Hands-On With The Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu And The Arceau Rocabar De Rire

When Hermès introduced the Cut at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024, we said it arrived fashionably late to the integrated-bracelet party. However, the quirky 36mm pebble-like cushion case, in combination with the playful numerals, brought something exciting to the popular and overcrowded genre. At Watches and Wonders this year, the Parisian maison didn’t introduce any completely new models, just variations on existing ones, including the Cut Le Temps Suspendu in a 39mm rose gold case. At first, it felt more like a beautiful party-trick piece. However, the new size also shows the potential for future variations of the Cut.

The 36mm Hermès Cut debuted in four variations — two in steel, with or without a diamond-set bezel, and two in steel and rose gold, one of which also had a diamond-set bezel. That means there was only one plain stainless steel model without any frills. This suggested that the Cut was initially more targeted toward a female audience. I like that all-steel version a lot, though, and think it works equally well on a man’s wrist as it does on a woman’s. However, what I didn’t know was that Hermès already had a 39mm version in the works. Let’s go hands-on to see what it’s like.

The 39mm Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu

The Cut has a fairly distinct case design. It’s basically a round, pebble-shaped case from which Hermès cut away some material on the left, right, top, and bottom. These cuts make it feel fresh, and the brushed and polished surfaces accentuate the watch’s interesting and daring design. On top of the pebble sits a bold brushed-and-polished bezel. This results in a stepped design and makes the dial smaller than on most other 36mm watches. Together with the integrated bracelet, this makes the Hermès Cut wear slightly smaller than its dimensions would suggest.

The same is true for the 39mm Cut Le Temps Suspendu. I’d say it wears more like a 36–37mm watch. Sure, the 5N rose gold case and bigger size mean that it’s heavier than the 36mm version in steel, but it still wears great on my 17cm (6.7″) wrist. The case with integrated lugs has a 45mm span from tip to tip and an 11.8mm total thickness. That’s almost two millimeters thicker than the 36mm Cut, which is probably because of the Le Temps Suspendu module on top of the movement. I’ll come back to that complication in just a minute.

But first, I’d like to talk about how comfortable this watch feels on the wrist. I also think it looks great and different from anything else on the market. The stepped pebble-like case sits very ergonomically on my 17cm wrist. I expected it to be too big, but I might even prefer the 39mm case over its 36mm counterparts. All right, back to that complication.

Don’t measure time; tame it

According to Hermès, watches are not tools with which to measure time; instead, they are companions for living. In that sense, time shouldn’t be something to feel pressured by. Rather, it’s something you should enjoy. With its Le Temps Suspendu complication, which Hermès introduced in 2011, the Cut literally puts the wearer in charge of time. With a push of the button at 8 o’clock, you can put the hour and minute hands in a time-out position. It’s as if time stands still for a moment. However, the sub-seconds hand keeps running, albeit backwards, and it makes a full circle in 24 seconds. That way, you won’t feel rushed by it, but you’ll still know that the movement inside is running and that, with another push of the button, the hour and minute hands will return to their correct positions.

The Hermès Cut Le Temps is powered by the H1912 automatic movement made by Vaucher. It runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and holds a 45-hour power reserve. Its perlage-laden mainplate, satin-brushed bridges and oscillating weight, and “H” pattern are visible through the case back’s sapphire display.

The Le Temps Suspendu complication is very original, and the idea of taming time instead of chasing it feels very relevant in an age when rushing feels like the status quo. For some, it might be a bit much, especially with the “Le temps suspendu” text on the dial. I like it, though, and I think it suits Hermès’s mysterious air. What is a bit much for me, though, is the grainy red dial in combination with that rose gold case.

Beautiful in rose gold, but imagine this in steel…

Don’t get me wrong; the deep red dial with a grainy and sunburst finish looks luxurious with the rose gold case. This case’s circular-brushed finish also accentuates the Cut’s sexy lines, just like the coffee-bean-shaped links in the bracelet. Still, I’m not sure whether this color combination would be my first choice. Of course, you can also opt for the opaline silver dial. But the fact of the matter is that, on the bracelet, the Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu is still a €43,000 watch. If you can easily miss that kind of money, the Cut Le Temps Suspendu is a great watch to add to your collection. For me, unfortunately, that’s not an amount I think I’ll ever spend on a single watch.

The 36mm Hermès Cut in stainless steel

The all-steel 36mm Cut on the bracelet, though, sells for a much more accessible €5,900. For that price, you still get the irresistible, in-house produced, pebble-like cushion-shaped case, great finishing, Vaucher movement, and the ability to swap the H-link bracelet — with a proprietary quick-release system — out for one of the colorful rubber straps.

Some brands, like Longines, ask the same price for a watch in different sizes. Imagine if Hermès were to do the same for a 39mm time-only Cut in stainless steel. Without the Le Temps Suspendu complication, the case could even be a little slimmer and get closer to the 10mm thickness of the 36mm version. The result would be a proper and very elegant stainless steel integrated-bracelet sports watch — remember, the Cut is water resistant to 100 meters.

A well-deserved GPHG nomination

I’m sorry; I got a little carried away there. Of course, the Hermès Cut Le Temps Suspendu is already a very elegant sports watch. On top of that, it comes with a Hermès-exclusive complication. That’s also why it’s nominated for a GPHG award in, funnily enough, the Ladies’ Complication category. But I guess that shows the Cut’s versatile character. In 2011, the year Hermès introduced its suspended time complication, the brand already won a GPHG award in the Men’s category for the 43mm Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Let’s see whether the Cut can achieve the same this year in the Ladies’ Complication category.

An encore with the Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire

Another Hermès watch that has been nominated for a GPHG award is the Arceau Rocabar de Rire. The 41mm Arceau in either white or rose gold is inspired by Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s Rocabar de Rire scarf. Introduced in 2023, this design features a cheeky brown horse made of cashmere and silk, looking back over its shoulder with its tongue out. The watch is nominated in the Artistic Crafts category because of its meticulous blend of engraving, miniature painting, and horse-hair marquetry. The result is a dial with a lot of depth and great color contrast. But, above all, this is a dial that makes you smile.

The real magic lies in the animation. Pressing the button at 9 o’clock makes the horse playfully stick its tongue out as many times as you please. It’s a charming gesture that pokes fun at an industry often guilty of taking itself too seriously. Available with a blue or green dial, each paired with a matching alligator strap, the watch houses the automatic H1837 movement, also found in the Arceau Le Temps Suspendu. Limited to just 12 pieces, the Arceau Rocabar de Rire is priced at €163,000 in rose gold and €168,000 in white gold — a joyful reminder that haute horlogerie can still laugh.

What do you think about these Hermès Cut and Arceau models? Do you think they deserve to win the GPHG awards in their respective categories? Let me know in the comments below.