Fratello’s Top 5 Recent Watch Collaborations

Another Friday, another top 5. During and after last week’s Geneva Watch Days (GWD), we covered plenty of exciting releases here on Fratello. Some of the watches that always grab our attention during GWD are the crazy collaborations. Last year, we saw the incredible collaborative effort of Studio Underd0g and H. Moser & Cie. that had everyone talking during the event. This year, multiple collaborations stood out in Geneva. In today’s list, we’ll highlight our favorites.

Before we jump into our five picks, I should note that we decided not to limit ourselves to collaborations presented during Geneva Watch Days. We broadened the scope to recent releases so that we could pick some of the best unveiled this year. Collaborative efforts are always somewhat debated among watch fans. Plenty of enthusiasts prefer their watches as intended by a brand, without the outside influences. Collaborations often result in dressed-up watches with too much going on. But there are also plenty of examples that simply feel right. We have seen some amazing efforts that blend the style of both brands flawlessly.

Last year’s collaborative duo of watches from H. Moser & Cie. and Studio Underd0g

In addition, collaborative efforts are a display of creativity and, therefore, represent something different. Collaboration is often a platform for experimentation and trying new things, which we should celebrate.

Studio Underd0g × Fears Gimlet Brunswick 38

Our first pick was a watch that created quite a bit of hype earlier this year. When word got out that Studio Underd0g and Fears would release a special collaborative effort in very limited numbers for the British Watchmakers’ Day 2025, you could feel the buzz far beyond the British borders. The Studio Underd0g × Fears Gimlet Brunswick 38 is a great example of a well-executed creative collaboration. It combines the magic of Studio Underd0g’s dials with the stylish presence of the Fears Brunswick. As Ben explained, 200 pieces were available for £1,000 each, with 100 for the morning and 100 for the afternoon attendees. However, that number was far too low to satisfy all the people who wanted one.

We had the watch in for review, and it really was great. For the occasion, the two brands combined the 38mm stainless steel cushion case from the Fears Brunswick with a spectacular all-lume lime-green dial with floating numerals. Each dial started as a regular white one but received a lime-green gradient as a result of seven layers of Super-LumiNova. On top of the dial is a layer of transparent sapphire that holds the minute track and hour numerals as well as both companies’ logos. Completing the stylish composition are Fears’ signature skeletonized hands.

A different caliber for maximum visual impact

Inside the case, the brands chose the Sellita SW210-1 caliber, replacing the ETA/Peseux 7001 that usually powers the Brunswick. As a result, they could leave out the small seconds register to maximize the visual impact of the all-lume dial. The manual-winding caliber runs at a frequency of 28,800vph, features 19 jewels, and offers a 42-hour power reserve. It’s the perfect movement for this spectacular collaboration, which is, in turn, the perfect first pick for this list.

Louis Vuitton × Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6

Earlier this year, Robert-Jan had a chance to visit beautiful Thailand to witness Louis Vuitton’s latest stunning collaborative effort up close. During a three-day event, the brand announced its collaboration with watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. The result is the spectacular LVKV-02 GMR 6 that employs the work of artisans for a limited run of Haute Horlogerie magic. Only five pieces of the LVKV-02 GMR 6 will be produced, and each will come in a bespoke Louis Vuitton trunk. As Robert-Jan explained, the “R” in “GMR 6” designation refers to the power reserve indicator, and the “6” refers to the location of the home-time sub-dial on this dual-time watch.

Kari Voutilainen’s workshop in Saint-Sulpice, Switzerland, and Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps in Geneva left no stone unturned to create this stunning timepiece. The canvas is Louis Vuitton’s hand-finished Escale case, measuring 40.5mm in diameter and 12.54mm thick. It features a tantalum mid-case along with a bezel, case back, lugs, and crown made of platinum. On the case back is the engraving “Louis cruises with Kari” to emphasize this collaboration. The special case sets the stage for an even more special dial.

The colorful dial is a true work of art

The dial is a proper masterclass in the various techniques and trades of both brands’ ateliers. It starts with people at Voutilainen’s atelier decorating the center of the gold dial with traditional guilloché via antique 18th-century machines. Maryna Bossy, one of the artisans at La Fabrique des Arts, the Métiers d’Art workshop at La Fabrique du Temps, was responsible for the colorful painting on the dial. She used 28 colors for the hand-painted diamond-polished hour circle. It took her 32 hours to complete and eight hours of firing before the dials were finished.

In addition, the team at Voutilainen created the day/night indicator. The craftspeople first manually engraved the day/night disc and then decorated the sun and moon with saffron and blue enamel. Look closely, and you’ll also find the concealed shapes of Louis Vuitton’s monogram flower. The dial also features a special sign-off with the logo that combines the Louis Vuitton logo with the Voutilainen name.

The magic continues with the GMR 6 caliber

If you turn the watch around, you are greeted by a special version of the manual-winding Kari Voutilainen GMR 6 movement. The caliber uses two escapement wheels to provide a direct impulse to the balance through the jewels. Additionally, it features a large balance wheel, which Voutilainen crafted in-house. The 254-component caliber operates at 18,000vph and offers a 65-hour power reserve, which the wearer can track via the indicator at 12 on the dial.

But the most distinctive feature is the caliber’s decoration. Maryna Bossy also hand-painted the multicolored miniature painting on the cover of the mainspring barrel. The ratchet applique is made of white gold and contains 27 colors, giving the caliber a vibrant highlight. It also matches the Louis Vuitton case that each €550,000 watch comes in. This wonderful series of five timepieces is the next chapter in Louis Vuitton’s collaborative efforts that put the spotlight on the skills of the artisans involved. After the inaugural timepiece with Rexhep Rexhepi in 2023, this is a brilliant effort.

M.A.D.Editions × Yinka Ilori M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams”

The M.A.D.Editions × Yinka Ilori M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” is a collaborative effort unveiled just before Geneva Watch Days. Most of you will be familiar with the previous M.A.D.1 editions, but this new series of three watches takes color to the next level. For this trio, Max Büsser’s M.A.D.Editions teamed up with British-Nigerian artist and designer Yinka Ilori. His colorful and joyful energy led to a brilliant take on the M.A.D.1S, as Lex explained. The three versions of the M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” are called Sun, Nature, and Water and are limited to 400 pieces each.

The three watches have a steel 42 × 15mm case, which is slimmer than previous editions. This is the result of switching to a single time-telling cylinder for hours instead of two for hours and minutes. Overall, the case silhouette is similar to the previous case, making it the perfect canvas for the colorful spectacle on your wrist. It starts with the anodized titanium rotor, which takes center stage in yellow for Sun, green for Nature, and blue for Water.

A colorful statement

The rotor makes its rounds, hovering over the contrasting aluminum baseplate featuring a stamped wave-like texture. Encircling the watch’s sapphire crystal is a HyCeram bezel ring that adds even more color. Lastly, the textured rubber straps crank the colorful presence all the way up. If you don’t like vibrant colors, this watch is definitely not for you. But it would be too simple to just label it a colorful watch. The colors, textures, and font types are all part of Yinka Ilori’s playful world that is perfectly integrated into the already extravagant watch. 

Powering the M.A.D.Editions × Yinka Ilori M.A.D.1S “Grow Your Dreams” is a modified La Joux-Perret G101. It’s a step up from the Miyota movements used for previous M.A.D.1 models. The Swiss-made caliber offers 68 hours of power reserve and is slimmer than its Japanese predecessor. On top of that, it features more detailed finishing, adding to the visual attraction. But the super-fast-spinning rotor is the true centerpiece and makes wearing the M.A.D.1 watches so much fun. If you want one of these, unfortunately, you’re too late. The register window for the raffle has already closed, and I expect all available pieces to have sold for CHF 3,200.

Zenith Defy Chronograph USM

When I saw the images of the Zenith Defy Chronograph USM series, my first thought was, “The original Defy model with an El Primero chronograph caliber? What’s going on?” Granted, it’s definitely not the first time Zenith has equipped a Defy model with an El Primero movement, but it is something different for the vintage-inspired Defy Revival series. After letting it sink in, though, it made sense. A chronograph version of the classic A3690/3691 visually works well. But there is more to the story here.

This new series of four chronographs is a collaborative effort with USM Haller, a Swiss company famous for its modular furniture. Both the El Primero and USM’s furniture originated in the 1960s, making this a collaborative effort rooted in history. But it’s more than merely a look back because both brands are as relevant as ever today. The integration of USM Haller’s style is the dial colors, which are the same ones the Swiss brand uses for its furniture, as Lex explained. On top of that, you will see USM’s signature ball head used for the tip of the central chronograph hand. It’s a neat little detail that brought a smile to my face.

All the hallmarks of the 1960s Zenith models

Let’s go over the details quickly. The four watches have an angular 1960s-correct 37.3mm case. It is topped with the characteristic 14-sided bezel that helps give the classic Defy its character. On the right side, you will see the pump-style chronograph pushers that you can also find on the classic El Primero chronographs. As expected, this Defy comes with the classic ladder bracelet that Gay Frères designed exclusively for Zenith. This bracelet has graced many of the brand classics, including the El Primero A384, A385, and A386.

The four new watches come with dials in USM Green, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Gentian Blue. Each watch also has three silver sub-dials, all featuring an azurage pattern. The small hands within the sub-dials match the colors of each main dial. The central hour and minute hands have a filling of white lume. We even find a small luminous dot on the USM Haller ball joint on the central chronograph hand. The classically styled applied markers give the dial extra character, while the date window at 4:30 is another characteristic element of the El Primero chronographs.

Zenith El Primero 400 caliber

Inside the case of these four Defy Chronograph USM models, you will find the El Primero 400. The automatic column-wheel chronograph caliber operates at 36,000vph and offers 50 hours of power reserve. It is the perfect power train for these four collaborative efforts. I especially love the yellow version of the series. The Golden Yellow color is rich and immediately reminds me of the USM furniture I love as a design fan. On top of that, seeing the little ball head making the rounds when the chronograph is activated brings a smile to my face every time. Every one of the 60 pieces of each color will come in a special, modular USM Haller case, which is the cherry on top of this wonderful collaborative quartet. The Defy Chronograph USM retails for €12,000.

Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg

Our last pick for this list of collaborations is the wonderful Ressence Limited Art Watch Type 8 × Daniel Engelberg. It’s a duo of watches with wonderful dials courtesy of German painter and sculptor Daniel Engelberg. A few months ago, Ressence presented us with the Type 8 DE1 in pink and DE2 in turquoise. Limited to 40 pieces each, the watches are a colorful and playful take on Ressence’s Type 8. As Daan explained, Engelberg is known for his concentric circular forms and use of vibrant acrylics under a glossy layer of epoxy resin. This style perfectly matches the curvy, modern presence of the Ressence timepieces. While it’s far from the first collaborative effort we have seen from Ressence, I rank these two versions among the absolute best, if not the best. I do think they are that good.

The Type 8 is the Belgian brand’s most minimalist model. It has a 42.9mm titanium case with an 11mm profile, including the heavily domed sapphire crystal. The case is beautifully finished with a mix of polished and brushed surfaces and features hidden lugs connecting the strap. Underneath the sapphire crystal, the domed titanium dials display the hours and minutes, and let you guess the seconds. The internal chapter ring helps you read the time properly. On one version, it is a nice contrasting pink, while on the other, the ring blends in more with the central dial. I love the pink model because it uses a surprising combination of colors that works wonderfully well, especially with the powdery pink rubber strap.

The dials complement the Type 8 perfectly

Ressence uses the familiar, highly modified ETA 2892 base caliber inside the lightweight case. The minute axle of the movement drives the patented Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) underneath the dial, which rotates the hour and minute display. The caliber operates at 28,800vph and holds a power reserve of 36 hours. As we know from other Ressence watches, the wearer can wind and set the movement with the rotating case back, which functions as a crown.

But Engelsberg’s dials are the true star of the show, of course. The wonderful, lively colors and concentric rings make the dials come to life. They also complement the movement and the style of the Ressence Type 8 perfectly. The brand announced the Ressence Type 8 DE1 and DE2 in June, and each cost CHF 19,000 (ex. taxes). With a limited production of 40 pieces per colorway, I would not be surprised if all 80 watches have sold out by now. For me, this is another standout release from Ressence and the perfect fifth and final pick for this list.

Final thoughts on our five favorite recent collaborations

There you have it — our five favorite recent watch collaborations. As already mentioned, they serve as great evidence of the creativity that sparks special efforts between two parties. Because of this, they represent so much more than just additional variations of existing models. If the stories behind the designs resonate with you, these watches can also hold great personal relevance. In such cases, these collaborative efforts are some of the best watches you can buy nowadays. Please let us know what your favorite recent collaboration was in the comments section. We will see you next week for another Top 5!