Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm
Earlier this year, Formex surprised us with the skeletonized Formex Essence Ceramica. It showcased just how far the brand could push modern materials and finishing at an accessible price point. The sleek, all-ceramic case and bracelet showcased Formex’s technical prowess, while the skeletonized dial guaranteed a big visual statement.
Now Formex returns with a solid-dial version of the Essence Ceramica. It comes in four striking colors and shares the same 41mm case. In other news, Formex teamed up with Soprod to develop a proprietary version of the P092 movement. This caliber debuts in today’s new model. I got the chance to spend some time with this new watch; let’s see how we fared!
The Formex Essence Ceramica
Formex turns 25 this year, and the anniversary feels like the right moment to expand on its boldest concept yet. The first ceramic Essence caught us by surprise when it launched in March this year. It was a clear sign of intent from a brand known for pushing materials and usability, in collaboration with sister companies Dexel and Cadranor.
Ceramic often feels overly flashy, but Formex applies alternating finishing to break that effect. This level of ceramic finishing is otherwise unheard of in this price segment. Formex uses ceramic for its scratch-resistant and hypoallergenic properties. Just as importantly, the material offers subtle but significant light play, especially with the brushed and polished surfaces found here.
Formex also continues to innovate. The brand’s patented clasp with tool-free micro-adjustment and quick-release system remains. Such a clasp is a rarity among ceramic watches. The cushioned, spring-loaded case is also lifted from the steel Essence models. Today, we see a second generation of Ceramica with solid dials and a new movement.
Case and bracelet
The case has a 41mm diameter and an 11.2mm profile, making the Essence Ceramica fairly slim for a ceramic sports watch. Formex rates its water resistance at 100 meters, ample for everyday security. The shape sticks to the familiar Essence design language, with angular lugs and aggressive lines.
The bracelet feels rock solid. It has ceramic links, steel inserts for durability, and a push-button-operated micro-adjustment system. It also allows for tool-free strap changes, meaning owners can easily swap to leather or rubber.
I can only applaud Formex and Dexel for their work here. I have the privilege of handling ceramic watches in all price segments, and this can hold its own with all of them, even at 10 times the price. The tolerances, surfaces, and general feel are all absolutely top-notch.
New dials for the Formex Essence Ceramica COSC
Formex offers four versions — Blue, Arctic White, Dégradé, and Gamaret. Each presents a thoroughly different vibe. The Arctic White is crisp and modern, the Blue is versatile and classical, the Dégradé adds depth with fading tones, and the Gamaret carries a rich burgundy hue. Together, they give enthusiasts plenty of choice. The one I got to try is the Dégradé.
The dials are not stamped but milled by CNC machines, resulting in sharper horizontal grooves. This is yet another feature you would associate with much more costly watches. The resulting dials look truly premium, amplified by the neat applied indexes and logo, as well as the sloped date window at 6 o’clock.
My dial favorite out of the bunch would be the white one for its hard contrast against the black ceramic. It suits the modern, sporty vibe incredibly well.
The proprietary Soprod movement
Ticking inside is a customized Soprod Newton P092 developed in collaboration with Formex. The two companies have worked on it for the past three years. Soprod now sits alongside Sellita as one of Formex’s preferred movement suppliers. Each movement passes the rigorous Chronofiable test, simulating years of use in a compressed timeframe.
On top of that, this version of the Newton P092 comes with COSC certification. It ticks at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers 44 hours of power reserve.
Through the case back’s sapphire window, you’ll see the neat finishing. The movement displays a black gold galvanic treatment, bridges with a grainé texture, thermally blued screws, and a skeletonized rotor with a beautiful sunburst finish. The edges of each bridge are brushed as well, providing a slight contrast to the matte inner surfaces. The result suits Formex’s technical and modern aesthetic to a tee.
What I think of the Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC
The Formex Essence Ceramica wears like any other 41mm Essence. That is to say that it sits neatly within the confines of my 18cm wrist. The relatively short 46.2mm lug-to-lug, 11.2mm thickness, and suspended case make it very comfortable to wear.
The one thing that would keep me from adding one to my collection is the styling. Formex stands for modern, sporty, technical designs. I find it hard to put my finger on, but I guess it is a tad too technical for me. That said, this is purely subjective. The brand confidently and clearly builds watches exclusively in this style. In that sense, there’s no mistaking it for anything else.
I am, once more, deeply impressed by the build quality and finishing. Formex, Dexel, and Cadranor make a formidable team. It is particularly admirable that they keep pushing the envelope when no one would blame them for resting on their laurels at this point. I have also put my money where my mouth is, teaming up with Cadranor and Dexel for my future projects. I reckon I cannot give a much stronger recommendation than that.
Pricing and availability
The new Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm retails for €3,490 / US$3,690 / £2,990, including taxes, tariffs (where applicable), duties, and shipping. I was already impressed by the value offered by the earlier skeletonized version. This one, however, shaves off another €960 / US$1,070 / £760, resulting in an extremely competitive package. Pre-orders open on September 25th, with deliveries expected by late October 2025.
Formex continues to position itself as a brand for collectors who value both engineering and accessibility. While ceramic has long been the domain of luxury giants, the Essence Ceramica shows it can be done at more attainable prices without any real compromise. At this price and spec level, very few competitors exist.
What do you think of the new Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm? Let us know in the comments below!