Hands-On With The Remarkable Cyrus Klepcys GMT Palm Green And Ocean Blue
I know that spec sheets are important to many of us watch fans, but it’s first impressions that are lasting. While most brands copy designs that have their roots in the past, only a handful of brands take a different route. Cyrus Genève is one of those brands. I had a chance to go hands-on with the two new Cyrus Klepcys GMT models that the brand presented at Watches and Wonders this year. To my surprise, the modern timepieces unveil many more conventional traits than you would initially expect. It made the wearing experience one of the most surprising of this year.
Straight out of the box, the Cyrus Klepcys GMT models look modern, almost futuristic. I realized that I have recently focused strongly on retro-inspired timepieces, partly because that is what many watch brands feed us. But it’s just as much because I have developed a strong preference for vintage storytellers. However, when I let the design of the Klepcys GMTs sink in, I realized that I had neglected the modern side of watch design that I love so much. So I was happy to take the new GMTs from the Genevan brand for a spin.
The history of the Cyrus Klepcys GMT
In 2021, Dave wrote a review of the Klepcys GMT Retrograde, the predecessor of these two new models. That was my first introduction to the brand. The first thing that stood out was the futuristic open-worked dial design. It stands out immediately. As Dave already mentioned, the design is not for everyone. It pushes the limits of conventional design. However, with the chance to review the new models, I found out that there are indeed many familiar design traits rooted in the past.
There are some welcome changes compared to the model Dave reviewed in 2021. First, both watches have a bracelet that significantly changes the overall aesthetic. Second, the color scheme is inverted for an inherently different look. Whereas the previous version had a bright blue 24-hour retrograde scale, the new watches have an open-worked upper bridge executed in either blue or green.
The Klepcys GMT has an impressive set of specs
Both watches feature a 42mm cushion-shaped Grade 5 titanium case that is 13.9mm thick and water-resistant to 100 meters. When looking at the shape, the famous Heuer Monza immediately comes to mind. It’s one of those hints at a more traditional design that I mentioned earlier. The case has a slightly curved profile and features a crown on both sides. The first, at 3 o’clock, lets you wind the watch and set the time. The crown at 9 o’clock is a pusher that lets you set the local time independently in one-hour increments. Therefore, this watch is a flyer GMT.
The case sides are interesting in both their design and combination of finishes. As you can see, much of the flanks’ surfaces have been milled out and given a matte bead-blasted finish inside. Surrounding those are edges with a deep brushed finish that sharply transitions into a high-polished bevel on each lug. It makes this a modern cushion-shaped case that I greatly appreciate for all its intricacies in both design and finishes. Additionally, the Grade 5 titanium bracelet is another eyecatcher. The design features brushed H-links with polished hexagonal center links and fits the overall style well. On top of that, it is really well made and super comfortable once on the wrist.
The dial is full of intricate details
As mentioned, both watches feature an open-worked upper bridge treated with ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition) to achieve the green and blue hues. They set the tone for the overall presence. Through the bridge, you can catch glimpses of the caliber CYR708 that master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon created in action.
Placed on top of the bridge is a sapphire disc that features the printed Cyrus logo and Arabic numerals. It gives the effect of the markers floating above the movement. Moving inward, we see a gray lacquered ring featuring luminescent Arabic numerals and dots, forming the 24-hour retrograde scale. This ring is placed on top of the sapphire disc, and a centrally mounted white GMT hand points to it, indicating the home time.
The dial of the Klepcys GMT is easy to navigate
The small sub-dial at 6 o’clock features a helix-shaped hand that indicates the running seconds with its luminescent point. It hovers above a black PVD disc that features a triangle motif. Dave mentioned that he would have preferred a conventional seconds hand, and I agree. Plenty is going on on the dial side, and a more normal shape would have fit in more naturally.
Lastly, the rhodium-plated, luminescent, and open-worked hour and minute hands hover above all the aforementioned elements. It’s a detail that I didn’t want to leave unmentioned. I love this handset as the modern shape works well with this design.
The in-house caliber CYR708
Turn the watch around, and you’ll see the rotor of the in-house-created caliber CYR708. As mentioned, it’s the brainchild of Jean-François Mojon. This 41-jewel automatic GMT movement consists of 278 parts. It operates at a 28,800vph frequency and has a 55-hour power reserve.
The oscillating weight features the Cyrus logo and motto and is created with an ALD coating in the same color as the upper bridge. The movement features a Swiss lever escapement and a variable-inertia balance wheel. It is also nicely finished and bears the palm-tree motif used for the upper bridge on the front.
Wearing the Cyrus Klepcys GMT
As mentioned, I had to get used to the modern styling of these watches, but wearing them changed everything. These watches are super comfortable thanks to their curved case profile and titanium bracelet. The size is also very manageable on my 19cm (7.5″) wrist, but I can see that this is not a watch for the small-wristed among us. Additionally, I was completely in awe of how much these two watches visually pop when worn. The design details, the combination of finishes, and the colors work spectacularly well together.
This made wearing both Klepcys GMT models for a couple of days an absolute joy. Admittedly, it takes a little time to get used to the two crowns. They create a visual balance, but they are also very noticeable. After some time, however, they blend into the overall design. As for the question of which of the two is my favorite, that is hard to answer. The Ocean Blue version pops more. But every time I returned to the Palm Green version, I was in awe of the beautiful shade of green that Cyrus used for the bridge. It makes it hard to choose a favorite as both have plenty of pizzazz.
Final thoughts on the Cyrus Klepcys GMT watches
Overall, I was impressed by these two new Cyrus Klepcys GMT models. Sure, there are design details that I would like to have seen executed differently, such as the small seconds hand. Overall, though, these pieces are super impressive. You can debate the style, of course, but these watches are not for a wide audience but, rather, for true fans. They combine the impressive watchmaking skills of Jean-François Mojon with modern designs that stand out for a select group of enthusiasts.
The brand will produce only 38 individually numbered pieces of both models. You can choose a gray Cordura fabric strap with contrasting blue or green stitching for €27,600. If you prefer either of the two watches on the bracelet, the price is €29,600. That is a lot of money. What you get in return, however, is very special. In the end, my experience with the watches was surprisingly brilliant. These Cyrus Klepcys GMT models are distinctive in more ways than one. The design turns out to be only one part of a brilliantly made pair of watches.
For more information, visit the official Cyrus website. In the comments section, let us know which of the two is your favorite.