Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Datejust Models With Exotic Dials
This week’s Top 5 list is a follow-up to last week’s list. You seemed to enjoy the article about some of the stunning, exotic dials that Rolex has used for its flagship model, the Day-Date. This week, we will look at some of the exotic dials that the Genevan brand has used for the Datejust. There is an overlap, as some of you know, because Rolex used some dials for both models. So you could consider this a part two. Then again, while the Day-Date has long been Rolex’s flagship watch, the Datejust is the more mundane, lower-level offering. Still, as you will see, that didn’t keep Rolex from using some of the most interesting dials for the Datejust.
Before we get into the list, it is good to point out that the different kinds of dials were not necessarily available for every model. As you will find out, the exotic stone dials were only used for the gold Datejusts. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t many great special dial variations for the stainless steel models. On top of that, these steel versions are also far more interesting if you, like most of us, do not have unlimited money to spend on a Datejust. As always, we’ve limited this list to five picks, which is not a large enough number to cover all the great options. But let’s look at our five favorite Datejusts with exotic dials that should give you a good idea of what’s out there.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 1601/8 with a tiger eye dial
Let’s kick things off with a dial that I only briefly mentioned in last week’s list as a great stone-dial option. The tiger eye dials are famous among Rolex fans and have this distinct ’70s feel that makes them stand out immediately. If you don’t like that ’70s vibe, a brown, striped tiger eye dial is probably not for you. Some of us here at Fratello adore this look, including Robert-Jan and yours truly. For us, there’s something magical about the combination of yellow gold and tiger eye.
Image: Bulang & Sons
The example we picked for this list is a Rolex Datejust ref. 1601/8. The 1601 was produced from 1959 until 1977, and the standard versions had a 36mm case combined with a pie-pan dial. Of course, that wasn’t the case for the stone dials.
Image: Bulang & Sons
In addition, the stone dials eschewed the hour and minute markers to create a super clean look. The Datejust 1601 is also the reference that came with a fluted bezel in precious metal as standard. It included a white gold bezel for the stainless steel versions, but for the yellow gold 1601/8, it changed to yellow gold to match the case and bracelet material.
Image: Bulang & Sons
A rare and expensive Rolex Datejust
Rolex used two calibers for the ref. 1601 during its production run. The first was the caliber 1565, which was replaced by the 1575 movement in 1965. The latter increased the operation frequency from 18,000vph to 19,800vph. That is also the caliber that you will find in the majority of the models with tiger eye dials. When it comes to prices, as you’d expect, these watches are not cheap. Typically, a Datejust with a tiger eye dial starts a little over €20K, and prices can easily move up to €35K depending on the condition. But that will buy you one of the most spectacular Datejusts ever made.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
Rolex Datejust ref. 16019 with a burl wood dial
My absolute favorite pick on this list is this magnificent Datejust ref. 16019 with a burl wood dial. The dial is one of the famous Rolex wooden dials with a unique look and presence. Last week, we featured a white gold Datejust with a birch wood dial that looks nothing short of stunning. The combination of white gold with that lighter wood was also a favorite of most commenters who read the article. For this week, we found a Datejust variation that also looks spectacular, is extremely rare, and was sold by Amsterdam Vintage Watches.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
The ref. 16019 was part of the updated Rolex Datejust ref. 160xx series that succeeded the four-digit 16xx series in 1977 and stayed in production until 1988. The biggest updates came in the form of a sapphire crystal and the new quickset-date caliber 3035. The latter makes setting the watch much easier, which is why this series of Datejust models is great if you are looking for a lovely vintage Datejust with modern-day practicality. Having said that, this series also saw the departure of pie-pan dials for the regular models. However, as you will understand, that doesn’t affect the wooden dials.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
This is as rare as a Rolex Datejust gets
Before we get into the stunning dial, the canvas is not just any Datejust but, specifically, a white gold one. If you are a dedicated Rolex fan, you know that white gold Datejusts are very rare. While rose gold and yellow gold Datejust models are not all that uncommon, especially when it comes to early references, the white gold models have always been. What we get with this ref. 16019 is a white gold Datejust with a matching Oyster bracelet with polished center links. Most of the gold Datejusts came with a Jubilee bracelet, so to see this already rare white gold version on an Oyster bracelet makes it even more special.
Image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
The white gold exterior is the perfect canvas for the burl wood dial that steals the show. The combination of the dark brown color and the texture gives it a unique look. But that is not where it ends. I also adore the dial design because the minute and hour markers are equally long. This creates a completely different feel from the regular Datejust, and I greatly prefer it. I could go on for some time and explain why I love this special Datejust, but you probably get the point. Finding one of these Datejusts is almost impossible, and you can expect to see a price around €90K–100K if you do.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 1601 with a linen dial
Next up is the famous Datejust with a linen dial. This dial style was used for multiple generations of Datejust models. We picked the ref. 1601 because it fits the classic look of the linen dials perfectly. If you are a Rolex fan, you are familiar with these special dials.
Image: Bulang & Sons
They are called “linen dials” due to the subtle crosshatch pattern that mimics fine textile weaving, creating a very classic look. To be honest, I am not the biggest fan, but many of my Fratello colleagues love a good linen dial.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Predominantly, you will find linen dials in the Datejust ref. 16xx and follow-up ref. 160xx series. But Rolex famously also used the linen dial for the Day-Date. When it comes to colors, you will mostly find the silver version you see in the pictures.
Image: Bulang & Sons
But Rolex also used a darker gray linen dial for the Datejust that I prefer. For the Day-Date, the linen dial in gold is the most common. Overall, these linen dials are quite easy to find and do not cost more than regular dials. Expect to see prices starting at roughly €4K and moving up to €6K.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 1601/8 with a malachite dial
Another exotic stone that Rolex used for dials in its gold Datejust models was malachite. These famous green dials also fit that ’70s vibe perfectly, like the tiger eye dials. It comes as no surprise that these dials are mostly found in the yellow gold ref. 1601/8 Datejusts from the 1970s.
Image: Bulang & Sons
In all honesty, I think they match these green malachite dials the best. Unlike the white gold Datejust that we discussed earlier, the ref. 1601/8 in the pictures came with a 36mm yellow gold case and a yellow gold Jubilee bracelet. While I like the look of the Oyster bracelet on the white gold version, the Jubilee bracelet suits the yellow gold Datejust better.
Image: Bulang & Sons
As with all of the classic stone dials, the green malachite versions feature no hour markers or minute track, making the stone the center of attention. The malachite is only contrasted by the gold printing, the date window with its Cyclops magnifier, the applied Rolex logo, and the hands hovering over the dial.
Image: Bulang & Sons
It creates a brilliant classic Datejust with an exotic stone dial that is not hard to find but will cost you significant cash. Expect to see prices between €40K and €80K, which is a ridiculous range. Regardless, you need deep pockets for this classic ref. 1601/8.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Rolex Datejust ref. 16014 with a tapestry dial
We’ll close this list out with another textured dial in the same vein as the linen dials we highlighted earlier. A Rolex Datejust with a tapestry dial is another special and great-looking option. The vintage vibes are less prevalent than on the linen dials, which is why I prefer the tapestry versions.
Image: Bulang & Sons
We picked two Datejust ref. 16014 models with tapestry dials in different colors. The first is a gray version that looks nice and monochromatic. I have to say that it is a great and tempting offer that I would consider when buying a Datejust.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Another lovely option is the more obvious silver tapestry dial. It is a little less outspoken and, consequently, a bit more refined. I prefer the darker color as it fits the color of the stainless steel material of the case and the Jubilee bracelet nicely.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Both are ref. 16014 models with fluted white gold bezels. To complete the look, the Jubilee bracelet is the only way to go in my book. It makes this the perfect fifth and last entry for this list. You can usually find these tapestry-dial versions available for €4.5K–6.5K.
Image: Bulang & Sons
Final thoughts on our top five Rolex Datejust models with exotic dials
There you have it — our list of the top five Rolex Datejust models with special dials. Of course, like last week, we left out some great options, like the Jubilee dials, the Buckley dials, the palm-leaf dials, and the meteorite dials. But there is only room for five watches, so we had to make some hard choices. Let these five be the inspiration to share your favorite Datejust models with exotic dials in the comments section. We will see you next week for another list!
Header image: Amsterdam Vintage Watches
