Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series
Late last year, Serica released the stylish Parade ref. 1174. It was the French brand’s first step in the realm of dress watches, and it garnered much praise. Now, Serica takes the Parade a step further with two linen dials, transporting us to the 1960s and ’70s, when linen dials were common in the watch world. As a result of the latest stylish dials, the Parade 1174 gets an injection of vintage charm that is hard to deny. Are these two new dials better than the inaugural sunburst ones? Let’s find out.
Serica’s Parade 1174 debuted last November in a year full of remarkable dress watches from smaller brands. Efforts by Toledano & Chan, Berneron, Echo/Neutra, and Dennison immediately come to mind when discussing some of 2024’s most eye-catching releases. The great thing about all of these watches is that they each have a distinct charm. As a result, they are not necessarily competing when it comes to style. Sure, when it comes to making a purchase decision, they might, but it’s great to see that, creatively, there is room for many different designs in this realm of shaped dress watches.
The details of the Serica Parade 1174 Linen series
When it comes to the Serica Parade 1174 specifically, the defining characteristic is its stadium-shaped stainless steel case. The elliptical form was inspired by the great Roman stadiums of the past. It has a 35mm diameter, a 41mm length, and a mere 8.6mm thickness, giving it modern proportions. It’s the kind of case that has plenty of classic charm, but the modern-day proportions make it a great daily wearer.
As with the inaugural duo of Parade models, the mix of finishes adds to the visual brilliance of the two new ones. Daan explained in his review of the first two watches that the broad bezel features vertical brushing on top and a polished bevel. From there, it flows into a ring, which creates an elegant step before getting to the actual case.
The case flares out with “wings” on the right and left sides. The wing on the right side protects the push/pull crown that controls the automatic Soprod M100 caliber. In terms of finishing, the mid-case is polished on top and horizontally brushed on the flanks. So, as you can see, there is quite a bit of detail that makes the seemingly straightforward case shape a lot more intricate than you would first think.
New linen dials for the Serica Parade 1174
The big news with this release is the introduction of two linen dials, which Serica calls Slate Blue and Tobacco Green (though the latter looks brown). The first thing that stands out is how the two dials inject the watches with an extra burst of vintage appeal.
The dials are textured and give off distinct ’70s vibes. The texture makes me recall my childhood in the ’70s, which warms my heart. My parents had linen wallpaper in the house I grew up in, so these dials take me back to that time and place. It’s a powerful memory.
But apart from that, the texture also pops. Usually, linen dials are relatively subtle. But Serica chose to add some proper depth and texture to these, which I love. The one thing that surprised me somewhat was the sheen of both dials. It looks like a layer of lacquer. Admittedly, I would have preferred a proper matte finish in line with actual linen.
The dial is combined with small applied dots that serve as the hour markers and the leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. Lastly, the “Serica Swiss” text straddling the 6 o’clock marker is the only text on the dial. Still, thanks to the rich linen texture, this minimalist dial certainly doesn’t feel empty.
The Soprod M100 caliber
Hidden behind the steel case back of the Parade 1174 is the Swiss-made Soprod M100 caliber. The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph, features 25 jewels, and holds a power reserve of 42 hours. Serica uses the same caliber for its ref. 6190 field watches and ref. 5303 dive watches. It’s great that the brand used an automatic caliber and still managed to keep the case thickness under the 9mm mark. It combines great everyday practicality with brilliant wearability, an essential element in creating a great modern dress watch.
The main difference compared to the Serica 6190 and 5303 peers is that the Parade 1174 does not house a COSC-certified version of the Soprod M100. But knowing the guys from Serica, I wouldn’t be surprised to see that change eventually to keep the brand’s entire collection powered by chronometer-certified calibers. It would certainly be a nice selling point.
Wearing the new Serica Parade 1174 Linen series
Both new Parade models came fitted with supple alligator-embossed calfskin straps matching the dial colors. These straps feature the signature Stadium pin buckle that follows the shape of the case.
I love the straps because they add more retro appeal to the two watches. But it goes without saying that these new Parade variants pair nicely with many kinds of straps. I would try different colors and materials regularly to see what works best in a given situation.
The 18mm straps attach to the underside of the lugless case, allowing the shapes of both components to flow nicely into each other. This results in two watches that wear wonderfully well and look equally elegant.
Most of all, Serica founder Jérôme Burgert did a wonderful job creating a dress watch that feels more contemporary than many classic dress pieces. The substantial case size with the wide, flat bezel makes it look modern and relevant.
A great modern dress watch that offers tremendous versatility
On top of that, the watches are great for various wrist sizes. Both Daan and I thoroughly enjoyed the Parade, and I have significantly bigger wrists than he does. This is a testament to the incredible versatility of the Serica Parade 1174. As far as the new dials go, I love how they tap into my history. It makes them personal favorites over the inaugural black and gold-colored dials. In terms of style, the new linen dials turn the ’70s vibes all the way up to 11. If you do not like that, the first duo of Parade 1174 models will remain your favorite.
But if you like a good vintage linen dial, you will appreciate the retro feel of the Parade 1174 Linen variants, which cost €1,490, just like the first two. I, for one, love the new dials because they show that Serica founders Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette are driven by the creative appeal and retro style that make their watches so attractive.
Any addition to the lineup must first appeal to the two men, and only then will they proceed with it. That makes Serica a characterful brand that keeps me on the edge of my seat with every release. The new Serica Parade 1174 Linen series is the perfect proof of that.
