Fratello’s Top 5 Currently Available Tudor Watches
Another Friday, another list! The end of the year is almost in sight, and with that in mind, we will soon start our series of best-of lists for 2025. One of the brands that had a relatively quiet year compared to previous ones was Tudor. During Watches and Wonders, the brand presented some solid additions to the lineup, but none of them generated the same level of hype as some of the releases from previous years. This sparked the idea of a Top 5 list of our favorite currently available Tudor watches. Will one of this year’s releases make the list? Let’s find out.
Before we get into it, though, it’s worth mentioning that we did see some surprising releases from Tudor this year. The first that comes to mind is the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25.” When I first saw the watch, it didn’t immediately impress me. I am not a fan of marketing-induced watches in general, and the collab with the VCARB Formula 1 team only seemed to solidify that belief. Additionally, the color combination was not to my taste, which left me with the fact that it’s a carbon-cased Black Bay Chrono that explores new territory in terms of materials and price levels. However, the watch is significantly more refined than the images suggest. On top of that, it’s an impressively made watch that resulted in me fiercely defending it against the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph × Gulf in our Sunday Morning Showdown series.
This year brought surprises from Tudor
An additional surprise that we could never have predicted was the brand’s first watch with a moonphase complication. Despite the novelty of the Tudor 1926 Luna, it wasn’t met with widespread praise from the press and fans. And you seemed to agree with that since the watch took one of the biggest beatings in our Sunday Morning Showdown series this year. My favorite 2025 Tudor release was the Pelagos Ultra. In terms of specs and design, it is a worthy update to the regular Pelagos, which has been part of the collection for years now. I would definitely pick that over the good old Pelagos, as it boasts a crisp design and a set of specs that are nothing short of impressive. Has it made this week’s list? Let’s find out by unveiling our five favorite current Tudor watches.
Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time”
We kick the list off with one of the brand’s highlights from last year. The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” made it onto Nacho’s year-end list, and it gave me one of my favorite hands-on experiences of 2024. The watch solidified the thought that I have shifted focus from the Black Bay to the Pelagos line when it comes to personal favorites. In the review, I mentioned that I liked the watch but hadn’t fallen in love with it. A little over a year later, the Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” continues to intrigue me. The watch has made a more profound impact than I might have foreseen at the time of reviewing it.
Tudor created this watch with the Marine Nationale’s Aéronautique Navale pilots in mind. Tudor’s longtime collaboration with the Marine Nationale is well known, but this new Pelagos adds a new dimension, as it is the first Pelagos GMT. The watch seamlessly integrates the GMT complication into the characteristic Pelagos design, and Tudor’s designers have done so cleverly. It all starts with the 42mm by 52mm Grade 2 titanium case, which has a 12.7mm profile, including the crystal. However, the fixed strap bars combined with a comfortable fabric strap make the watch wear significantly better than the numbers would suggest.
A Pelagos with a standout design
Topping the case is a 48-click titanium bezel with a black ceramic GMT bezel insert, which features numerals and markings of uniform height. As a result, a lot is happening, especially in conjunction with the black dial, which features characteristic square, rectangular, and triangular markers.
The signature Tudor Snowflake handset is expanded with an orange GMT hand that corresponds with the model name on the dial. Additionally, the brand chose a cream tone for the luminous numerals and markings on the bezel and dial. I like that color because it gives the watch a warmer presence. However, when the lume lights up in the dark, you will see a clever combination of turquoise-like light blue and bright green lume, which also adds a nice visual touch to the watch.
Inside the case, you will find the Master Chronometer caliber MT5652-U. This flyer-style movement ticks at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 65-hour power reserve. It’s the perfect caliber for this modern military-inspired GMT. On the wrist, the watch wears brilliantly, feels incredibly solid, and looks cool on the 22mm green fabric strap. And it’s those tool-watch looks and specs that have repeatedly impressed me over the past 12 months. That’s why this €4,750 Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” is our first pick for this list.
Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer “Monochrome”
Our next pick also came out last year when Tudor released a Black Bay model without the vintage dressing that we have come to know from the brand. As a result, this 41mm model is a clean, modern version of the Black Bay. Sure, it still has the stylistic hints of the past, but it’s not trying to be something that it isn’t. As a result, it felt like a breath of fresh air when it debuted. I had the chance to wear the watch for a hands-on review, and it felt like the brand had finally made its modern-day version of the classic Tudor Submariner.
The Black Bay “Monochrome” has a 41mm stainless steel case with a 50mm lug-to-lug and a 13.6mm total thickness. While the watch is substantial in size, it never felt too big, making it a perfect daily wearer.
The black dial and bezel insert, both with silver markings, give the watch a crisp look compared to its burgundy counterpart, which was the first of the updated Black Bay models. Finishing the look is either an Oyster-style bracelet, a Jubilee-style bracelet, or a rubber strap. I strongly favor the Oyster-style bracelet. To me, a bracelet is always the default choice, and the Jubilee-style one feels out of place on a classically styled dive watch.
The best stainless steel diver under €5K
Inside the case, Tudor equips the watch with its Master Chronometer Tudor MT5602-U caliber. This automatic movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour, offers a 70-hour power reserve, and is accurate to 0/+5 seconds per day, making it a great choice for this modern daily driver. On the wrist, the watch feels wonderful.
It emphasizes that Tudor produces some of the absolute best watches under €5,000. The build quality easily surpasses that of many competitors, resulting in a great, reassuring feel on the wrist. Additionally, the new case is thinner than that of the previous model, making it more comfortable to wear. If you want a modern stainless steel dive watch with the famous Submariner looks but don’t want to spend Submariner money, this Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” is an easy pick at €4,660 on the Oyster-style bracelet.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
Our next pick is the “good old” Tudor Black Bay Pro. While last year’s version with the opaline white dial is excellent, our love for the inaugural black-dial model runs deep. But when that watch debuted in 2022, opinions were strong and loud.
After Lex wrote an opinionated article about the Black Bay Pro, a lively and lengthy discussion arose regarding the brand’s decision to introduce this model. As you know, its design resembles the first-generation Rolex Explorer II, a watch that Lex loves dearly, as do many members of the Fratello team, including yours truly.
But after the dust clouds settled and time passed, the Black Bay Pro became a massive success for Tudor. I also quickly changed my mind about the watch. At first, I thought it was too easy to mimic the legendary “Freccione.” However, after wearing the watch a few times, I quickly found that the brand had done an excellent job of making it a true Tudor. As a result, I couldn’t help but fall in love with it. Even the chunky case didn’t bother me all that much.
Will Tudor eventually slim down the Black Bay Pro?
One cause for concern among many watch fans was this 39mm watch’s 14.7mm thickness. Due to the slab-like flanks, you will also be reminded of that every time you look at it. But I never found the chunky case unpleasant to wear. The wearing experience reminded me of my favorite Rolex Sea-Dweller ref. 16600, which has similar proportions. Inside the case, Tudor uses its COSC-certified chronometer MT5652 caliber, offering a 70-hour power reserve.
At €4,440, this is still one of the best Tudor watches in the catalog. It also makes it hard to think that it will, at some point, disappear, as I wrote about in a lengthy article about the white-dial version. I genuinely hope that Tudor finds a way to update the case design and slim it down significantly. Until then, though, I feel you still can’t go wrong with it, regardless of whether you prefer the black or the white dial.
Tudor Pelagos Ultra
Our next pick is the Tudor Pelagos Ultra. This is certainly not a unanimous pick among the Fratello team, as some do prefer the classic Pelagos. And in an installment of our Sunday Morning Showdown series, our readers also seemed to like the regular Pelagos. Why pick the Ultra, then? I will make the same case as I did in that specific Sunday Morning Showdown article. If you have the chance to see the Pelagos and Pelagos Ultra side by side, the Ultra feels like the modern, natural evolution of its older brother.
The watch is slightly larger, featuring a 43mm titanium case with a 14.5mm profile. However, despite a significant boost in water resistance, that’s only a 0.2mm increase in thickness from the regular Pelagos, with the Ultra boasting a 1,000m depth rating. Like the original Pelagos, the Ultra features a helium escape valve and is accompanied by a titanium bracelet with an updated clasp. The new spring-loaded adjustable clasp features a light blue luminous dot to indicate the level of adjustment. It’s a fun and practical detail that we love. The light blue complements the “Pelagos” wording on the dial, adding a nice hint of color.
The definitive modern Pelagos
Speaking of the dial, the design is much more balanced than that of the regular Pelagos. The proportions of the markers on the bezel and dial are in sync, and the fatter hands further add to the modern presence. A nice touch is the placement of the minute markers on a raised, flat ring around the dial. The use of Grade X1 and BGW9 Swiss Super-LumiNova on the indexes, hands, and bezel brings a nice mix of bright blue and green in darker conditions. It is more proof of the brilliant updates that the Tudor design team included in the new Pelagos Ultra.
Inside the case, you will find the MT5612-U, which has been tested to both COSC specifications and the stricter METAS standards. The automatic caliber runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a generous 65-hour power reserve. All in all, the Pelagos Ultra (€6,030) is objectively better than the regular Pelagos, and its design is more relevant than the 2015 original. Ultimately, it’s not for me to decide which one you like better. However, I did choose to include it here because, for me and some of the team, this is the true modern Pelagos.
Tudor Black Bay 54
We’ll close this list out with the Tudor Black Bay 54. If there is one Black Bay model that brings the vintage look of the classic Tudor Submariners back in style, it’s the Black Bay 54. Gone are the gold-colored markings on the bezel that make the Black Bay 58 look like it’s trying too hard. Instead, Tudor only uses the vintage-inspired gold-colored details on the dial. As the dial mimics the gilt dials of the 1950s, this makes sense. The result is a beautifully proportioned watch that strikes a perfect balance between retro style and modern-day comfort.
As Thomas explained in his hands-on review, the smallest of the Black Bay models has considerable wrist presence. I had my doubts because the only way the Black Bay 58 doesn’t look too small on my wrist is on a bracelet. With a 2mm reduction in case size compared to the 39mm Black Bay 58, the Black Bay 54 is even more modest. But I was pleasantly surprised that it fit my wrist really well.
An excellent pick for a modestly sized daily wearer
To summarize the specifications, the Black Bay 54 has a 37mm diameter, a 46mm lug-to-lug, and an 11.3mm thickness, including the domed crystal. Its bezel contains a black aluminum insert with silver-colored numerals and markers, and the black dial features a light sunburst pattern and gold-tone accents. As Thomas explained, the effect is subtle and adds a slight brown undertone, making it somewhat reminiscent of tropical dials.
Inside the case, you get the chronometer-certified caliber MT5400. This automatic movement beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 70-hour power reserve. Overall, the Black Bay 54 has become a popular pick among watch fans. It shows that there was indeed room for a smaller Black Bay model next to the massively popular Black Bay 58. At €4,120, this is also the most affordable of our five picks, making it a perfect closer for this list.
Final thoughts on our five favorite current Tudor watches
If you have made it this far, you will know that these five picks are just a small reflection of the great options that Tudor offers. Therefore, we also understand that you might not agree with all five picks. Please let us know in the comments section which of the currently available Tudor watches is your favorite. We look forward to seeing you next week for a new list.
