Introducing: The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation Series
Nomos has done it again! With the new Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation series, the German brand shows us once more that colors can have a transformative effect. This goes beyond the simple change of the look of a watch, though. The new limited-edition Navigation Series perfectly displays how Nomos utilizes uncommon colors in remarkably smart ways to define itself as a brand. Especially in a Bauhaus-inspired universe, it is a powerful way to move forward without losing what has always made Nomos stand out. Let’s take a look at the new trio of watches.
Not too long ago, I wrote a review about the Traska Venturer GMT and mentioned the effects of dial colors on your mood and preferences. I quoted Russian-French artist Wassily Kandinsky, who once said, “Color is a power which directly influences the soul.” It’s a quote that perfectly captures the personal connection to dial colors beyond the reflection of your individual preferences. However, colors are not just tools to influence the wearer. They can also display how the brand grows and transforms into the future. Another art-related quote that reflects that transformation perfectly is, “The chief function of color should be to serve expression,” as stated by world-famous French artist Henri Mattise. His words capture how Nomos has found a path into the future with color as the guide. Let me try to explain…
The greater context of using different colors
Taking a very rational approach to dial colors, it seems they are to please the eyes of the wearer. Technically, that is true, of course. But almost 15 years of working in design have taught me that not every brand feels comfortable using just any color that sticks with wearers, especially when it comes down to defining a full palette. Specific colors, then, are just as much an expression of the brand as the person who wears the watch.
For years, we have noticed the various trendy colors within the world of watches. From green to ice-blue and then to brown dials (which have become popular recently), colors are always a topic of discussion. Some brands, however, choose a different path. Instead of joining the pack with a couleur du jour, such brands have actively defined palettes we have never seen before. And those palettes are not just limited to dials.
A great example is Parmigiani Fleurier’s Toric line. The watches have a beautiful overall aesthetic, but the soft dial and strap colors play a huge part, creating a distinct vibe that makes the Toric even more interesting. I would even say that the colors define the series and are a big part of why people love the watches so much.
Nomos has a magical way with colors
From Parmigiani Fleurier to Nomos Glashütte is a small step when it comes to being inventive with hues, tones, and shades. In my review of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer models released during Watches and Wonders, I explained my love for Nomos’s use of uncommon dial colors. Over the past few years, the brand has shown us that the Bauhaus-inspired minimalism works very well with a wide chromatic range. In the review of the previous models, I explained that we have seen quite a few great examples of Nomos’s excellent use of colors.
Without revisiting all the watches, I feel I should highlight a few examples of the magic of using uncommon single colors and combinations to stand out. A great example is the Club Sport 39 models, with their dark brown tabac, lighter brown ember, and gray smoke dials. They make for a wonderful trio of daily wearers.
Additionally, the 34mm models from the same series show an equal original use of colors with purple and gold sunburst dials. In particular, the purple-dial model immediately stands out, and it impressed me greatly when we had it in for review.
More colorful greatness from Nomos Glashütte
It gets even better with the four Tetra models from 2023. These watches featured dials with stylish, unusual color combinations accompanied by hard-to-pronounce German names — Die Unerreichbare, Die Wildentschlossene, Die Fuchsteufelswilde, and Die Kapriziöse. I still feel the purple-dial Die Fuchsteufelswilde, or “The Mad As Hell one,” as Nacho translated it, has my name all over it. I will need to add that to my collection at some point.
Lastly, the 31 bonkers versions of the Tangente 38 Datum were an even greater tour de force in color usage. They not only offered a combination for everyone but also displayed how important colors are for the German brand in finding ways to combine its signature Bauhaus style with something new and exciting that will keep enthusiasts interested.
The story of the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Series
This brings us to the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer series. As you likely know, Nomos introduced two regular-production models with blue and silver sunburst dials. As I explained in this article, I understand the choice to offer two classic dial colors. There is always a market for those. Honestly, though, the buzz for the new Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer series wasn’t about those two models. The six limited-edition dial colors were the true stars of the show.
That’s why I suggested that Nomos either create more limited editions with similar dials or acknowledge the success of the LEs and introduce more dials that embrace the brand’s talent for picking great colors as part of the regular collection. That brings us to the new Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation series. With the latest series of three limited editions, Nomos throws us another curveball.
What sets the Night Navigation series apart
The three new Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation models all feature a galvanized black dial with a sunburst finish. That sounds like a logical addition to the regular collection, but there is something different about this trio of limited editions. The black dials are contrasted by brightly colored details that bring them to life most spectacularly.
The Trace model features turquoise indications and Super-LumiNova that contrast brightly against the black background. Then, the Vector model combines the black dial with olive and light yellow indications and matching Super-LumiNova. Lastly, the Grid model has orange and yellow indications and uses orange Super-LumiNova for the dial and hands.
Nomos explains that the dials were inspired by traveling at night. The colors refer to navigational instruments in a cockpit and a nighttime view of a major city from above. It’s a fitting description of the dials that creates some context. But just as with the previous LE dials inspired by natural landscapes, the colors’ impact is the key to the magic. I also needed some time to let the looks of the three models sink in. Usually, with Nomos, that is a good thing.
The ever-important details
The previous limited-edition models used color combinations that initially seemed strange. Compared to those earlier LEs, this series of black sunburst dials with contrasting details is pretty easy to digest. But as soon as you zoom in, you will find details that make this Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer series such a great canvas for color experimentation. The Nomos designers use the sub-dial at 3 o’clock, the peripheral ring with city codes, and the hour markers to bring the dials to life.
Compared to the previous LE models, I find these new dials easier to get used to. The 24-hour sub-dials do not show any oddball color combos. However, the design team’s combination of colors and tones brings plenty of intricate details to make these dials pop. Take the Grid model, for instance.
The primary colors are black, orange, and light yellow. Look a bit closer, though, and you will find that the hand for the 24-hour sub-dial is a darker orange. Additionally, the center of the same sub-dial features a shade of brown for the daytime hours. To add even more detail, the ring around the sub-dial uses two shades of gray. Lastly, the recessed city ring with city codes for 24 time zones on the perimeter is a darker shade of brown. The result is a dial that looks simpler than it actually is.
The big trick is that all the different colors and shades seem to work naturally together, making the aesthetic easier on the eye than the previous models. But that is not where it ends. Just look at the subtle lighter shading for the hour markers. There are so many small details that show how well considered the dials are.
Nice variations of the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
So, why did these watches need more time to sink in? First, the turquoise Trace model is loud and somewhat unusual. The combination of black and shades of turquoise and blue is quite uncommon. It’s also the model Nomos dedicated a little more attention to in its press materials. This shows that the brand understands that it’s a standout color combination that will make people who prefer a more traditional dial uncomfortable. But the Vector green and Grid orange models will cover you for less extravagant options.
But what intrigued me are the details. The intricate use of connected colors and shades creates a series that looks homogenous. It’s only when you zoom in that you see the clever details. They show that Nomos is truly on top of its game and uses color to enrich its signature style. The three watches look different from the regular models, but the brand chose a different path from the previous six limited editions. This colorful creativity brings a new relevance to the latest trio of watches.
Similar specs and technical details as before
Aside from the conceptual aesthetic, the watches offer the same specs and details as the previous models. That means you get the same 40mm stainless steel case with a 9.9mm thickness, a 48mm lug-to-lug, and a 100m water resistance rating. The predominantly polished case also matches the three-row bracelet of the previous models. This bracelet has polished center links, brushed outer links, and a folding clasp with a push-button release. The case’s excellent proportions and the comfortable bracelet make for a great daily wearer.
The watches are also powered by the brand’s in-house Nomos DUW 3202 caliber. This automatic movement operates at 21,600vph, has 37 jewels, and offers a 42-hour power reserve. The caliber was fully designed, developed, manufactured, and assembled at the brand’s manufacturing plant in Glashütte, Germany. Thanks to the sapphire crystal in the case back, you’ll get a good view of the skeletonized rotor, blued screws, Glashütte stripes, and perlage finishing.
A movement that adds to the wearing experience
Nomos developed the DUW 3202 specifically for this series of watches, and it helps make them so enjoyable. As I explained in the review of the previous models, clicking the pusher at 2 o’clock is such a satisfying feeling. One click rotates the peripheral ring to the next time zone, but returning to the original time zone offers the satisfaction of clicking 24 times in total. It is an addictive feeling, and you’ll click the pusher more often than you travel.
This is part of what makes the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer such a joy to wear. These watches are easy to love thanks to spot-on proportions, attractive looks, and a fun caliber with useful complications.
Final thoughts on the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Night Navigation series
While the conceptual story of the Night Navigation series is simple, the execution is far from it. I love these three new watches because they are original and inherently different from the previous versions. Additionally, they prove that Nomos is successfully using color to move into the future. Besides the typical Bauhaus style, Nomos has made the original use of color another one of its selling points. By doing so, the brand has become one of the frontrunners in the industry, using and exploring new and exciting colorways and concepts.
As a result, I can’t wait to see what is next for Nomos. As you might have guessed (my apologies for rambling on for so long about the significance of colors), I adore these three new limited editions. They show the great creative efforts from the Nomos design team that allow the brand to stand out. They also make me curious about how successful the regular models will be versus the two series of limited editions.
Furthermore, I am intrigued to find out whether that changes how the brand moves forward with the different series in its catalog, particularly the Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer series. I do not doubt that all 175 pieces of each color of the Night Navigation series will sell out in a flash. With a €3,940 price, these are among the best travel watches under €5,000. If the brand continues to unveil more creative new versions, it will be hard to resist adding one to my collection. Then again, I will end up doing that with a big smile.
