Earthen Co.’s New Summit Collection Convinced Me About Ceramic Watches
Back in the ’90s, I got really into watches. I remember sitting across from a guy on the train who was wearing a Rolex Explorer — one without the white gold surrounds on its hour markers, so probably a reference 1016. I asked him about it, and he said he had owned it for a long time and had traveled the world with it.
There was no further discussion about the watch itself; it barely interested him. The Rolex was just a watch he needed or relied on, apparently. He was dressed in a way that made me think he was about to travel abroad, with a worn duffel bag and shoes. He didn’t seem like someone with a boring office job, but as I reached my destination (an office), I got off and started thinking more about what he might have meant. Unfortunately, I was not able to ask him. What was very clear, though, was that he hadn’t purchased this watch to show off or have a “luxury product” on his wrist. No, this watch was probably his life companion, on his wrist when traveling the world or working on his car or bike.
Still a tool watch?
Encountering someone wearing a (modern) Rolex Explorer today would leave me with a very different impression. People should do as they please, without judgment from me or someone else. That said, I firmly believe that other brands now offer more suitable tool watches for people like the man I met on that train. Would he buy a modern Rolex Explorer today? Probably not. Although a Rolex was never cheap, it had a different significance than it does today. While a gold Day-Date or any Rolex with gold has always been seen as a status symbol, an Explorer has not. It was a tool watch — an expensive one, yes, but just a very good and reliable watch that could take a beating.
The same is true for an IWC Mark-series model or any other watch originally designed or developed as a mechanical tool that has now become a luxury item (or, at least, carries a luxury price). All of this ran through my mind when I opened the box with watches made by Earthen Co. and gave them a first look.
Earthen Co. Summit Collection
Meet the Earthen Co. Summit Collection
It shouldn’t be a surprise that these new watches from Earthen Co.’s Summit Collection remind me of tool watches of yesteryear. I am a sucker for nostalgia (which is also a bit of a shortcoming, I must admit), but luckily, Earthen Co. ensured these watches are as modern as a Hublot.
All the Summit Collection models are ceramic watches, either in black or white. The white ceramic Summit watch is available with a choice of two dials — a “classic” black one and a white ceramic full-lume version.
Blue Bird, Overcast, and Whiteout
The white ceramic watch with a white dial is called the Blue Bird, and it comes on a baby-blue sailcloth strap. The black-dial edition goes by the name Whiteout, and this one has a white sailcloth strap. These are modern interpretations of a utilitarian watch.
Lastly, there is the Overcast model, which features a black ceramic case with a matte black dial and a khaki-green sailcloth strap. What I like best about the Overcast version is that the finishing of the case and bezel is more visible than on the white ceramic models.
The case band and bezel’s satin finishing and the deeper brushing on the lugs just show up better on the black ceramic edition. Additionally, I like the faux-patina-filled markers and hands. All three Summit Collection watches come with a matching NATO strap as well. Switching straps isn’t an issue because the mounted sailcloth straps have a quick-release system.
The specs are on point
Along with a 38mm diameter and a 45mm lug-to-lug, the case has a very wearable 10mm profile. It sits perfectly on my 18cm wrist and feels a bit more compact than, for example, my colleague’s 38mm Hamilton Khaki Field Auto.
The oversized crown does not bother me at all, and it is very easy and enjoyable to operate. As you can see in the pictures, each crown has a rubber gasket. The one on the Blue Bird is blue, and the other two models both have a black gasket. The Blue Bird also has a blue gasket under the crystal, which gives it a fresh appeal.
Alpine-inspired watches for adventurers
The Summit is easy to wear, solid-feeling, and very GADA-ish (or just GADA, with a 100m water resistance rating). The case back is made of stainless steel and is attached to the case with four screws.
You find this little logo between the center pinion and the 6 o’clock hour marker on the dials. At first (I have bad eyesight), it looked to me like a broad arrow sign but with a slightly different take on it. However, upon closer inspection, you can see it’s a graphic representation of a mountain with a skier on it. Earthen says the Summit Collection is Alpine-inspired, so there you go.
Miyota is not high horology
The Summit Collection watches feature a Miyota 9039 self-winding movement. In the official press release, Earthen states, “It’s not high horology, but it’s daring—pushing boundaries to deliver unmatched quality at this price.” Earthen Co. priced these watches at US$899 (ex. taxes) each, and a ceramic watch with this level of finishing for that kind of money is quite a deal. Had the Summit used a Swiss mechanical movement instead, the price would have been significantly higher.
The on-wrist experience
I started this article with a little anecdote on an encounter with a vintage Rolex Explorer. Does the Summit Collection give me Explorer or Mark-series vibes after a more thorough “touch and try”? At first sight, it surely did, and it still does. However, these watches offer a different experience, not least of all because they’re more modern interpretations with ceramic cases.
However, I still think that those who are after a utilitarian watch (the brand likes to present it as a watch built for adventure) will enjoy the Summit Collection. In my opinion, it holds up very well against the mentioned Hamilton watch, for example. Had Earthen Co. used an ETA caliber with a chronometer certification, the watch could have been significantly more expensive. The question is whether the market is more saturated with watches in that segment (US$1,500–3,000) than sub-$1,000 ones offering similar looks and specs.
Ceramic surprise
What surprised me most about the Summit Collection was that it demonstrates that ceramic doesn’t always need to be a shiny, plastic-looking material. We saw Blancpain using ceramics with very nice brushed and satin-finished surfaces, but that was in a very different price category.
I am not claiming the quality of these Summit Collection watches is equal to that of Blancpain, but the types of finishing used for the different surfaces are more attractive than most other ceramic watches out there. The Overcast model, which allows you to clearly see and enjoy the various types of finishing on the ceramic surfaces, made me realize I am finally ready for this high-tech material.
A matter of time
Earthen Co. demonstrates that friendlier-priced microbrands offer severe competition and alternatives to watches from the established big brands that might still rule the category in production numbers but not in value for money. And as I believe that brand perception doesn’t play a decisive role anymore with a large (especially younger) audience, it will be a matter of time before microbrands will also reach people outside the watch bubble.
Earthen Co. will initially produce just 100 pieces of each Summit Collection model. Afterwards, the brand will restock more of them. For more information, visit the Earthen Co. website.
