Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 Vs. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
It’s Sunday, so it’s time to wake up with a nice cup of coffee and another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg picked two absolute heavy hitters to face off in this battle of stainless steel chronographs. Mike picked the current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126500LN, while Jorg picked the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001. Which of the two will be crowned king of the stainless steel chronos? Let’s find out!
Much to our surprise, we have never had a Sunday Morning Showdown with these two models. Some of us were sure that we had pitted them against each other before. As it turns out, we haven’t. So this gives us a great opportunity to find out which chronograph you, the Fratelli, prefer. One option is the current Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in stainless steel. The latest generation of the brand’s famous chronograph debuted during Watches and Wonders in 2023. It introduced a slightly updated design and the new caliber 4131 and is currently priced at €16,100. Today, it goes up against the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White,” which Omega launched in 2020. The ultimate stainless steel Speedmaster is a favorite here at Fratello and currently retails for €17,100. Let’s find out whether it can beat the current Daytona.
Last week, on Sunday Morning Showdown…
But first, let’s quickly recap last week’s battle. In it, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “Orange” took on the Tudor Pelagos Ultra. The Seamaster ended up taking the win. The latest addition to the Seamaster Diver 300M lineup earned 56% of the votes, leaving the Pelagos Ultra with 44%. In the comments, it seemed like the sentiment was the other way around, with many favoring the Tudor. In the end, though, the numbers don’t lie, and they tell us that the Omega won this battle. Can the brand earn another victory in this week’s epic battle of the chronographs? Over to Mike and Jorg to make their cases before you get to vote.
Jorg: Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White”
Let me start with a little confession: the current Rolex Daytona has grown on me quite a bit. I have never been a fan of the modern, automatic Daytonas, but the current generation of gold ones is thoroughly impressive. Yes, you read that correctly. I have truly warmed up to the gold versions of The Crown’s prestigious chronograph recently.
After a recent visit to the Rolex offices in Brussels, I was super impressed by the lineup of new models. As some of you might know, the newly introduced yellow gold version with the turquoise lacquer dial is one of my favorites of the year. And with the full-Everose version with a chocolate dial, the brand added another stunner to the collection, so to say I don’t like the Daytona would be lying.
But the modern version of the stainless steel Daytona has always left me cold. From the first automatic Daytona ref. 16520 to the current ref. 126500LN, I’ve always thought it was a bit bland. The white-dial versions, in particular, are yawn-inducing watches at best. While the switch to a black Cerachrom bezel has helped make the Daytona more attractive, I still don’t find it visually exciting. With one glance at the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White,” though, I completely forget about the Daytona. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 is the far more engaging storyteller and the more attractive watch to admire. Plus, it is powered by a brilliant modern version of a legendary movement.
The emotions I feel for the Speedmaster Calibre 321 are different
The Speedmaster Calibre 321 is produced in a dedicated production facility under the care of a single watchmaker, making this watch the superior emotional storyteller in this battle versus the ultimate mass-produced chronograph. I do not question the quality or the technical brilliance of the Daytona, nor do I debate its spot in watchmaking history. However, it simply doesn’t have that same emotional value to me that the Speedmaster Calibre 321 has. The easiest way to put it is that the Daytona is just another Rolex, but the Speedmaster Calibre 321 is most definitely not just another Omega.
As a little aside, Robert-Jan has written plenty of stories about the brilliance of his 321. If you want to learn more about the Speedmaster Calibre 321, I suggest you read his article on what makes the watch so special. You can also read his in-depth review and thoughts on whether he would buy it again. For those who don’t know, the modern Speedmaster Calibre 321 was based on Gene Cernan’s Speedmaster 105.003. The watch is manufactured according to modern production standards, making it the perfect reissue of a third-generation Speedy.
A dedicated production facility for the Speedmaster Calibre 321
But there is more to it than that. As I mentioned, Omega created a dedicated production facility in Biel for the 321. I had the pleasure of visiting it a few years ago, and it gave me a better idea of the dedication and craftsmanship that goes into making these watches. Every watch, including the movement, is assembled twice and adjusted by a single watchmaker. He or she will put it together, adjust/regulate it, disassemble it, clean it, and assemble once more.
As a result, the level of quality control allows Omega to create a watch that stands out from all the other Speedmasters. If you’ve ever put a Speedmaster Calibre 321 on your wrist, you undoubtedly could see and feel that it’s different. I have had the pleasure of trying Robert-Jan’s Speedmaster Calibre 321 many times, and it emanates superb quality. The finishing, in particular, is on a different level compared to the regular Speedmaster. The contrast between brushed and polished parts, the tolerances, and the overall feel make it so much better than the Daytona.
The finer details
Just to tell the full story, the watch features a 39.7mm stainless steel case with a 47.8mm lug-to-lug and 13mm thickness. This classic straight-lug case houses a black galvanized step dial with three registers displaying beautifully refined concentric graining. The detail and finishing of the dial are simply stunning, and they blow the straightforward dial of the Daytona out of the water. The bezel of the Speedy features a black ceramic insert, and the sapphire crystal that protects the dial bears an etched Omega logo in the center.
Turn the watch around, and you will get a glorious view of the Sedna Gold-plated Omega caliber 321. This manual-winding movement is a wonderful modern remake of the iconic 321, the only Speedmaster caliber used on the Moon. The modern caliber 321 is beautifully finished and features a healthy 55 hours of power reserve. All these things combined, from the story and the design to the great movement, make the Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 the easy pick for me in this battle of the chronographs. But please tell us why you think the Daytona is better, Mike.
Mike: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
It seems that on most Sundays, I now find myself sparring with my buddy Jorg. That’s a pity because we’re good friends, but it’s “once more unto the breach.” This week, it’s another tough battle with the Speedmaster 321 taking on the latest Rolex Daytona. I opted to defend the Daytona, which might come across as surprising. Why? Well, I’m not known for being in love with modern Rolex watches. The Daytona, however, is a bit different.
Kind of an easy one for me
Look, I thought it was amazing when Omega decided to bring back the 321 caliber. The very idea of resurrecting a caliber is the kind of thing that seldom happens. Plus, it’s an incredible happening for a vintage fan. And while I admire the Speedmaster Calibre 321, I’d like to see the movement in other watches. But the biggest reason I chose the Daytona today comes down to a deadly combination of price and history. At €17,100, the 321 is fiercely expensive. It also reminds me of a discussion I had a week ago with a friend while he was wearing his vintage 105.003. Namely, he asked why someone would buy the new one when a fantastic vintage example can be had for less. Folks, I don’t have a good answer for this.
The Daytona isn’t perfect, but it’s damn good
The Daytona, on the other hand, at €16,100, isn’t fighting history. In stainless steel, there certainly isn’t an older model available for less. Plus, while the watch has a strong resemblance to previous references, it is a modern watch instead of a reissue. Yes, there are details I don’t love, such as an automatic movement instead of a manual-winding caliber, but at least the watch is only 11.9mm thick. Then, there are the polished center links, but those are also easy enough to rectify if truly bothersome.
On the positive front, the Daytona, if one can be found at retail (good luck!), is the king of holding value. It’s also practically a brand on its own. Like it or hate it, the watch has become an institution. While the flash factor annoys me, the watches are so damn good on the wrist. The 40mm case fits beautifully, and the bracelet is top tier.
The Daytona offers a choice
Now that the hype surrounding the 321 Speedmaster has largely subsided, Omega has a relatively easy move to make. A white-dialed version would be a nice addition. Rolex, with the Daytona, has already made that move. The 126500LN is available with a black or white dial. Both loosely feature a panda or reverse panda look with contrasting rings in each sub-dial. It’s a good look against the black Cerachrom external tachymeter bezel. I find it especially compelling on the white-dial model.
The 4131 is an impressive caliber
Rolex launched the 4131 in 2023 as an evolution of the 4130 automatic chronograph movement. It’s an impressive caliber, featuring a 72-hour power reserve, chronometer certification, and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Naturally, it possesses a column wheel. As mentioned, a manual-winding movement is normally my preference, but it’s no longer an expectation of a Daytona. The key here is that it’s thin, which helps with the wearability of the watch.
Time to choose
Folks tend to be clear on whether they’re on Team Omega or Team Rolex. In this showdown, let’s try to cast aside the normal stereotypes of each watch brand and choose what you’d like if you were coming in as a novice. As always, cast your vote, and let us know why you chose your victor. Thanks for playing!
