Personally, I like the idea of a limited edition release. But I have started hating the frequency with which brands like to use the words “limited edition.” And thankfully, some brands have taken a step back and realized they might have pushed the limits of the credibility of these two words.  But it does not necessarily mean there are no worthwhile limited editions anymore. We saw some pretty amazing limited-edition releases in 2020. These are my favorites of last year’s string of limited releases.

While there is something to be said about brands actually overusing the term “limited edition,” the behavior it sparks in consumers remains mindblowing. There is hardly a consumer phenomenon as powerful and intoxicating as the limited edition. And believe me, I have been part of that intoxicated crowd. I know all about the power of limited editions regarding sneakers, vinyl records, furniture, clothing, craft beer, and watches. And every one of those examples comes with its own nuances of why companies within that industry release limited editions. But in the end, the effect is the same when every release ends up being a limited edition. There is simply no reason to buy into it anymore.

Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 310.32.42.50.02.001.A.003

Less limited edition watches?

As stated, some of the watch companies have seen the damaging effects of overusing the words “limited edition.” And as a result, we have seen a decline in the number of limited editions…or have we? While a brand like Omega has deliberately chosen to drastically decrease the number of limited editions, other brands have not taken their foot off the gas — not at all.

In compiling this list, I quickly found out the market is still flooded with a ton of limited-edition releases. On top of that, we have seen an increase in limited production runs or “limited” production times. While that might soften the tone a bit, it essentially creates the same trigger for consumers.

Sometimes a simple change of color will do.

And I, for one, am not immune when it comes to that trigger. If a limited edition watch is well created, my boyish enthusiasm is still activated. Do I need it to tell a great story, look different, use different materials and be within my personal budget? While that would be an impressive and credible checklist, it would also be a lie. The reality is often a lot more simple. Sometimes a simple change of color will do.

1. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Infinity Edition

I was caught off guard when Girard Perregaux released the Laureato Infinity Edition during the Geneva Watch Days in late August last year. I usually do not pay a lot of attention to the Laureato. The case design uses all the elements made famous by Gérald Genta but ends up with a lot less exciting results. After seeing the Infinity Edition, however, the pieces of the puzzle seemed to fall into place.

I would be surprised if there are any left.

The magic of the watch is in the dial. And it’s also the reason this is a limited edition in the first place. Girard-Perregaux has used black onyx for the dial of the perfectly sized 42mm Laureato. A material that is difficult to work with and therefore only used in limited quantities. But the results are beautiful. The deep black dial is a stunner and contrasts perfectly with the rose gold elements. One detail I particularly like is the date indication. It is brilliantly sized and stylish in its execution.

Add the in-house Calibre GP01800, the integrated bracelet, and the €14,000 list price, and it becomes a beautiful offering. The Infinity Edition is created as a limited edition of 188 pieces that are sold exclusively at Wempe. And considering what the Laureato Infinity Edition offers, I would be surprised if there are any left.

2. Unimatic Modello Quattro U4-A

Another nice surprise arrived late last year from the guys at Unimatic. The Milan-based brand constantly releases new design iterations of its Modello Uno, Modello Due, and Modello Tre. But in the second week of December, I received the all-new Modello Quattro for review — a new Unimatic model that uses the case from the Modello Uno, the brand’s minimalist dive watch. For the Modello Quattro, the brand designed a new fixed bezel that gives the watch the looks of a sturdy military watch.

After throwing off the ghost of the Modello Uno that I own, I quickly found myself smitten by the looks of the Modello Quattro U4-A. As the brand founders are industrial designers, they know how to develop new designs that might challenge you at first. But give it some time, and you will find out that what they have done is smart and well thought out to the last detail.

I expect to be this Modello Quattro to be a huge hit.

The people familiar with the brand know that Unimatic produces limited production runs off all its watches before moving on to a new design. As the demand has grown, so too has the brand increased its production. And I have to give the founders credit for that. While you still have to be quick to order a Unimatic, chances are fairly decent you can actually get one. However, I expect this Modello Quattro to be a huge hit. All 500 pieces of the U4-A sold out instantly for €425 ex. VAT. And I expect the same for future models.

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3. Breitling Chronomat B01 42 “Frecce Tricolori”

Before Breitling released its all-new Chronomat in 2020, I did not care much for it at all. For years I had associated the previous generations of the Chronomat with rather questionable types that are not afraid to use their watch as a weapon. But seeing the new Chronomat after getting the Kern-treatment, I was more than pleasantly surprised. The new Chronomat is more elegant in its presence, brings back the legendary Rouleaux bracelet, and comes in a variety of great dial colors.

There is simply a lot to like here.

The one version that really caught my eye at the introduction was the “Frecce Tricolori” released in a limited production of 250 pieces. Fellow Fratello team member Ben did not hesitate a second and decided to order one. In his review of the “Frecce Tricolori,” Ben explains perfectly what makes this great watch. At 42mm, this is the perfect size; it is powered by the great in-house produced Breitling B01 chronograph movement, the dial is absolutely gorgeous, and the redesigned Rouleaux bracelet is a winner. There is simply a lot to like here.

The €8,100 limited edition watch pays tribute to the original 1983 Chronomat “Frecce Tricolori” that honors the famous Italian aerial squadron. And one detail that really makes this a winner for me is that the squadron insignia is the only logo on the dial. There is no Breitling logo on it, just like there is none on the 1983 original. In today’s world, where branding is key, you could consider this a rather bold move. But we end up with a tribute that is not only beautiful but also truthful. Something that Breitling has understood perfectly with all of its recent re-issues. And that matters.

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4. Czapek Antarctique Terre Adélie

The Czapek Antarctique Terre Adélie is one of my overall favorite releases from 2020. I still remember vividly when Gerard came into the Fratello offices after the online presentation of the watch. His enthusiasm was palpable. He explained that Czapek had made something rather impressive, but was teasingly coy on specifics. I had no idea what to expect from Czapek when it came to the brand’s first stab at a luxury modern sports watch, but it sure wasn’t this!

What I love above all else when it comes to the Antarctique Terre Adélie is that it doesn’t take specific design cues from any of the heavy hitters that defined the category. It rather has this retro German ’70s design feel that works incredibly well for me. I love the combination of the 40.5mm case shape, the dial design, and the integrated bracelet. Add the spectacular in-house developed automatic SXH5.01 movement to the mix and this Czapek Antarctique is a winner.

It’s a game-changer.

I am not the only Fratello team member that likes the Czapek Antarctique. In his review, Rob explained why it is a watch that is easy to get excited about and even called it a game-changer. I completely agree, and Rob and I are not the only ones. With a list price of just under €20,000, all 99 pieces of the Antarctique Terre Adélie sold out in just 18 days after being announced. Not bad for a first try.

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5. Laventure Transatlantique GMT

Rob turned me on to the Laventure brand when he brought his Laventure Marine and Sous-Marine to the Fratello offices. Both are great watches from the young Neuchatel brand. And something that Rob and I agree on is that the Marine could be even better on a stainless steel bracelet. Especially after seeing the bracelet of the Laventure Transatalantique GMT that Rob wrote about during his holidays.

I love the idea of a GMT-watch with a green bezel. It takes a step away from the well-known colors we have come to know from other brands. I wasn’t sure about the lighter shade of green of the bezel at first, but I kept coming back to the images of the Transatlantique GMT. And after some time, my question was not whether I liked the watch but which of the two dial colors I would prefer.

Modern-day design with a cool retro vibe.

It’s this combination of modern-day design with a cool retro vibe that works very well. The combination with the two shades of green really works well. Add the sand-colored markers and numerals, the beautifully designed bracelet, and details like the great handset and the Plexiglass for an added vintage feel, and the Transatlantique GMT is a great next step for Laventure. At CHF 3,350, powered by an ETA2824, there are plenty of lovers and haters. But both the green dial and the cream dial version sold out very quickly. And I understand why. This watch has stunning looks and the quality of Laventure’s previous releases to back them up. I’m siding with the people that love it and I would definitely like to have another shot at getting this.

We would love to hear your thoughts on the whole concept of limited editions. Leave us a note in the comments, and don’t forget to share your favorites from 2020 too!