Fratello’s Top 5 Complicated Watches Of 2025 — Featuring Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Breguet, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we selected our five favorite complicated watches released in 2025. Indeed, many contenders were fighting for a spot among these. We have seen many impressive releases that either introduced new technologies or were groundbreaking due to the sheer number of complications involved. In life, though, it’s not just about brains but also about beauty. For this list, we wanted to pick watches with both, but as you will understand, beauty is always in the eye of the beholder. With that in mind, let’s jump into the list of our favorite complicated watches of 2025!

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

This list can only begin with the most complicated wristwatch ever produced. To celebrate its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin treated us to a series of notable releases. My favorite was the stainless steel Historiques 222, which made it onto my year-end list that we published last week. But the absolute masterpiece was the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication.

The watch was unveiled during Watches and Wonders and features a whopping total of 41 complications displayed on two dials. That doesn’t tell the entire story, though, because the team at Vacheron Constantin managed to fit them into an 18K white gold case with a 45mm diameter and a 14.99mm profile.

I won’t go over all the different complications and details in this list, but if you’d like to find out more, I suggest reading Henry’s introductory article. What is worth mentioning, besides the brilliant wearability of this unique piece, is its extraordinary movement. Powering the watch is the manufacture caliber 3655, a 1,521-component movement with 13 pending patent applications. This caliber operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour, contains 204 jewels, and offers a generous 72-hour power reserve.

The perfect mix of information and design

In addition to the monumental task of creating such a caliber, it requires a great deal of design ingenuity to ensure that the watch is both easy to navigate and visually appealing. As you can see in the pictures, the Vacheron Constantin designers did an amazing job with that. The front dial features four displays that integrate a plethora of functions.

Additionally, the back dial displays a sky map and the chronograph counters. To ensure that all the information is easy to read, the designers used a combination of font types and colors. But it doesn’t end there, as the clever mix of finishes also provides extra contrast, making it easier to navigate the overwhelming stream of information.

In addition to making the watch visually brilliant, the team also had to integrate a chiming mechanism while maintaining a sub-15mm case thickness to keep the watch wearable. It’s one of the many tasks that the entire team at Vacheron Constantin succeeded in gloriously. As a result, this exceptional piece of high horology is the immediate highlight that comes to mind when picking our favorite complicated watches of the year.

I would even go so far as to state that this Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication is a massive technological achievement that won’t be topped in the next decade. It proves once more that Vacheron Constantin is part of the Holy Trinity of Swiss watchmaking for a reason.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

Our second pick for the year’s best complicated watches also comes from a Holy Trinity brand. Audemars Piguet graced us with two groundbreaking calibers that technologically redefined what their respective categories can be. One was the brand-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5 that was on last week’s list of our favorite chronographs of 2025.

The other was unveiled earlier in the year in a brilliant series of perpetual calendars. Audemars Piguet introduced one Code 11.59 and two Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar models. We picked the Royal Oak because it is more significant for the brand and is also our visual favorite. However, both the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars house the revolutionary caliber 7138, so the technical innovation is the same.

Lex explained the central idea behind Gulio Papi’s innovative look at the chronograph in his in-depth article about the new caliber 7138. Essentially, the intuitive usability of his iPhone influenced AP’s technical director to bring the same ingenuity to the world of watchmaking.

The brilliant quest for ease of use and operation

Papi developed an exceptional caliber that allows all the different functions to be adjusted via the crown. As a result, it eschews the practically ever-present calendar correctors on the side of the case. But that is not where it ends. What makes this movement truly a brilliant technical step for perpetual calendars is the fact that the caliber 7138 can be adjusted forward and backward. All these improvements reflect Papi’s goal to make a watch easy to read and operate. I suggest that you read Lex’s article for a full rundown of the magic of the new caliber 7138.

He also wrote a follow-up article about the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars after having the chance to do a hands-on review. As mentioned, Audemars Piguet introduced three references with this caliber, but our favorite is the first of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel with a blue dial (ref. 26674ST.OO.1320ST.01). You simply can’t beat this classic combo of materials and colors.

That’s not to say that the model in sand gold with a gold dial (ref. 26674SG.OO.1320SG.01) is a slouch. Sometimes, though, the classic look is the best option, and the classic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was brilliantly reinvented this year.

Breguet Expérimentale 1

Our third pick for the top five complicated watches of 2025 is the recently released Breguet Expérimentale 1. It’s another mighty impressive release that Lex reported on when it came out. Once more, I suggest that you read the introduction article, as a couple of paragraphs here won’t do this groundbreaking timepiece justice. The watch was released in Breguet’s 250th anniversary year, which saw a string of brilliant releases from the brand. But the Expérimentale 1 is truly on another level. For this stunning watch, Breguet created the first 10Hz tourbillon with a magnetic escapement, which delivers constant force to the balance.

The Expérimentale 1 is the first in a new series of experimental R&D-focused watches that Breguet will create under the leadership of CEO Gregory Kiesling, who took over in October 2024. The first goal of this series is to achieve the greatest precision possible, and the second is to connect heritage and the future through these horological creations. This first model is the perfect watch to kick off the series, as it perfectly captures the history and tradition of Breguet, combining them with a new, contemporary design for its Marine collection.

A new face for the Breguet Marine collection

As Lex explained, the watch has a newly designed 43.5mm Breguet gold Marine case. It features an updated design with characteristic coin-edge case sides, closely set central lugs, an interchangeable rubber strap, and fully luminescent indications. All this is combined with the traditional design language of Breguet’s No. 3448 pocket watch, which is particularly evident in the dial design and the caliber’s architecture. As a result, the watch immediately stands out as a fresh and special creation.

In terms of technology, the Breguet team tackled the three main challenges that every watchmaker faces — consistent balance amplitude, the influence of Earth’s gravity, and shock resistance. The brand’s answer comes in the form of a 10Hz tourbillon paired with a magnetic constant-force escapement.

How does it all work? I highly recommend reading Lex’s article, as it is far too complex to explain in a brief list like this. But take it from us that the Expérimentale 1 signifies more than just its technological achievement. It’s also a return to the forefront of high horology in style for Breguet after a year full of highlights. The future looks bright for the brand, and we can’t wait to see what is next.

Gérald Genta Minute Repeater

Our next pick is relevant in more ways than one. First off, the return of the Gérald Genta brand has been great to witness. The legendary designer’s body of work is extensive, providing ample inspiration for excellent timepieces rooted in the man’s colorful past. The new Minute Repeater is a great example of that. This watch was presented during Geneva Watch Days and looks deceivingly simple. However, with the Gérald Genta Minute Repeater, the creators also demonstrate that a minute repeater doesn’t require a large case. It truly is a beautiful, creative, and technological achievement.

As Lex explained in his introduction article, the watch has a beautifully sculpted 40mm yellow gold case with a 9.6mm profile, making it remarkably thin for a minute repeater. The cushion-shaped case, with its smooth lines, is beautiful and represents a natural evolution of Genta’s signature octagonal shape. It’s a lovely case, but the true magic is in its construction.

It features ultra-thin walls (0.6mm at the thinnest point) and an internal architecture reminiscent of a sound studio. The case was specifically designed to allow the chime to breathe and resonate, producing crisp, melodic sounds when it indicates the time. The sapphire crystal is 0.8mm thick, which also makes it thinner than a typical sapphire crystal.

A wonderfully simple but intelligently designed dial

Inside the case, you will find the GG-002 caliber. This movement takes a total of four weeks to produce due to its complex architecture and the 100% manually applied high-horology finishing. The in-house-developed caliber operates at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers an 80-hour power reserve. A nice detail is the octagonal inertia wheel, a nod to Gérald Genta’s favorite shape. Because it takes a month to produce each movement, production is capped at 10 per year.

Returning to the front side of this stunning watch, we find a beautiful black onyx dial with an ingenious white railroad minute track. The outer ring follows the case shape, while the inner ring is circular. Placed between these two lines are numerals for every five minutes. The design looks odd at first, but I, at least, got used to it quite quickly.

As you can see, the white circle ensures the yellow gold hour markers are placed neatly following the shape of the minute track. The yellow gold hands and the white Gérald Genta name are the only other elements contrasting with the deep black dial. Located on the left side of the case is the slide that activates the minute repeater. It’s the only element that tells you there is more to this stunning Gérald Genta Minute Repeater than a stylish watch telling the time, and I adore that.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179

Our last pick for this year’s best complicated watches is the impressive Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179. In a year that was all about the Reverso for Jaeger-LeCoultre, we saw a series of great releases. The collective Fratello favorite would be the all-rose-gold Reverso featuring a super impressive Milanese mesh bracelet. Another highlight was the Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179, a 10-piece limited edition that costs a whopping US$565,000. But what you get in return is a stellar display of horological wizardry from Jaeger-LeCoultre.

The Reverso Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is a watch that you won’t easily forget. As Thomas explained in his introduction article, once the word “Hybris” pops up, you know you are in for an impressive ride. The concept of this extraordinary watch is built around the basic Reverso Duoface. This means you get a watch with a time zone on each dial, and the rear dial also has a 24-hour indicator. However, that is not the central story of the watch, as that is the gyro tourbillon located at 6 o’clock. While technically not a “complication” in a horological sense, this tourbillon is most certainly a complex mechanism.

Understanding the magic of the caliber

The wonderful tourbillon makes a full rotation every 16 seconds, while its cage completes a lap in a full minute. Add the semi-spherical balance spring, and this becomes quite a visual spectacle. The canvas for this technical mechanism is a heavily skeletonized dial courtesy of the brand’s Metiers Rares workshop. Thanks to the open-worked dial, you get a great view of the inner workings of the manual-winding caliber 179. As you would expect, the finishing of the individual elements is breathtaking.

The main dial features a dark blue lacquer. The liquid is meticulously added to the small basins, creating an impressive depth. This same blue lacquer is also used for the skeletonized side, which features blue-lacquered bridges to connect the front and back sides of the watch.

There is a lot to discover just by looking at the dials. These sit inside a white gold case with a 31mm diameter, a 51.1mm length, and a 13.63mm profile. These measurements mean that this is a rather big Reverso, but the Hybris Artistica Calibre 179 is a watch that is hard to forget. That makes it a great fifth and final pick for this list.

Final thoughts on the top five complicated watches of 2025

There you have it — our five favorite complicated watches that debuted this year! As always, there are many more options that we could have included on this list. That’s why I would love to turn the question to you. What are some of your favorite complicated watches of 2025? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you next week for another year-end list.