should probably explain the term “gold capping,” as it is markedly different from gold plating.

You can consider gold capping like wrapping something in a layer of gold. In contrast to gold plating, which is usually a mere 0.5–5 microns thick, the gold layer on the Zulu Time 1925 measures an ample 200 microns in thickness. While this is still far from solid gold, it has a major benefit over plating in that it doesn’t wear off nearly as easily. You would have to grind the entire shape out of the inlay before going through the gold. In short, with normal use, it will remain nice and golden forever.

Longines etches the 24-hour markings on the bezel. Crucially, the brand doesn’t fill the markings with lacquer or lume, resulting in a soft ton-sur-ton aesthetic that is very easy on the eye.

First impressions

Interestingly, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 looked exactly as it did in the press images when I opened the box. The rose gold appears more coppery than gold, making it less flashy than most two-tone watches. It does not come across as crass or blingy by any means.

This brings me to the title of this article. I must admit that I am not generally a fan of two-tone watches. There are great exceptions, but I often find bimetal configurations a bit too blingy and old-fashioned. The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925, however, does not look and feel like a traditional two-tone watch. It helps that Longines fashions the bracelet out of steel only, without any rose gold details. However, the tone of the rose gold pushes it even further away from a typical two-tone watch.

Yes, the Zulu Time 1925 looks retro. Yes, the gold adds a warm contrast to the otherwise cool steel. But no, it doesn’t exude any of the 1980s-investment-banker vibes you might get from certain two-tone alternatives. This is a two-tone watch for those who don’t like two-tone watches.

Wearing the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925

I am a big fan of the 39mm Longines Spirit. Although it could do with a millimeter or two shaved off the thickness, it wears very well. I prefer it over the 42mm model, even though I can pull off either just fine. The smaller model looks and feels a little more refined, so I appreciate that Longines picked it for this special version.

On the wrist, this feels like a sporty yet versatile watch. It neatly combines tool-watch vibes with more jewelry-esque stylings. I find this is the case with any Longines Spirit, but the gold here only emphasizes this characteristic. Crucially, the presence of gold doesn’t compromise its versatility. I found the watch to blend with any of my outfits, both purely casual and more formal.

All in all, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925 positively surprised me. It looks handsome, feels solid, and has the segment-leading finishing that helps make any Spirit so good. So, if you want a two-tone watch but don’t like two-tone watches much, give this a try. You just might end up loving it. You will have to part ways with €4,500 / US$4,350 / £3,750, though.

What do you think of the new Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925? Let us know in the comments section below!