Introducing: The Trilobe Trente-Deux Collection
Trilobe is a brand we’ve featured on Fratello before, and I was fortunate to go hands-on with the collection last April at Watches and Wonders. The Parisian brand specializes in watches with a distinctive time-telling display. A series of rotating discs shows hours, minutes, and seconds. It’s a wonderfully straightforward concept that now achieves a more mainstream look with a new model. Plus, the Trente-Deux debuts Trilobe’s first in-house movement.
As watch fans, we’re used to seeing watches with unorthodox time displays. Most are interesting, but they often feel gimmicky. Trilobe, on the other hand, has created an off-center series of rotating discs that makes sense once explained. A popular early model, the Une Folle Journée, was particularly arresting with its tall, highly domed crystal and open-worked dial. As much as I liked it, though, the watch felt like a special-occasion piece. Today, with the introduction of the new Trente-Deux, Trilobe has evolved the concept with an in-house movement and a more wearable integrated-bracelet design.
The Trilobe Trente-Deux
The new Trilobe comes as a 316L stainless steel watch with a matching steel integrated bracelet. It also boasts dimensions that should please a majority of potential owners. The 39.5mm case is given a 46.18mm lug-to-lug and a nice 10.15mm profile. With a 50m water resistance rating, this different take on the dressy sports watch is ready for nearly all of life’s typical situations.
While we’ve all been exposed to a litany of integrated-bracelet watches over the past five years, the Trente-Deux still feels somewhat distinct. Sure, details such as the ridged bezel and the crown guards feel familiar, but there are enough little flourishes to separate the watch from the pack. For example, the case’s top surface has a chamfered plate that sits atop the mid-case. Best of all, all of the surfaces alternate between polished and brushed finishes. This creates a clean, precisely made appearance.
A slim bracelet with an interesting clasp
Brands appear to be paying real attention to feedback about bracelets. For years, we’ve lived with uncouth, clunky bracelets and equally ungainly clasps. The Trente-Deux seeks to solve this with thin, wrist-hugging links and an equally slim clasp. The double-folding closure system uses a leaf spring design to reduce thickness. This is an interesting move and recalls a similar system from Delugs. Frankly, I like the idea of using a spring to keep the clasp closed versus a complex and thick push-button system. However, I’d like to try it in the metal to ensure there’s no lateral wobble.
Two sunray dials to choose from
Trilobe is debuting the Trente-Deux in two options. Dark blue and dark gray dials are available, each with polished metal hardware and printed numerals. Regarding the dial surfaces, the peripheral hour ring and the minute disc both have a matte, grainy texture, while the large central area displays a sunray finish. Finally, the seconds display combines azurage and a guilloché central section. On paper, a lot is happening, but the design is cohesive, simple, and wonderfully easy to read. As a refresher, the Trilobe logo points to the hour. The small off-center display shows the minutes, and the larger sub-dial depicts running seconds. Reading top to bottom in a vertical line is the correct way to accurately tell the time.
The X-Nihilo is the brand’s first in-house caliber
Perhaps one of the most exciting details about the Trente-Deux is that it uses Trilobe’s first in-house movement. Before getting into the specs, the brand was explicit that the new automatic X-Nihilo was designed, machined, and assembled in-house. I think the movement looks stunning and worthy of praise. While it is a simple design, there are some lovely details to unpack. The simplistic skeletonized rotor gives a full view of the tungsten balance wheel. This is connected to a very Breguet-like bridge. Other details include 5N gold plating, black polishing, and anglage. From a performance perspective, the 34-jewel caliber has a frequency of 28,800vph and 42 hours of power reserve.
Final thoughts — the road less traveled
The Trilobe Trente-Deux is priced at €16,500, which pits it against a crowded field of integrated-bracelet contenders, including the Piaget Polo, Girard-Perregaux Laureato, and IWC Ingenieur. Those are all fine watches, but the Trilobe offers a unique take on the theme with its nontraditional time display. Is it for everyone? Probably not, but I think the watch provides a compelling option for those who enjoy wearing something different. Also, the movement is a real draw with its blend of modern and old-world aesthetics. For a seven-year-old company, Trilobe has created a convincing option, which is an impressive feat.
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